Installed Drop Shackles On Silverado

[High Plains Drifter]

As we all know, the Silverado comes from the factory with the rear of the truck up in the air to accomodate the weight of a heavy payload in the bed. Some owners don't care for the look of this cant and modify the truck so as to give it a level appearance. One option is to lift the front by spacers and other means. Another solution is to lower the rear a few inches by installing new rear leaf spring shackles.

 

I decided to lower the rear and installed some drop shackles from Belltech on my 2008 Chevrolet Silverado. Here's a how-to guide as I experienced. Time for installation is a few hours, at least, that is what it took me. I took my time and looked things over deliberately as I progressed.

 

A couple of things to be aware of. The right tools always make the job easier. An air ratchet makes it even easier. Some piddly ratchet and cheap socket will have you cursing from busting your knuckles. Also, it would have been nice if GM powdercoated the frame instead of the tar they applied at the factory. Have some GOJO or similar hand degreaser/cleaner available to clean your hands from time to time. Your hands will get black working around the frame.

 

What you'll need:

 

Drop Shackle Kit. (I used the 4601 Belltech Kit)

13/16" deep well socket

Ratchet (preferably 3/8 or 1/2)

13/16" socket or boxed end wrench

18 mm socket and long extension

Heavy duty floor jack

Two jack stands

Some WD-40 (if necessary, I didn't need any)

 

You'll re-use four shackle bolts from stock shackles.

----------------------------------------------------

 

4601 Belltech Rear Lowering Shackle Kit. I didn't need the spacers.

 

 

Stock rear shackle.

 

 

Set the parking brake, be sure it's in "Park", and chock the front wheels fore and aft. Slide the jack under the rear differential and raise the rear until you can slide the jack stands under the frame in front of the forward attachment point of the leaf spring. I set the jack stands at the highest level. Now, lower the hydraulic jack.

 

 

 

Using a 3/16" deep well and boxed end wrench, remove the upper and lower nuts on both sides.

 

 

You must remove the trailer hitch (if you have one) otherwise the bolt will not be able to slide out.

 

 

There are eight (8) total bolts you have to remove that hold the trailer hitch.

Using a 3/16" deep well socket, remove the three bolts on each side of the hitch (6).

You'll need the boxed end wrench to hold the top of the bolt above the frame for four of them.

The other two have a nut welded to the frame.

You do not have to remove the tire.

 

 

Now, before removing these two bolts, be sure that you have a way of lowering the hitch down.

Get your body parts ready, a leg here, an arm there...

Otherwise it will drop on top of you. It's heavy so be prepared to lower it.

Remove these two bolts (they've got a welded nut, no box end wrench necessary.

 

 

You can now remove the bottom shackle bolt on each side.

 

 

Now for the top bolt. Uh-oh. That top bolt won't come out. Not to worry.

 

 

Loosen the four rear bolts that fasten the frame to the bed. I loosened it 1"

 

 

Raise the hydraulic jack under the differential again. Raise the jack stands higher if you can.

Raise it until the top bolt clears the frame.

Remove upper shackle bolts. You'll have to get your hand above the frame to do this.

Remove stock shackles on both sides.

 

 

 

Replace shackles with new shackles. I used the top holes to get 2" lower.

Lower jack until bottom of shackle is near holes. You may have push spring end up a bit to install lower bolts.

Tighten bolts only until they're close, don't snug yet.

 

 

Remove jack stands and lower the jack all the way. Tighten four shackle bolts. Tighten four frame bolts.

Test drive.

 

 

Place jack back under differential and raise, insert jack stands.

Install trailer hitch. Snug up bolts again and check in a week, tighten if necessary.

Level truck!

[Daryl Z71]

Looks Good! Your truck is really clean lookin.

[High Plains Drifter]

Thanks, Daryl. I like yours as well.

[L76PWRD]

The spacers are to remove the rear lift blocks to drop it 3 inches in the rear.

[Vmax08]

High Plains Drifter

Do the instructions say to install the shackles in that direction? Can they be turned 180`with the surface with the two holes facing the front of the truck and still fit? The reason I ask is it looks like road dirt would accumulate at the bottom of the shackle above the bolt. I have a used set I haven't installed yet on my 2008 and live where they use salt on the roads in the winter.

Nice writeup also!!

[Baja 252]

Great write -up, thanks for taking the time to post it. I did this a few months ago to get my new truck to sit level. As he said, be sure to test drive before you put the hitch back on be sure it's the height you want. I started with the same holes as you used, but it was a little too low so I raised it up one hole.

 

I use my truck with light loads most of the time, but when I do tow it would be nice to have some air bags to assist and raise the rear end back to level. Anyone do this?

[High Plains Drifter]

V-Max,

 

That's the way it was pictured in the instructions. I know, it seems they should be the other way because that's the way the stock ones are.

 

[High Plains Drifter]

As L76PWRD mentioned, the spacers are to lower it one more inch.

 

 

 

 

 

[nickwesttime]

As L76PWRD mentioned, the spacers are to lower it one more inch.

 

hey high drifter, very nice write up , and the pictures helped alot... i put those same shackles on my 2004 silverado 1500, it didnt come with the spacers for the UBOLTS.... do you know where i could get those or what eles i could use??

 

 

 

[430HP70]

bringing it back to the top, but the kit is actually "6401", not "4601" as posted. i also removed the 6 bolts from the hitch towards the rear and only loosened the front two. this allowed the hitch to swing down without needing to pull it out completely. much easier for one guy.

 

when i started with my 305/50/20s, my back was at 39 1/4 and the front at 37 1/4. after the kit AND removing the blocks from under the springs (which did not need the spacers for the u bolts on my 11), the back and front were both level, so i dont think its a 3 inch drop. i think im going to make my own spacer or mill down the RC spacer to raise the front up one inch. currently my tires rub at almost full lock with my 0 offset wheels. a -12 would probably allow clearance with the stock front height, but my wheels dont.

 

thanks for the write up. between that and crawling under to form a plan, it was about a 45 minute job, and that included drilling the welding slag out of the hole in the belltech shackle.

 

Tim

[bigred74k20]

Great instructions! Just lowered the rear 2" on my 2008 GMC Sierra 3500HD

[07cortita]

Hey fellas, I just installed some shackles on my '07 and failed to measure the stock height before the install. Does anyone know what the stock height is on one of these. Mine is a short bed regular cab. After the shackles, it sits at 35.5' in the front and 38" in the back.(ground to wheel well) Doesn't seem level to me but it may be because I figured two inches would level it. I may have to remove the spacer to drop it one more inch. Any help is appreciated.

[07cortita]

Great write up Drifter, I wish I could see the pictures with it. Thanks for posting it.

[John in MN.]

where are the images? Going to do a 2013 2500HD also a 2" drop in front. Wife won't need hoist anymore.John

[Gurrzt]

How then do you readjust the pinion angle back to where it should be ?