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The Wartsila-Sulzer RTA96-C turbocharged two-stroke diesel engine is the most powerful and most efficient prime-mover in the world today. The Aioi Works of Japan 's Diesel United, Ltd built the first engines and is where some of these pictures were taken. It is available in 6 through 14 cylinder versions, all are inline engines. These engines were designed primarily for very large container ships. Ship owners like a single engine/single propeller design and the new generation of larger container ships needed a bigger engine to propel them. The cylinder bore is just under 38" and the stroke is just over 98". Each cylinder displaces 111,143 cubic inches (1820 liters) and produces 7780 horsepower. Total displacement comes out to 1,556,002 cubic inches (25,480 liters) for the fourteen cylinder version.



Some facts on the 14 cylinder version:

Total engine weight: 2300 tons (The crankshaft alone weighs 300 tons.)

Length: 89 feet

Height: 44 feet

Maximum power</SPAN>: 108,920 hp at 102 rpm

Maximum torque: 5,608,312 lb/ft at 102rpm

Fuel consumption at maximum power is 0.278 lbs per hp per hour (Brake Specific Fuel Consumption). Fuel consumption at maximum economy is 0.260 lbs/hp/hour. At maximum economy the engine exceeds 50% thermal efficiency. That is, more than 50% of the energy in the fuel in converted to motion.
For comparison, most automotive and small aircraft engines have BSFC figures in the 0.40-0.60 lbs/hp/hr range and 25-30% thermal efficiency range.

Even at its most efficient power setting, the big 14 consumes 1,660 gallons of heavy fuel oil per hour.

A cross section of the RTA96C:

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The internals of this engine are a bit different than most automotive engines.
The top of the connecting rod is not attached directly to the piston. The top of the connecting rod attaches to a "crosshead" which rides in guide channels. A long piston rod then connects the crosshead to the piston.
I assume this is done so the the sideways forces produced by the connecting rod are absorbed by the crosshead and not by the piston. Those sideways forces are what makes the cylinders in an auto engine get oval-shaped over time.
Installing the "thin-shell" bearings. Crank & rod journals are 38" in diameter and 16" wide:

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The crank sitting in the block (also known as a "gondola-style" bedplate). This is a 10 cylinder version. Note the steps by each crank throw that lead down into the crankcase:

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A piston & piston rod assembly. The piston is at the top. The large square plate at the bottom is where the whole assembly attaches to the crosshead:

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The "spikes" on the piston rods are hollow tubes that go into the holes you can see on the bottom of the pistons (left picture) and inject oil into the inside of the piston which keeps the top of the piston from overheating. Some high-performance auto engines have a similar feature where an oil squirter nozzle squirts oil onto the bottom of the piston.

The cylinder deck (10 cylinder version). Cylinder liners are die-cast ductile cast iron. Look at the size of those head studs!:
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You will have to get an adapter to mate this up to the tranny. The motor mounts and crossmember will need to be relocated. Also plan on upgrading your suspension and brakes.

that should smoke your tires, you may need to upgrade your engine compartment, and suspension, but it should not be to hard to do...

HAHA. only

I can get that from my truck with just a TB spacer and a 108,600ish shot of NOS

oh..almost forgot, the radiator will need to be relocated and upgraded to accomodate the increased cooling requirements. I would plan taking your entire weekend to get this swaped.

Do you think a 2" cowl hood will work or should I just go with the 4" hood?

4". Make sure you put the "Wartsila-Sulzer" stickers on it, so everyone will know whats under the hood. If you put it in German(?), you get an extra 500HP/500TQ.

Good idea. Do you think it will make my front end drop any? If so I can probably put 2 or 3 hundred level kits in. But seriously, that is fWONking ton of torque 5+million. The G80 should hold up right.

You might need to do a tranny flush...new fluids and you would be ready to go!

at a whopping 102 RPM too.

Don't over rev that.

I'd get a tune. Remove the TM.

better hope it doesn't tick

be sure to disable the AFM

If I did this swap too, would I be able to beat my friend's Eagle Talon?

I wonder if it meets CAFE?

You probably should upgrade to at least the 14bolt SF rear if you intend on going with the 14 cyl. version

It probably does, and does it on fuel that costs a few cents a gallon.

I think you buy fuel by the barrel for that big block.

Not fuel...just the oil for the oil pan...

Definitly a 3 or 4 drums per cylinder

It's a two-stroke.

I would at least get your 4L60-E rebuilt with stronger parts. You'll probably need a 14 bolt, too. Lot's of work to do, but it'll make Parish's look like it's standing still. No, going in reverse. You will be rotating the earth beneath you. Give a friendly wave to the guy driving the Veyron when you fly by it while towing your whole neighborhood behind you, as well.

2 stroke diesels still need oil in the crank case.

2 stroke diesel

Thanks, I learned something new today! I forgot that they were basically four-strokes without intake valves (which is why they have an oil pan, right?).

I bet that thing would be slow as hell, it'd just be able to pull a skyscraper when it moves. Hey...guess what? It's a container ship engine, exactly what it was designed for. That engine alone looks post-panamax so looks like whatever it's going in is taking the long way around. Imagine how thick the drive shaft has to be to not shatter under that much torque.

But his truck only weighs 5500 pounds or so, so he could run taller gearing than a ship. But you're right about the drive shaft, he should probably use a custom one from an axle shop.

If you seen the mighty ships episode on the Emma Merkse, u'd seen the propeller shaft.
The engine above is just a 6 cylinder version, the Emma got the 14!
With all the crap going on off Somalia, they probably goes on down around south africa now and up europe from asia...

Lol, I actually saw that the other day. It's how I knew the "post-panamax" term. It was pretty interesting.

I am more concerned about the hood. There is nothing more unappealing to me than a big engine sticking out of the hood...very ugly.

It would have to fit under the hood for me to do the swap...

If i was wanting to do this swap could i still use a cold air intake that i have now? Also, will GM be able to tell anything has been done and void my warranty?

Well, I'm sure you could have someone fab up a thirty foot cowl induction hood. Couldn't be that costly.



I'd say you'd probably need a six foot in diameter intake or so, at least, so probably not. You could just buy some sewer piping from a steel company that'd get the job done just as well as a name-brand CAI. Oh, and the air filter! K&N makes custom sizes, so that won't be an issue.

That wouldn't look stock...

That'd be the least of your issues...

At least with that redline, turbo lag should be much of a problem!