2002 Sierra Brake Job

Slamllc · February 14, 2008

I have a 2002 GMC Sierra 3500 cab and chassis 4x4 (dual wheel) which is in need of rotors and pads on all four corners. I have never worked on 2500 or 3500 brakes before and know they are different then 1500 brakes. I have changed rotors and pads many times on cars and 1500 trucks. I need to know what I am getting into and what I need to get this done. What special tools are required? Any help would be appreciated.

2000DV4.8 · February 14, 2008

I have a 2002 GMC Sierra 3500 cab and chassis 4x4 (dual wheel) which is in need of rotors and pads on all four corners. I have never worked on 2500 or 3500 brakes before and know they are different then 1500 brakes. I have changed rotors and pads many times on cars and 1500 trucks. I need to know what I am getting into and what I need to get this done. What special tools are required? Any help would be appreciated.

I can't help you with your question, but I would suggest getting a repair manual by either Haynes, or Chilton. They're well worth the money. (about $10)

Also do a search on this site, and you should be able to find something.

Slamllc · February 14, 2008

I have looked for those manuals but they do not cover HD vehicles or 3500 vehicles. Anyone know where I could get a manual that would cover the one ton dual wheel truck?

wages999 · February 15, 2008

Don't know much about the dually's, but when my brother had to change the back rotors on his 2002 2500HD, all the auto parts stores needed to know which brake system he had. Apparently there were two types of rotors of the back of the 2500HD's. Every place he called said they didn't have them in stock. Finally found them at an Autozone and when he got them they were wrong rotors. The local NAPA wanted a really high price, but a guy there said to go to a Chevy dealer because they were cheaper there. They were about $30, each, cheaper than NAPA. If you are keeping the brakes stock, it could save you some money to shop around.

cbxeric · February 15, 2008

Alldata

Fortune50 · February 19, 2008

I have a 2002 GMC Sierra 3500 cab and chassis 4x4 (dual wheel) which is in need of rotors and pads on all four corners. I have never worked on 2500 or 3500 brakes before and know they are different then 1500 brakes. I have changed rotors and pads many times on cars and 1500 trucks. I need to know what I am getting into and what I need to get this done. What special tools are required? Any help would be appreciated.

The fronts are pretty straight forward, same as the 1500s, although your 3500 rotors may have provisions for installing jack screws to force a rusted rotor off the hub while the 1500's may not have this provision.

The rears are more involved (as you'd expect) and will need a wheel bearing nut wrench J 2222-C to remove the rather large (and funky looking) wheel bearing adjusting nut and you will need a hydraulic press to separate the rotor from the hub (by pressing off the lugnut studs).

To begin, you have to remove the brake caliper & it's bracket as an assembly and then you can take it apart to replace the pads.

To get the rear rotors off, you start by removing the axle shafts. This is done by removing the axle shaft flange cover bolts and then pulling out the axle, may have to tap on it lightly to loosen it. May want to get gaskets for those flange covers in case the originals are destroyed. Then you can remove the rotor/hub assembly by first removing the hub bearing adjuster nut's retaining ring and the little locking key in the slot inside the flange opening where the adjuster nut is located. Then use the special tool mentioned above to remove the adjuster nut itself and now the rotor/hub can come off. To get the rotor off the hub you need to use a hydraulic press to pop the wheel studs off from the rotor so that it'll separate from the hub.

Some tightening specs (rear brakes):

Caliper bolts to bracket: use red loctite #272 & tighten to 80 lb ft.

Caliper bracket bolts to differential: 221 lb ft (use #272 red loctite)

Axle flange bolts: 148 lb ft.

Hub bearing adjuster nut to 52 lb ft. (using the special tool mentioned) and then turn it back to nearest locking key slot

Front wheel lugnuts: 140 lb ft

Rear wheel lugnuts (dually): 175 lb ft.

You may want to drain out the rear diff so that you don't lose any fluid (especially if it's pretty clean) before removing the axles. Also, the spindle the rotor/hub slides onto should be greased w/ a high melting point EP (extreme pressure) bearing lubricant.

Hope this gives you and idea of what's involved...BTW this info comes from my '01 GM truck service manual.

vinster01 · February 20, 2008

While you have the axles out and rotors off you should take out the E-Brake pivot lever. This is where a lot of E-Brake problems originate from in the snow belt area; they get rusty and tight- then they won't release the e-brake and ruin the shoes. Take them out, lube them thoroughly, work them back & forth a bunch of times and make sure they move freely.

Green Lawns Plus · November 20, 2009

I have a 2002 GMC Sierra 3500 cab and chassis 4x4 (dual wheel) which is in need of rotors and pads on all four corners. I have never worked on 2500 or 3500 brakes before and know they are different then 1500 brakes. I have changed rotors and pads many times on cars and 1500 trucks. I need to know what I am getting into and what I need to get this done. What special tools are required? Any help would be appreciated.

The fronts are pretty straight forward, same as the 1500s, although your 3500 rotors may have provisions for installing jack screws to force a rusted rotor off the hub while the 1500's may not have this provision.

The rears are more involved (as you'd expect) and will need a wheel bearing nut wrench J 2222-C to remove the rather large (and funky looking) wheel bearing adjusting nut and you will need a hydraulic press to separate the rotor from the hub (by pressing off the lugnut studs).

To begin, you have to remove the brake caliper & it's bracket as an assembly and then you can take it apart to replace the pads.

To get the rear rotors off, you start by removing the axle shafts. This is done by removing the axle shaft flange cover bolts and then pulling out the axle, may have to tap on it lightly to loosen it. May want to get gaskets for those flange covers in case the originals are destroyed. Then you can remove the rotor/hub assembly by first removing the hub bearing adjuster nut's retaining ring and the little locking key in the slot inside the flange opening where the adjuster nut is located. Then use the special tool mentioned above to remove the adjuster nut itself and now the rotor/hub can come off. To get the rotor off the hub you need to use a hydraulic press to pop the wheel studs off from the rotor so that it'll separate from the hub.

Some tightening specs (rear brakes):

Caliper bolts to bracket: use red loctite #272 & tighten to 80 lb ft.

Caliper bracket bolts to differential: 221 lb ft (use #272 red loctite)

Axle flange bolts: 148 lb ft.

Hub bearing adjuster nut to 52 lb ft. (using the special tool mentioned) and then turn it back to nearest locking key slot

Front wheel lugnuts: 140 lb ft

Rear wheel lugnuts (dually): 175 lb ft.

You may want to drain out the rear diff so that you don't lose any fluid (especially if it's pretty clean) before removing the axles. Also, the spindle the rotor/hub slides onto should be greased w/ a high melting point EP (extreme pressure) bearing lubricant.

Hope this gives you and idea of what's involved...BTW this info comes from my '01 GM truck service manual.

Any One Have Cross Ref. to that tool J2222c , Something I can get at Napa?