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GhostWriter

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About GhostWriter

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    2008 Avalanche 3LT Z-71
  1. Assuming you changed the filter underneath the pressure sensor. For some reason, I'm more intrigued by what the other issues may be?
  2. An interesting read. Many 5.3 AFM engine owners have asked the same questions. In no particular order, here are some additional things to consider: 1) Before posting, have your local parts store pull the check engine code for free. Posting without the codes drives us crazy. 2) Your LC9 could be fine, or it might fail - tomorrow. No mention of another owner in the mix 3) A 2013 should be equipped with an AFM relief valve shield, and a re- designed L/H (driver's side) valve cover. Together, they help minimize oil- consumption on your AFM engine. 4) A thorough technician will test oil pressure at the top, and the bottom of the engine. 5) The pump pulls unfiltered oil from the pan. The regulating valve could begin sticking at any time. 6) This is a gerotor (over-the-crank) pump. If removed for examination, your technician should perform a re-alignment procedure. 7) Funny how my "piston slap" seemed to go away after the pick-up tube o-ring was replaced. 8) Good luck!
  3. Favorite brand of battery powered tools?

    There was a time when a 12 volt Panasonic could still outperform the box store pro-sumer 18 volts. Still have my original 12 volt drill/driver Panasonic from the late 90's. Been dropped from a ladder at least a dozen times. It never broke. Originally, believe Hilti's were re-badged Panasonics. Won't find either in big box stores.
  4. ALL AFE INTAKES 15% OFF

    Not ready to buy, but wondering why the Momentum GT Pro doesn't fit an '08? Thanks for your help!
  5. When you take it apart, it will be clear what's loose. Don't believe I've ever had to change an inner tie rod. Must be lucky. Good luck.
  6. You're on the right track, when it comes to getting the complete control arms. You can still replace lower ball joints, but, if lower control arm is aluminum, bushings aren't serviceable. Assuming you have rack & pinion steering, so a pitman arm wouldn't be necessary. So, adding wheel bearings, tie rod ends, stabilizer bushings , stabilizer links, and front struts should have everything riding like new (and, squeak free.) In the rust belt, hardest part of this whole job might be the removal of the stabilizer bushing bolts.
  7. Sounds like your project is moving along. Probably wouldn't draw any conclusions on your AC operation until it gets warmer, outside. Read the fine print in the owners manual. It should list the exact conditions for your AC to be cycling, automatically. Usually tied to humidity control.
  8. Those of us with a long view recall the long list of (supposedly) modified components that were necessary before a vehicle could be badged Flex Fuel. Eventually, some of these parts may have become standard; however, if there's no evidence that a particular model year or engine code allowed for Flex Fuel operation, then the programmers have probably made a wise decision. The other thing that's interesting is the mention of the sensor. There's no ethanol (alcohol) sensor on my Flex Fuel. By 2008, the engines were adjusted for ethanol content using the O2 sensors. and modified programming. If GM reversed course and began installing ethanol sensors, again, wasn't aware of it.
  9. Thanks for the tip. Never would have thought of wrapping calipers, on my own.
  10. You can rig the flapper valve to stay open, then see if fuel economy improves.
  11. Thanks for responding. Was concerned since my fronts on the GMT 900 are more struts, than shocks; and, would probably have a direct affect on ride height.
  12. I use Speedi Bleed, from Canada. There are so many variables, here, that it could be anything. Also, if you're right about the bleeder valves, then the front pads were probably replaced after the pistons were forced back into the caliper. That would mean all that nasty fluid pushed back into the ABS system. Some random thoughts...... - Am assuming you are not losing any fluid. - The booster is supposed to make the pedal easier to press; however, the check valve can go bad. - The firm pedal with engine off doesn't necessarily mean the master cylinder is good. - When bleeding, if the pedal is accidentally pressed to the floor, it could ruin the MC. - Your drum brakes might not be adjusted correctly. - Verify that your bleeder valves are on "top" of the calipers. - If there aren't any mom & pop brake experts in Pekin, have Dennison's look at it. Good luck!
  13. Driveline clunk maintenance..2008

    That sounds right. Thanks for clarifying.
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