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Cowpie

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Cowpie last won the day on June 2

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About Cowpie

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  • Name
    Cliff
  • Location
    Iowa
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    2015 Silverado 2500HD LT Z71 6.0L and 2006 Cadillac CTS 3.6L

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  1. If I were to get a new Dmax, one of the first things I would do is put on an Air Dog or FASS system and have it draw from the bottom of the tank via a Bean fuel tank sump, thereby eliminating or reducing the risk of a bunch of issues.
  2. I got the tabs right from the Air Tab website. Actually, the ones I put on the 2500 were a batch left over from when I did my semi truck a couple of years earlier. Yeah, they stick on with 3M.
  3. You can see the tabs on the rear and across the top of the rear portion of the cab. Just like Keith, this was before BFG KO2's next size up from stock were installed. It already had the 2" McGaughy's drop shackles in the rear end installed so it didn't look so much like a cat in heat.
  4. Yeah, same thing. Since i lowered the back a little with the McGaughy's shackles, figured I would jack the truck up via the frame and get some distance between frame and axle. Screwdriver to take the bump stops out. Cleaned out the pockets. Put a little silicone lube on the Sumo's. Twisted them right in. About as simple as it gets. When I lowered the truck, the Sumo's rested on the axle.
  5. Yeah, I have changed out the exhaust early on with every vehicle I have owned in the last 40 years. Will not affect warranty. Everything else might. Just be a little prudent on what you change and don't broadcast it to the dealership if you take it in for service. Heck, I usually don't even use the oil they say I am supposed to use and there has never been a problem. Dealerships are like dealing with police.... don't give them any more information than necessary. On the oil thing, no dealer can tell what kind of oil you are using, only the viscosity. And even then, they cannot tell the difference within that viscosity. They can't tell the difference between a 0w20 and 5w20, nor the difference between a 5w30 and 10w30. Just not possible. And they sure can't tell which brand it is. Do everything within reason and use some good sense and you should be fine. Don't go goofy with mods.
  6. New truck, new trailer, new to this!

    The LT tires make sense. Just don't pump them up too much. Get the load pressure chart from the tire OEM and inflate accordingly. Pressing the edge of the envelope, but should be doable with a 1500. Like has been stated, watch the load out. The only other observation is, a good 2500 has significantly more overall capability than a 6.2 1500. Maybe not off the line, but it will pull a house down and can carry 1000 lb more. Frame and brakes are beefier in a 2500. Beefed up trans, engine oil, and radiator cooling.... standard. A 6500 lb trailer will feel like nothing is back there with a 2500. Even the 6.0L gasser is rated for over twice that and the new ones have 1700 lb tongue rating, stock and without a WD hitch. And in most cases, cheaper in buying price as well by a good margin. There has always been sound wisdom in buying a little more truck than what you think you might need, just like in computers, you always buy a computer with more RAM than you think you will need. And the engine in a truck is just one part of the equation.
  7. That one at Etrailer is the one I had targeted. Yeah, I want a 2.5 receiver, as that is what the OEM one on my 2500 is and I already have ball mounts for.
  8. Yeah, different regions have different price spreads. Our area, regular E10 is going for $2.39, but diesel is pegging $2.95. Many times, state regulation and taxing are what causes the major difference. Back several years ago when prices really hit the stratosphere, my pickup lived for almost 2 years on E85. Gas was at around $4 a gallon, diesel was trying to reach $5 a gallon, and E85 was at about $2.50. So even with the lower mpg of E85, I still came out ahead. That is why I have grown fond of flex fuel engines. I am not stuck with one fuel. On the futures market... gasoline is $1.74. Ethanol is $1.40, and diesel ULSD is $1.84. The price difference you see at the pump is transportation and fuel tax. Mostly fuel tax, and the majority of fuel tax is state, not Federal. It is typical for fuel tax to be from 60 cents a gallon on up to over a dollar (both Federal and State) depending on the state. Federal tax is the same across the nation, so you know who really is to blame for the price you pay. Don't holler at Washington, look to your own state capitol.
  9. Well, it is a 6200 lb rated rear axle. I put Sumosprings on it some time ago for more stability when hauling those really heavy loads. I am not really trying to put 2K on the hitch or desiring to. It is having a hitch that is more capable and offers better structural support for those times when landing up a dump trailer it cannot be avoided going over the 1500 lb stock tongue rating. And also a more durable hitch when pulling those heavy loads off road. I have every intention of staying within the 13K max tow rating. It is the tongue rating that is problematic. 1500 lb tongue rating is reached with only 11% of a 13K trailer. It is just not practical to always keep tongue weights EXACTLY at 10-11% of the load with a dump trailer. One is bound to go over 11% occasionally even when trying not to.
  10. Yeah, you are correct. There is some of that left over 2300 is going to be on the steer axle, but the majority is on the rear axle. It's not an even deal. The rear axle is rated 2000 lb more than the steer axle to begin with and has less weight on it when the truck is empty than the steer axle does. It is the little bit of flexibility above the stock hitch ratings when pulling a dump trailer that are in play. Even if one sticks with the OEM max hitch towing recommendation of 13K, that OEM hitch tongue rating is only 11% of that. With a dump trailer being loaded, it is not always so easy to keep tongue weights exactly at 10-11%. One could easily hit 12 or 13%. If tongue went to 15%, that is 1950 lb. It is that little extra leeway of a percent to two that is desired. Obviously, using a Weigh Safe hitch to monitor tongue weight is a good idea. But after a bucket load of aggregate or dirt gets put in the trailer, if the tongue weight is, say 1650 lb at that point, one just doesn't shuffle a load in the dump to get it back below the hitch 1500 tongue rating. And using a heavier duty hitch in place of the stock one gives a margin of safety that the hitch will be able to deal with those variances/overages that could occur. I have no desire to pull heavier than the OEM max of 13000 trailering, and most times will be even under that by some margin. If this was about loading equipment, it would be a much easier proposition, as equipment could be moved to exactly the right location on the trailer to get the best results to appease the GM wonks who sit in cubicles. Loose material that even will shift a little in transit is a different can of worms.
  11. PJ Dump Trailer

    Well, did more of my research and have settled in on a Load Trail 14K 6x12 with King Size box. I want some extra D rings in box and other items like Coyote Tan color, so just need to get an order placed with my local dealer. The option of the king size box was the clincher. Good CF capacity without the wider track of a 7x12 and 600-700 lb lighter than a 7x12. And still has the 3 way tailgate that Load Trail is known for. Similar to this one.....
  12. Yeah, it seems kinda goofy. A double cab with a 6.5 bed is going to have roughly same wheel base as a standard cab with a 8' bed. So the arguments about leverage seem to fall apart especially since GM doesn't differentiate cabs in their chart. Only box size. It has to be something in regard to the hitch itself. And a double cab with a 6.5 bed will have less distance between rear axle and hitch than the standard cab with long bed, so the fulcrum point is more advantageous to using higher tongue weight with the 6.5 bed with a double or crew cab on that basis alone. The fulcrum point is closer to the load. I did pay attention in science and math classes in college when I wasn't checking out the girls. But thanks for the input on it, guys. Made me dust off my brain and think about it better. It has to be the hitch itself. haven't looked up part numbers to confirm. Either way, I am not satisfied with the stock hitch on my 2500HD DC 6.5. I am probably going to replace it with a Curt 2700/20,000 hitch. Primarily for the added structural support when using the dump trailer in off road conditions and better chain hook loops. Somebody at GM was smoking something illegal when they came up with those goofy securement loops.
  13. I think they do help a little on keeping dirt buildup off the back. I live on gravel roads and I have noticed less accumulation of dirt on the back end. Didn't eliminate it, but did reduce it. The best way to keep dirt off the back is a air deflector that pushes air down across the back end. Some RV places have universal air deflectors and if I was using a cap, I would look into that. I use a tonneau occasionally. Air tabs could go on a hard bed cover, but not on a soft tonneau. I have air tabs on the rear fenders near the lights and across the top of the cab rear.
  14. Just curious if someone has a real clue as to why the 2500HD standard bed has a max 1500 lb tongue weight on the hitch, but the 2500HD long bed has max 2000 lb tongue weight on the hitch? Other than maybe a different hitch, what if any does 1.5 ft of truck bed have to do with tongue weight on the same 6.0L 2500HD?
  15. One could always put Air Tabs on the back end of the truck and cap to help a little on aerodynamics. Many of us use them on semi trucks and they seem to help a little. I have them on my 2500HD. Since my pickup is Summit White, I got the white Air Tabs and they match perfectly. http://airtab.com
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