Fuel Pump Replacemnt

Cdale2k · September 10, 2008

Ok, So i replaced my pump and decided that i would come up with some instructions for others, just in case. This is for NBS trucks, buit may work on older trucks as well Tools needed: Hand tool guys 1/2" ratchet 18 mm deep well socket 18mm standard socket 6" extension torx set small flat blade driver medium flat blade driver Hammer compressed air can Air tool guys: Same, just with an air ratchet and air gun My recomendation before doing this, wash the under carriage of the truck to remove all the loose dirt 1. Start by removing the tailgate and spare tire ( the tire is just for extra room underneath) 2. Remove the Big blue and big white connectors on the rear driver side of the bed 3. Remove the filler neck by removing the 2 torx screws and push pin 4. Locate and remove the 6-8 bolts holding the bed down 5. Fold the filler neck out of the way to allow room for the bed to be removed. 6. With three other people, Lift the bed and move toward the rear of the vehicle, or you can use 2 straps, go from corner to corner, and use a cherry picker to lift the bed. 7. With the top of the fuel tank exsposed, blow all of the excess dirt off to prevent it from getting into the fuel tank. 8. Take the screw driver and hammer and take the metal ring off to allow you to remove the fuel pump. The 3 lines that connect to it are just clipped on, along with the 2 connectors 9. To help, take a wire hanger, and fish the float out so that it is straight up and down, this will allow you to remove it with very little of a fight. 10. Clean the area where the fuel pump sits. CAUTION: MAKE SURE NO DIRT FALLS IN OR IT COULD MAKE FOR A BAD DAY 11. Follow the instructions that come with the fuel pump for installation (just incase they have anything specific, such as a new harness), But essentially connect the the 3 fuel lines, and 2 connectors. Press the metal ring down on top of the and twist it so it holds. Then tap it into place 12. Once it is installed, to save you the hassle of removing the bed again, now would be a good time to check and make sure that it is working. 13. Double check everything to make sure that the bed is ready to be put back on. 14. Carefully lift the bed back up and set it on the frame. 15. With some one to move the bed, crawl under and thread in the bolts so they are loose, that way it is easier to get all of them to line up 16. Once you are satisfied with how the bed is sitting, torque the bolts to 85 Ft Lbs 17. Connect the rear light connectors, and check to make sure that all lights work. 18. Attach the filler neck. 19. Install the spare tire 20. Install the tail gate. This should complete the installation of a fuel pump. You will have to re learn your fuel gauge, just because of the new float. If you have any other questions, let me know and i will try my best to answer them.

minibike132 · September 10, 2008

Holy frickin layout, admin this is what we are talking about with the site problems. I remove beds for pumps all the time and the layout confused me. Not your fault things are jacked up here right now. My only question is why remove the tire and gate?

Cdale2k · September 10, 2008

Well i was able to fix the layout a little bit, But i removed the tail gate to remove some weight from the bed seeing as how i only had 2 other people to help me, and the tire was for space to get the 4 back bolts, just gave me some extra room

minibike132 · September 10, 2008

Much better layout, thanks for the pics. I understand the tire and gate removal now. The only thing I would add is that there is often a ground strap near the filler neck or left front of the bed to take off. Taking off the bed works great for alot of things in the rear. Brake lines, fuel pumps, differentials. We take the cab off for almost any Duramax repairs, that only takes about 45 minutes and everything is out of the way.

Cdale2k · September 10, 2008

That is true. But the ground strap was attached to the top of the filler neck, so removing it from under the gas cover on the bed made it so i didn't need to remove it. But how do you remove the cab in 45 min?

minibike132 · September 10, 2008

Practice, I don't have any pictures but I'm sure I can dig some up tomorrow. I don't think it can be done without a rack, you need about 7 feet of clearance to get it off. Same principle though, disconnect everything connecting the cab to the frame, you would be surprised how few things need to be disconnected. Next time I do it I'll make a thread.

svensk · September 10, 2008

Practice, I don't have any pictures but I'm sure I can dig some up tomorrow. I don't think it can be done without a rack, you need about 7 feet of clearance to get it off. Same principle though, disconnect everything connecting the cab to the frame, you would be surprised how few things need to be disconnected. Next time I do it I'll make a thread.

That's how body shops install a new frame if they need to.

Cdale2k · September 10, 2008

Cool, Well if i ever need to pull the cab off i can take it down to work, use the lift there to pull it off

BIG_BLOCK · November 28, 2008

Where is the best place to buy a fuel pump?

I have a 2000 GMC K 2500. 7.4L.

splat10 · August 30, 2009

Here's how you do it by yourself. It helps if the paint is beat to hell on your 11 year old truck and you don't care about a few scratches. If yours is new use lots of towels between the bumper and bed.

First, give the tow truck driver a 10 spot to put it in the garage for you (expecially if you driveway it uphill like mine)

1) Remove Tailgate to reduce the weight of the bed. It takes 30 seconds so it's very worth it.

2) Spray lots of PB Blaster on bed bolts

3) Remove 8 bed bolts with Impact (you'll need a 6" extension for 6 of the 8).

4) lift bed (it's not heavy) and place something in the wheel well to hold it up some. Then slide in floor jack on tire. Jack SLOWLY. The bumper on the passenger side will keep the bed from falling off. Place towels or blankets in between to save paint.

5) place jack stands on tank and frame rail (see pics). Let bed down but keep jack in too foranother safety. Shake bed good to make sure its secure because it will ruin your day if it falls on you.

6) Remove rusted to hell ring from the pump by spraying the crap out of it with PB and beating with hammer and chisel/screwdriver. It will go eventually. Vacuum up all the dirt, salt and rust chips, then blow it off with high pressure air to make sure its very clean there. You don't want anything to fall it the tank.

7) Remove electrical and the fuel lines

8) Fuel pump pops right out after that

9) Reverse and you're done.

10) Replace fuel filter (unless you're like me and the filter is completely rusted to the fittings and won't come of. Then soak it with PB for about 4 days in a row and try again).

kwed2011 · April 26, 2012

I need to replace my fuel pump. I am seeing two types: 1) w/Evap Emissions Sensor Stamped TCF and 2) w/o Evap Emissions Sensor Stamped TCU. Is there a way for me to know which one I have without pulling it 1st? RockAuto has the best price I can find for a Delphi. The truck is still runnning fine, the existing pump just has a bad check valve which causes the annoying hard start condition on occasion that I'm sure we are all familiar with . My dilemma is I need to order the correct pump but don't want to have the truck torn down until it arrives. This is a 2000 Silverado 5.3L. Any suggestions on an easy way to determine which one I need?

iamtron · April 26, 2012

@Kurt63 - it seems like somewhere I read that the TCF only has one electical connector and the TCU has 2. But don't quote me on that. Do a little research and see. You should be able to reach up under there and figure it out, if you can find something "easily" unique like this between the two.

I just did the fuel pump in my 2001 Silverado 1500 Extended Cab with 5.3 last week. 156K miles, first pump. Not too bad First time doing an electric fuel pump on any vehicle (though did my share of mechanical pumps back in the day). . Lots of good information in the forums here that made the job much easier. Thanks to all the posters here.

I did the "cut a hole in the box" method. I should have taken pics, but I didn't. The truck has a hard plastic bedliner in it anyways. So I pulled the bedliner out. From underneath the truck, I covered the top of the tank with a welding leather blanket to keep sparks, etc away from the tank. Using 4" angle grinder with cut-off wheel, I cut a hole through the box over the fuel pump. I surprised myself by getting the alignment right the first cut (doesn't usually work that way for me) I put some duct tape on the sharp edges while working to keep my hands from getting all cut up. Clean all the dirt and rust from around the fuel pump. Loosed the lock ring. Disconnect everything. Pull the pump up and out. Clean the top. Drop the new pump in. Reconnect everything. Test it to make sure it work. Put a couple of coats of paint on the newly cut edges to prevent rust. Re-installed bedliner. Done.

I don't know that I'd recommend this method to people just because sparks near gas isn't a good thing. But I had my reasons and wanted to share that it can be done if you are careful enough. Patience and safety is key if trying this method.

A couple of pointers/gotchas I ran into in general:

1. Lock ring was BADLY rusted. I pretty much had to break it into pieces to get it off, then buy a new ring. Luckily the lock tabs on the tank to hold the ring were still OK. I used a brass punch and brass wire wheel they working the rust off the old ring to try to prevent sparks. Patience is key.

2. I had to re-use the gasket from the old fuel pump. The new one was just a little too tight. Someone in one of the other post warned that you may have to do this.

kwed2011 · April 26, 2012

It just occured to me that my pesky, persistent P0446 code started occuring around the same time as my occasional hard start issue. I checked both solinoids, cleaned the vent filter, checked gas cap, etc.Everything is good and working but the P0446 continues. Could it be that I DO have the fuel pump w/Evap Emissions Sensor and the leaking check valve in the pump is causing the code? I would love to kill these 2 birds with one stone!

kwed2011 · April 26, 2012

OK with the use of a mirror & flashlight I can see there are 2 electrical connectors on my fuel pump. If the photos on Oreilly's site are correct that is the pump WITH Evap Emissions Sensor aka: TCF. I found a guy locally who can get me a Delphi for $240. I'm going with that. I'll let you know if this solves my P0446 too. (fingers crossed. State inspection coming up in June)

kwed2011 · May 2, 2012

Update: I replaced my fuel pump. Starts easy now every time on the 1st try. It's been 3 days now & the SES light (P0446) has not come back on so I'm fairly confident that the fuel pump solved both problems. It's really nice having my truck operatiing the way it should again. I'm really thankful for this great site and all the valuable input from everyone.

Thanks!

Kurt