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  2. Yeah I noticed this too....loved the feature but would never pay for it
  3. GrumpyGhost Rusty 1999 GMC Sierra Z71 Ongoing build!

    So I decided to test a theory I've had tonight, my door locks no longer will lock with the power locks, so for last few years ive had to lock my truck manually. They did still have enough juice to unlock so it didn't bother me to much. In order to replace the door lock actuator with a vehicle that has vats, keyless entry, and so on, you have to replace the entire door latch assembly which costs like $200! Crazy!! I decided that there has to be a way to just swap out the motor as it is only thing wrong with my current ones and i wanted to try just buying a cheap door lock actuator from Amazon for $30. I took tons of photos but I can only post 9 at a time so I skimmed them down to major parts of the parts swap. Basically I broke open the original door lock actuator after removing the door panel and entire door latch assembly from my truck to remove the locking mechanism from the latch. In the photos the original part is all black and the new one I bought has a white motor. The only thing I had to do was remove the top covers from both door lock actuators and swap them over. But I ran into a snag. There is a sensor that is plastic welded onto the outside that is for unlocking the door with a key and not setting off the alarm. Also I should note I only did this on the passenger side as a test. My thinking was that if it works I won't have to reach over to lock the door anymore before exiting my truck. To remove the sensor from the old actuator cover I grabbed my soldering iron and melted the plastic. Then I saw there were no holes for the sensors connectors to go through on the new cover, so I melted some holes with the soldering iron and made it work. Then broke off some plastic from old actuator and melted the sensor onto the new cover. I then hot glued the new cover onto the original actuator mechanism followed by some melting of corners with soldering iron for good measure. I bolted it back into the door latch mechanism and reinstalled. So in my very messy late night essay of a write up I did here, the outcome was only halfway successful. The door lock functions great with the key fob, and I can definitely tell it has plenty of power as my driver side door lock actuator sounds tired compared to the new one. The only problem I ran into is that I still have to lock the dang door manually because I've had an issue where my truck thinks a door is open and automatically unlocks the doors if I push the lock button with key fob. My interior lights are also on constantly and I've just been using the dome override for about 5 years now ha-ha. Basically if you want to save $170 dollars, buy the crap cheap door lock actuator and swap over the new motor to the old mechanism. Now I just have to get my wiring issue figured out so I can lock my truck with the key fob. Also still need to order the driver side and do the same mod. This was easier than you think, it took me a couple hours but I didn't have a back up and if I broke something, it would have been very hard to close my door lol I seen other people cut off the door ajar part and superglue it onto the new lock door actuator, but I didn't like that idea and have never seen someone do it the way I just did. Also I may have to buy a new door latch assembly for my driver side anyhow as I'm pretty sure it is the one causing my interior lights to stay on, as I said before, the driver door was almost ripped off the truck and I dragged it along before actually fixing it and I'm pretty sure it wore out or broke the mechanism. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
  4. It's a truck, I let it get dirty and wash monthly (wax yearly). Tyler
  5. One from my trip... The rest from the trails are too big to load. A few from white rim, alpine loop and other places. Tyler
  6. SAME problem. I should have invested in clear bra when I bought it. But I was too busy recovering from the sticker price. All stock now but looking at a level and 275/60’s come Christmas time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Did you dust it off before each photo? That is way to clean to have been down a dirt road, this is a truck that has been down a dirt road... BTW, you might want to cover your license plate or someone might steal your identity and murder your family Tyler
  8. I just bought a 2017 Sierra elevation. No issues yet. Seems pretty dam smooth. But found out about the Chevy shake after getting the truck. Then stumbled into this video. Would explain why some have a little less shaking after drive shaft replacement or tire balance ect, but never have it fully going away or reoccurring. Plus having axles that far out would cause a lot of other excessive ware.
  9. Have you tried searching? Question has been covered numerous times... Tyler
  10. has any one tried the polyurethane dash kits like B&I or Dash Kits Specialists ? wondered about the quality and if they hold up good after being on the vehicle for a while
  11. BTW, I have been following this thread since page 1, don't waste your time trying to figure this out. Forget the tricks tried by GM or dealers. If you find one with issues, it will not change. On the other hand, if you find one without issues, it may not change.
  12. here is the rear of my leaf spring, driver side. see how there is no gap
  13. For those of you that tried the screen/magnet removal trick and didn't have it work, I also tried this, and it didn't work at first. No matter what orientation I put the phone in, with the charging module unscrewed from the armrest with direct phone to back of charger contact, nothing would trigger charging on the phone or the lightning bolt on the truck screen. However, when I unplugged the white connector from module for a few seconds, and plugged it back in, it immediately began to work! I had my iPhone X resting on the black charger surface when I plugged it back in, and have had no issues since. It works in the standard rubber tray configuration, right side up, and upside down. It works after i turn off the ignition and start it back up. So if it didn't work the first time for you, try unplugging it, then plugging it back in (with the phone on the charger while you do it). I don't know if the phone laying on the charger made any difference, but that's how it started working for me! It even works well with the official Apple iPhone X Silicone case, which is what I am now using with it. I'm not exactly sure what the screen with the magnet does. I can imagine the magnet is to help center devices with magnets so it orients correctly with the charging coil. My guess with the screen with the grid is perhaps it's some kind of feedback power control method? The grid has 4 contacts of where it connects to the PCB. The two outer ones make a loop around the screen, whereas the two middle contacts are just a short with each other. Perhaps it senses exactly how much induction is coming out of the coil? Maybe the side effect of having this screen is that it blocks too much of the induction? Again, this is just pure speculation on my part.
  14. Today
  15. has anyone tried to have this feature added to 14s without the z71 option?
  16. it will be super tight and proably rub, get a leveling kit. im on stock 17" wheels and running 285 70 17 with no issues at all with no lift or level... i think i could have easily gone 295 70 17
  17. Well, you know what to look for, so you're ahead of the game. I would keep looking. Depending on the year, one with low mileage will be suspect.
  18. also, look at your rim width,.its a 9" wide rim...quick google search 235 will just fit but....ehhh i dunno. and as you go with a thinner tire the sidewall is a % so the overall tire size gets smaller. Rim width (inch) Min. tire width (mm) Ideal tire width (mm) 9,0 235 245 or 255
  19. Marv88 2016 Silverado LS Regular Cab 5.3L

    Don't know why I put .75 but I'm going to be searching for some good deals on Black Friday for some good speakers. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
  20. in theory, yes a skinnier tire will cut through snow better than a wide one, think of how a tire can hydroplane. so with that said, you should run a skinny tire if you are somewhere that rains a lot... imo get a better set of tires for all year round. i had the stock duellers on for 2 winters and i hated them and they were 255 70 17. i may not have much time on my duratracs yet but so far they have seen mud, white out snow storms, ice, and rainstorms all in about 3 weeks and 1500km...they grip and go in all conditions. check out the duratracs, K02 and a couple other snow rated AT tires...i personally picked duratracs because i know 3 people currently running them, another buddy had them and they all are hard on their trucks. great tread life and they run them all 4 seasons. just IMO..
  21. yea I have passed on that particular vehicle. Just not sure if I should continue looking at them or potentially move to another brand or just hang on to what my wife currently drives until a redesign occurs.
  22. All don't have it, mine doesn't. But the one you are looking at does so this "should" be a no-brainer for you. Recommend you pass-up this truck.
  23. Those really are nice. They really work and seem to be out of the way, I have a cap so I never use these for steps. These with my side mirror lights would turn night to day. Good functional improvement.
  24. Given that I have my other bases covered with a truck and a midsize car already I think that I would get a fully loaded ZL1 Camaro Convertable in red with a black top......
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