Jump to content

Matt_

Member
  • Posts

    5,106
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://

Profile Information

  • Location
    central NJ

Recent Profile Visitors

8,051 profile views

Matt_'s Achievements

Senior Enthusiast

Senior Enthusiast (11/11)

17

Reputation

  1. First reply! Lol But same.... one of these will likely be my next truck.
  2. Looking forward to some pics... I think I want to go with blue sky metallic, but I'm intrigued by the brownstone.
  3. When i did it, these were the parts I needed for my 2005 88962315 = Sensor 12384990 = Seal
  4. Its the encoder motor sensor. About $70 in parts and 30-40 minutes if you're willing to take apart the shift motor (or you can just buy the whole shift motor and swap it out in 10 minutes...)
  5. Dropping your tcase down won't help.... did you mean you're going to try dropping the diff?
  6. great first post. welcome to the site. hopefully you stick around.
  7. I didn't think they made kits for our trucks. I could be wrong, but i believe most "kits" are targeted towards axles commonly used in SAS's and trail rigs. If there is one, problem solved
  8. Welcome to a public forum. You're going to get opinions whether you want them or not. Your question was: My answer is NO. Because of the safety factor that these parts are designed to, it's unlikely that you have a lot of room for play without putting yourself and other peoples safety at risk. I personally think that anyone who grinds down their brake calipers to fit different wheels on a vehicle that's driven on public streets is a complete idiot and i pray they never fail and hurt anyone. There are plenty of other ways to make your vehicle "stand out" that doesn't require high risk. That's my opinion, take it or leave it. As far as your second idea is concerned. I'd just go to a parts store and have them pull out a caliper assembly and rotor for both trucks and compare them to see if they might bolt up. Still taking a step back in terms of braking performance (which i'd probably laugh at anyone when they told me they did that just to fit 1" smaller wheels) but at least the parts aren't hacked from their OEM configuration. Throw some SS brake lines on there to help keep the pressure up while you're at it.
  9. How did you verify there weren't any safety issues? Just because someone didn't have one fail? There's a fine line between "no issues" and "lucky". Did someone run analysis to see what the new fatigue life of those calipers are? Cut one in half to measure the actual wall thickness and do some pressure vessel calcs to determine the stresses? You're screwing with the single MOST IMPORTANT safety feature on the vehicle. Keep in mind that with high material costs and efforts to reduce weight, I highly doubt there's a lot of excess material there that wasn't deemed necessary by extensive analysis. Show me some FEA and calc's and we'll talk. But if all you got is "some back yard mechanics did it and didn't have a problem"... then I'd advise you to think a little bit more and consider the consequences.
  10. See the first page of this thread. We retracted the NBS and NNBS designations already. It's also not allowed in the for sale forum and there's a sticky there. When you see someone new, remind them we don't use those terms here. Unfortunately, there's a lot of other websites where they use those ridiculous terms and seem to refuse to change
  11. Yeah, call up the parts department instead of the service department. They'll probably ask for your VIN number and then tell them what parts you want.
  12. There have been quite a few members posting about this 'popping' noise lately.... im interested to see where thiis goes.. Can you feel it in the steering wheel at all or is it just audible and nothing can actually be felt?
  13. Left/Front Door Lock&Actuator: 25876385 ($68 @ gmpartsdirect) Left/Rear Door Lock&Actuator: 25876393 ($80 @ gmpartsdirect) Is this the same part numbers as the Right Side? I would assume that the R/S would be different... not 100% though. Those are just the part numbers I needed for both my driver side locks; my passenger side has been working fine thus far.
  14. No, it has nothing to do with the autolock/unlock feature. If it did, every vehicle would have failing actuators. I had auto locks in my 2005 and never had one issue in 80k miles with a door actuator. GM used crappy actuators for the new trucks. period. Edit: if anything, you should be thankful that you have the lock/unlock feature... without it you might not know that you have a bad actuator until you're out of warranty.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.