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About 14WhiteZ71

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  • Birthday 05/15/1985

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  • Location
    North Carolina
  • Gender
  • Drives
    2014 White GMC Sierra Z71 SLT
  1. For sale: 4 brand new 1.5” Hub Centric Wheel adapters. TrailSport4x4 brand. Bolt pattern is 6x5.5. They were for my 2014 GMC Sierra 1500. 2 are still unopened and in plastic. I put 2 on the truck and literally drove it no where at all, then decided they stick out a little farther than I liked. Check out their website to see all the specs on them. They sell for $80/pair plus shipping. I’ll do $70 per pair plus shipping, or $130 for all 4 plus shipping. This is is a picture of them straight from their website. Email me at [email protected] if interested.
  2. I’ve got 2 different Level and Body Lift Setups I’ll be posting. First couple of pictures are 2.5” Rough Country Level with Rear blocks, 2” Performance Accessories body lift on 295/55/20 Toyo Open Country AT 2 Extreme tires, factory wheels. Next Couple are same setup, plus 1.5” Hubcentric Wheel Adapters. I personally went with the 2” body lift because I already had a 2.5” Level on it and I was looking to have 4-5” of lift on the truck. The 2” body lift cost me $800 installed vs $2,500 for a 4 or 5” suspension lift to achieve the same look basically. Overall I am very happy with my setup. Sitting at 4.5” total lift over stock, I am right where I wanted to be with it. Still not settled on the 1.5” Wheel Adapters all the way around. I like it, but they may stick out a bit farther than I really want them to and I’m not 100% sure I trust them, especially on the front. I had them on my old 2006 2500HD Diesel on the rear and towed heavy with it, with no problems. Just still undecided. The Wife likes it better without them on. And for the record, with these factory wheels, I am 100% confident 1.25” Wheel Adapters would work......and about 90% sure 1” would work. These wheels have a pocket on the back side that is at or just over 1/2” deep. Studs are 1”. I may attempt 1” Adapters and see what happens.
  3. I know the wheel Adapters topic has been beat to death. I currently have a 2.5” RC Level on my 2014 Sierra Z71, with the rear block installed. Also have 295/55/20 Toyo AT2 Extreme’s on stock 20” chrome SLT wheels. Having 2” body lift installed on December 1 for a total of 4.5” lift basically. I am am going to purchase hub centric wheel Adapters and according to my measurements, 1.25” Adapters will work without trimming any of the factory studs. I think 1” would actually work but I’m going to go 1.25” to be safe. Yes I took a wheel off, measured my factory studs and then measured the pockets on the back side of the wheel. My question is this.....does anyone have any experience with WheeladaptersUSA . Com ? I know Bora is a go to, trusted manufacturer. But at like $215 for 4 Bora’s vs $125 for 4 from wheeladaptersusa ..... if they are both Hub Centric and made the same, why wouldn’t I save basically $100 for the same thing ? So does anyone have any experience with this company ? Thanks.
  4. Sorry to tell y'all, but I have yet to order the adapters. Had way too much going on and a few extra expenses that has prevented me from doing much extra. But Yes, I ran 1.5" on the rear of my 2006 2500 HD Diesel for years with no problems at all. And if I remember correctly I ordered them off Ebay. I just made sure they were hubcentric and quality made (from same material as BORA and others). I even pulled roughly 12,000 - 14,000 pounds several times per year with it and had no issues. That being said, my brother in law bought the exact same ones and pulled with it daily (farm 2500HD truck) and after about 4 or 5 years he had to replace a stud or 2 in the adapter. Other than that, no issues.
  5. 10-4. Thanks for the responses. I'll be ordering them soon and will let y'all know how it works. By my math and measurements, 1" should work. Thanks
  6. No responses needed asking why I want them or anything like that. I ran hub centric 1.5" adapters on the rear of my previous 2500HD. Towed heavy all the time with no problems. I now have a 2014 Sierra 1500 SLT, with the factory 20" SLT wheels. Running 295/55 Open Country tires. I've researched the heck out of it and can't seem to find the answer I'm looking. I'd like to run 1.25" adapters all the way around but I have found mixed answers on whether or not I would have to cut the factory studs if I run anything less than 1.5". I took a wheel off today and measured some things. The factory studs are 1 - 3/4" long. There is a recessed pocket on the factory wheels between all the stud holes that is 3/4" deep. Am I correct in my thinking that with the way adapters bolt up to the factory studs, then the adapters to the wheels, that the factor studs that are left sticking out of the adapters will line up with these pockets on the wheels ? Therefore, if the adapters are 1.25" thick, there would be 1/2" of factory stud sticking out or protruding from the adapter, which would sit inside the recessed pocket of the factory wheel........ which is 3/4" deep..... which means that there would still be 1/4" of space left. In other words, 1.25" adapters would work without me having to cut any of the factory studs. Can someone clarify if that us accurate thinking ? I saw a post from 2016 on gmfullsize where a guy with a 2014 SLT Sierra had 1.25" on the rear of his lifted truck, with factory wheels, but it was not said if he had to cut studs or not. Thanks.....and my aplogies for the redundancy of the question.
  7. I like 35's. I was just going to stick with 305's for #1, reduce power loss a little bit but still get that wider tire look I like. #2... $$$ Cost $$$. I'll probably end up with 305's before the lift anyway. Looks like stock tires have probably 5-6k miles left on them and me and the family just bought 20 acres of land and getting ready to build a new house....so the lift will have to wait unfortunately. So, I'll probably still have the 305's when I get the 4", so I'll probably have a few miles to assess if I like that or want to step up to 35's. I would have thought 35's would kill the power in these things. And yes I have 5.3 with 3.42's. Thanks for your response. Your truck definitely set my 4" lift desire in stone.
  8. Awesome. Set up looks good. Tire and wheel combo on your total lift looks great. Thanks.
  9. Truck Looks Great man ! I definitely want a 4", but I only want to run 305's. And I actually like the look of the factory wheels on there. I'm thinking of running my factory wheels with 305's when I finally get it lifted. That's why I asked it the lift kicked the front wheels out some because I would actually prefer it to do that and then run spacers on the rear if I kept factory wheels. If I got aftermarket wheels then I would rather the lift maintain the same track width as factory. But your truck looks great. Good job on it. Do you have it tuned? How bad of a power loss feel did you get with the 35's ?
  10. If you don't mind me asking..... what did that 4" BDS run you installed ? I want a 4" on mine bad! Looks Good. Does the BDS kick the front track width out wider than the rear? You got any pictures of it from the front looking down one side ??? Thanks.
  11. What tires are those ???? And did you install the body lift yourself by chance? I currently have the 2.5" level with rear blocks installed. Want a 4" lift, but your set up looks good....and is no where near as expensive. Especially if I can install the body lift myself.
  12. I have two (2), 1-1/2" wheel adapters / spacers that I ran on the rear of my 2006 2500HD I use to have. I put approximately 50,000 miles on these before taking them off and selling the truck. They've been sitting in my garage for about 3 years now and I don't have any use for them anymore. Seeing if anybody on here or knows somebody with a pre-2011 Duramax or 2500 that might want them. I think I paid like $150 for them new. Have all the lug nuts that come with them as well. Asking $50 plus shipping.
  13. I swear by 3M Scratch Remover. Can be bought at Wal-Mart and most Auto Parts Stores. Just used some today as a matter of fact. That stuff is like magic on scratches.
  14. Those of you with 14's that have had the headlight upgrade done at the dealer..... just curious if you can tell me.... what is the bulb/part number on the new bulbs ? How can I tell if they actually changed them out on mine? I had this done but I can't tell a real difference at night in the lights now vs before. Are they LED bulbs with the upgrade or just a different/better factory bulb? Edit: If I cold afford to (i.e. money was not option), I would trade up to a 2016 for the headlights alone. That's how bad I think mine suck. I had HID's in mine and they worked great and I was very happy.....for about 7 days. Then they just quit working altogether for some reason. I've changed ballasts and wiring harness out a couple of times with no luck getting them back working so I finally gave up. Only things I didn't change were the HID's themselves and the code canceler's.
  15. Here's mine. Had it since December 2013. A little dirty in some of the pictures..... And NEEDS TIRES BADLY !!! 2014. CC, 6.5 bed. SLT. Stock tires still on it. RC 2.5" Level with rear blocks in. Front Air Valence now removed. Signature tells the rest. Planning on probably 295/55/20's of some kind within the next year.

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