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jenga

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About jenga

  • Rank
    Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • Location
    Twin Cities, MN
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    2014 Granite Blue Z71 Crew cab short box
  1. I have had mine for about 18 months so far and had to do nothing to them maintenance wise.
  2. I bought the 2.5" kit but only put on the front as I ran out of daylight to do the rear. The truck fenders are at the same height from the ground. I got 39" all around from the ground to the bottom of the fender above the tire.
  3. I just did mine a couple of weeks ago (finished the front only) and before the alignment, the steering felt really tight / binding. Got the alignment done and looks like I had a good amount of toe in before the adjustment. Sway bar links torqued evenly?..17 ft/lbs I believe.
  4. Keep in mind where the 1" spacer is mounts on the lower control arm, it's not on the very end but where the strut mounts. There is a multiplication factor depending on the distance.
  5. I am going to do the 2.5" RC lift soon (1.25 RC body lift later this year). I would rather have the dealership I bought the truck from do my alignment. Is about 20 miles too far or not an issue. Thanks
  6. My tailgate would not open nor could I lift my tonneau cover after a recent snow and thaw cycle. As above, I found the tonneau seal was iced in place to the top of the tail gate. Broke the seal free and all it good. I will put some silicone spray on the seal to minimize this.
  7. Amp power steps lowers down further than nerf bars. Retract back and tuck into the body rockers nicely.
  8. Just tape a devil icon over the 'media' button on the radio...
  9. I pulled off the door panels to wire in my amp power steps. They detail how to do it in the instructions. http://www.amp-research.com/products/truckaccessories/powerstep/ Download instructions for 75154-01A
  10. My best mileage over 50 miles to date was 26 mpg. It was freeway driving going about 60 mph through the metro area w/o cruise control after a long drive. So I played with how to get the truck to switch to the V4 mode. I found that if I lift the gas pedal slightly (about 1/2" or so) for a second and then go back to same position, the truck will switch to V4 mode (going on a flat or downhill). I have observed that cruise control keeps in the V8 mode longer than when I drive without it.
  11. MMO can be a good additive for older 'old' school engines both oil and fuel. Seems to do no harm if used in moderation. In oil,(1/2 qt MMO per 5 qts oil) it acts a very mild cleaner. Cleaning some types of deposits - I have actually used it and it help with sticky lifters ages ago. More aggressive cleaners could release too much crude too quickly and clog filters. In gas, (4 oz MMO per 10 gallons) it acts a upper cylinder lubricant. Gas it actually very dry. Pouring in the fuel tank helps lubricate the fuel level, fuel pump and injectors. Now with direct injection, not sure how they will play out.
  12. I have the G4 elite and I can fold up the panels on mine easily. I found a technique of flipping the first panel onto the second and then lift those two panels up which lifts the third panel up at an angle. When the third panel is at about a 30 to 45 degree angle, I move the 1st and 2nd panels parallel to the ground while moving towards the cab. The whole stack pivots around the 3rd panel and then set down on the 4th panel.
  13. I am been putting off my install of the power amp step until the new module came out. The new module is PN 76400-01A, looks to be about $150. Three hours of install time or I buy three bottles of scotch....tough choices here.
  14. I think I found the issue on the way home tonight and it's more the AFM 4 cylinder mode. I went to the mpg page and noticed when it did it, it was in 4 cylinder mode and mpg were 99. So it might be cutting off the fuel and acting more like a compressor or jake brake.
  15. It's only when I am coasting down (no foot on the pedal), not really speed sensitive but most noticeable from 45 and below. I can watch the tach drop down when coasting and right about 1100 rpm, I get the vibration, then it goes away when the rpm drop to about 1050 rpm. As I continue to coast, the truck downshifts into the next gear, the rpms climb back above to say 1400 rpm and then repeats the vibration at 1100 rpm again. I was almost thinking the torque convertor was locked up and lugging the engine and then unlocking.
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