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Data is not an opinion. You disagree with data. You disagree with experts. You disagree with scholars. You're just disagreeable. Sir you have a bad habit of thinking that saying a thing is true, makes it true. Especially if you're the one saying it. I do not doubt you have knowledge and experience. I doubt your application. You seem to believe that you are only relevant if you know something someone else doesn't. Try sharing plainly instead of "I know something you don't know" in a sing song like a child hiding behind IP crap to withhold it.

Make sure the rear shocks won’t bottom out. i suspect you’ll be fine but check that.

IGNORE..... if you don't want constructive criticism that's up to you not to post misleading BS to the readers here.

OK Marty you are proving what I am sharing as a fact. The fresh oil has higher levels of ADDITIVES unactivated 800,311,23 first three lines as particle agglomeration. Once activated drops to 77,29,2 when heat cycled. Not filtered. I made a career by being on a island but not from or with other scientists, just internet bloviators like you my friend. By the way you owe me lunch, when and where do you want to meet us for some good Illinois hospitality? Lee

You keep posting your opinion vs science. I just can't help myself to try share truth vs your opinion there internet warrior. WOOF

Since I did not get any feedback, here is what I did... Warm up engine. Also, I have the factory performance upgrade. Remove MAS from air intake duct (leave it plugged in), wrap in plastic bag (keep plastic away from the element or it will melt the bag and ruin it) and move to front lower air box so it doesn’t move around. Remove air filter as you spray the cleaner directly into the air intake. Set up your pedal assist device, start engine. It will not want to idle or be very rough. Push pedal to about 2K RPM and set pedal assist device. When the engine is nice and steady at the desired RPM, start spraying cleaner into the air intake in bursts of 3 or 4 seconds. Continue until the spray can is empty. You may need to readjust the pedal assist device to maintain 2 to 2.5 K RPM, I did not have to. When the can is empty, rev engine three times not to exceed 3.5 K RPM. Let engine idle or as close as possible for one minute then shut off. Carefully clean out air box, reinstall filter and MAS. Check all connections then let engine heat soak for about an hour. Then, go for a good drive and everything should be okay, but maybe still a little rough. Next day drove it again so I could change the oil and it ran just fine. I would recommend changing the oil and filter after. If a check engine lite is set, just turn it off with a scanner. My truck did not set a DTC.

Checking fuses was to be my next step. Now that you mention it, collision avoidance isn't working either. I don't know about lane departure. To tell you the truth, I've been so disgusted with the cruise control business that I haven't paid much attention to anything else.

I opened a case with Chevrolet Customer Care. I refused to take back to same dealership so I will work with a different one and see what happens. I appreciate all of the advice and it is cool to connect with other Chevy drivers!

Okay Thank You fellas for all the above replies !! 'm assuming MSRP that is on the Factory Window sticker includes the base model and then the options . #1 Does not include the price of whatever the dealer adds or does to the truck once its on the their lot which would be added to the MRSP . Am I correct ? #2 The dealer also adds PDI and freight etc . Am I correct ? #3 So you add #1 and #2 and they tack that on to the MRSP ? #4 So that's the total price in the dealers eyes ? I look at that total price and try asking for 3K to 5 K off of that or just off the original MRSP ? Or I say what is your out the door price on this truck, taxes and everything all in . Then I say nope can do it and ask for 3K to 5K off ? Thanks for your patience fellas as its a big purchase for us and we have been out of this new truck game for many years This will be the last truck I buy as I will probably be done driving in 10 years

(digging up an older thread here) This is likely not news to anyone that’s been searching, but the latest information I have (this time from East Coast Gear Supply in NC) is that re-gearing options are still not available for the front differential in these trucks. The reason cited was once again related to how the OEM ring gear is attached to the carrier (I’ll avoid using the term “welded” this time, though I’ve now heard it described that way from multiple sources). If anyone has had better luck, do chime in. 2022 Limited AT4 here, with SU5 GM front axle / SU7 AAM rear axle.

It use to be that GM customer service monitored this site. Evidently they don't anymore. I agree with 64BAwagon. Get customer service in the loop. As far as problems, I've had my 2023 SLT X31 diesel for just over 8 months and really haven't had any major problems. There is one that I can't figure out. I hear a noise that sounds like a small rock hitting the windshield or like a plastic water bottle popping. It's always on the passenger front door area. There are no indications of any road damage anywhere. It's not frequent enough to be annoying, but it's there. Other than that, I'm pleased with the truck. I have contact with the dealer for oil change. Once those freebies are used up. I'll use a local tire shop for service. Good luck.

Upgraded my 2015 Silverado WT with a Z71 Cluster. The unit works great but does not show the mileage as I expected and have read. I took it to the dealer to get it programmed and was told they could only program a cluster within the same trim level. Meaning I would have to get a WT trim cluster. What is my work around to make this work?

Got almost 50k on the OEM BF's 275/60R20. Looking at going with the Michelin Defender LTX M/S2. They also have 285/55R20 and 305/50R20 that technically could fit on the 9" OEM SLT wheel. I am not lifted, has the x31 package if that makes any difference. Anyone used either of those bigger sizes? From what I was finding on the forum I think 285 would be ok but 305 may rub. Anyone tried those sizes without a lift? Thanks

If the rain can hold off, I'm going to replace the injectors today. I may not finish until tomorrow, I'm an old man now and work much slower! Pulling that intake with a engine that is set back so far, is a real challenge for me. Afterwards I'll post how everything turned out. Meanwhile, fingers crossed.

I talked with AMSOIL and Red Line both directly about filtering out additives. Both disagree with you. Most are in solution and those that are not, are submicron suspensions. In fact, I spent quite some time on this with Red Line when I bought my 2 micron AMSOIL bypass system and directly about the moly in Red Line Oil. Oh, looky-see there. The FACTS disagree with you. Ultra Clean 13/12/8 oil with the additive package intact. In fact, very close to the VOA. Lord, wear metals showing How can this be? The ISO test starts at 2 microns. The GM Wear Study disagrees with you. Machinery Lubrication disagrees. Oil Labs disagree. Ed Law/Total Seal disagrees. Fact is, you're on an island on this. You need a different hobby that following me like a puppy. Now back in the IGNORNE box with you. I opened this single post on a gut feel and guess what...... You did not disappoint.

Test the wiring for the 1-2 and 2-3 shift solenoids. The 1-2 solenoid is a light green wire, the pin at the PCM is pin 48 in connector C2 (green connector) and at the transmission its pin A in the round transmission connector. The 2-3 solenoid is a yellow wire with a black stripe. Pin at the PCM is pin 47 in connector C2 (green connector) and at the transmission its pin B. Check for power and check terminal tension and corrosion. Also, you have a 5.3 engine not a 5.7.

I have a 2016 2500 Silverado high country. Im looking to trade the center console for a bench seat if anything is interested let me know! I live in Cali

I replaced my stock horn for a MotoHorn Dual Track hoping it would be louder than stock... it isn't. Sounds the exact same. So if you are looking for louder, don't go MotoHorn Dual Track. That being said, I do want to try their MotoHorn (trumpet style setup). www.motohorn.com

Torque converter has likely been damaging the pump this whole time and wiped the fluid pump out. Time for a rebuild or replacement.

Was driving home the other day and my transmission completely stop responding. Was able to get pulled over and checked the trans temp. It was at 215'. I sat for about 45 minutes until it got back down to 185. Was able to limp it home by slowly getting up to speed and then coasting as long as I could. It made it the last 20 minutes although it was slipping nad temps rose back up to 195. The fluid is burnt it is dark brown and you can smell it just standing next to the truck. I don't see metal in the fluid on the dipstick so, I am hoping it may just be as simple as a fluid and filter change but fear it is probably the TQ or worse the whole shabang. Transmissions are my achilles so any help in diagnosing would be greatly appreciated. I am on a budget as well. Also, I do plan on installing the temp bypass as well as a larger cooler along with whatever repairs need to be made.

Thanks for confirming this - I was going to do the swap today but I thought I ran into needing UCAs too... looks like I do not I am going to leave the rear end stock (RST) height and just end up level (I think) by installing the DSSV on all 4 corners, keeping stock UCAs too.

I have 2003 gmc sierra 4x4 5.7 liter vortex engine with 4L60 transmission. I have a PO751 code. 1st gear and lockout gear works only at first start up. Once driven an few miles I loose 1st and overdrive. I've replaced with a rebuild transmission and problem reoccurring and had that one rebuilt and and replaced PCM. Code and symptoms are back. Any suggestions???

Any luck performing alternator upgrade?