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About Crf450r420

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  • Name
  • Location
    Melbourne, Florida
  • Gender
  • Drives
    2014 CC StdB 1500 2LTZ Z71 4WD L86
  • Interests
    I like just about anything that burns gas. Burning Hydrogen also works, but fuel cells are no fun.
  1. About 50K I started have a vibration when braking down from 70 and up quick at highway exits. Got new rotors and pads. Put a dial indicator on the rotors and found the driver side only out .003" and the passenger side out .005", so I was pretty sure this was going to fix it. After I replaced my brake fluid and the rear was black at first and the front fluid was all clean. Guess these need a rear brake upgrade more than the front.
  2. Got the intake modified and installed. Bracket is almost done, just one more tiny piece to add before powder coating. That will leave mounting and wiring kit. I have just got more Camaro parts in so it isn't getting much attention. Green wire is the map on the new weather station.
  3. Meth

    water/meth injection kit hoping to keep valves clean
  4. pump runs all the time, but is only needed because of V4 mode. Remove the belt and keep it V8 as a quick test was my thought.
  5. Dang, wish I would have had this info when I was torquing the axle shackles today. I'll give that a look tomorrow. Fits with the fact that both have gone out and it's likely a common to both lights issue. Thanks for the help.
  6. If it is a lifter then thicker oil would likely stop it or at least change the sound. Change the oil with a little thicker oil or drain a quart and put some Lucas oil stabilizer in it to see if that changes things. If it does you can run thicker oil or replace the lifter. The vac pump could be disconnected safely if you drive only in manual and 5 selected so it stays out of V4. However, you should be able to tell the difference on that without it driving. A small exhaust leak can sound like a tick some times. Last one I can think of would be a broken valve spring, if it is a rapid valvetrain sound and not a slower piston slap.
  7. I noticed the other day that they are not working anymore. I've done nothing but drive it, so not sure what it could be that has stopped both from working. Cargo light still comes on so that makes me think it's not a fuse. Not sure where to look. I know back when I was on here a lot I had been looking at the wiring schematic, but can't remember where. Anyone else have this happen or know something about this stock system?
  8. Moving slow, but still doing this. I have the MIT intake tube now and I started making an adapter for the injector nozzle on the lathe tonight. They have a plastic adapter, but I didn't like the look of it. I've figured out the wiring. I can't easily get the connectors for the MAF (or weather station) since it's made by a small company and isn't Delphi. I plan to connect to it back in the harness so it's not noticeable. I'll power of the power block I installed and since the headlights come one when ever it's in gear I'll use that to switch a the power relay. I've got the two pieces of aluminum plate to build the main mount. I'll post pictures as things are finished, but I'm also trying to build my car so not always working on this install.
  9. capacitor to eliminate flicker and relay to take load of HID system instead of over loading stock headlight wiring.
  10. I didn't start this thread to argue for my choice to do with my engine in my truck. I don't want a lot more power in my 6000lb truck or I would have already removed the engine and done a complete build on it. I build and tune motors every day. I have done little to this truck as it's the only thing I don't have to fix, but I can't let it loose power and efficiency from a bad design. I just can't do it. I'm at 45000 miles and I've done other inductions system cleanings along the way yet I've noticed in the last 3000 miles it isn't in V4 as much and I've lost close to 1 MPG on my tanks. This is not a new mystery issue and all DI motors from every manufacturer has this issue, but one and it's because the do inject fuel in the intake just to keep the valves clean. Most people don't notice little things. Others I've seen at the races with a dead hole and didn't know. GM is likely betting on it will not go bad fast enough for 99% to notice and they know they will not have an issue within their extended warranty large enough to make them open up the motors so why not make more money. http://www.stingrayforums.com/forum/stingray-corvette-discussions/14048-catch-can-confusion-2-print.html The reason I started this thread was mostly hoping someone could help me with the MAF sensor part of this install. If someone else wants to do it I will put up pictures as well, but I will not be pulling it a part to confirm it works for at least 55000 miles unless the dealer has to open it up. Thanks for you help though.
  11. Post 901 or something is my write up of the FXR projectors and 55watt from TRS. Several pictures in my profile also that show how I did it without drilling a hole in anything but the dust caps before I made the larger dust caps. I'm still running the same type bulbs, but I'm going to try a higher end one next.
  12. The install isn't that bad. It's just a tank with a level sensor that I'm not going to install. Then a pump connects using quick connect hose like many ice makers use. The outlet goes to an injection nozzle. Then there is a controller with 4 wires. One goes to key on power, a ground, a MAF signal, and the pump power. You do also have to ground the pump with the controller. The active LED is powered with the pump. The level LED just goes to key power and ground. The level switch turns it on and off. Tuning is pretty easy as it goes by wheel horsepower or boost. The 6.2L is close to the lower and middle nozzle change, so I'll start with the small one and set it to come on late. Then increase it until is has a negative effect on performance before taking the step back. If it runs with the full on set real early I'll try the middle nozzle. The other stuff is just me wanting to drill zero holes like my HID install and have it removable while looking professional. As for the money. It's not very expensive to me. I got a great deal from a Vender of ours. It would cost the same to pull the heads of twice and manually clean the valves. Also, if I take it a part the warranty will likely be an issue even if I don't modify the motor, which I would while in there.
  13. I know it will add a little power and I can't say I'm not into that, but I'm doing this mostly for it keep my intake valves clean. I don't want any issues with the dealer, so my plan is to make and aluminum plate with an upright to bolt the components on. This will fit and bolt into the second battery tray, so one bolt and it lifts out. I want to tap into the MAF with a harness so it removes clean, but can't find an extension or the plug type used on the 8 wire MAF to make my own. Hoping someone can help with this as I figure there is likely a turbo kit or something that has to move it. Now that I think about it I don't know what wire provides the signal either to signal the controller (one more thing to figure). Next it won't install well on the stock intake some I'm going to get an aftermarket intake tube that I swap out when removing the other 2 things to have a completely stock look. Note, I know the laws, but I know there can be issues when people try to avoid paying for things so I'm going to avoid the issue until my warranty is gone and that is why I don't have a tune either. The last I need is wiring. It needs a key on power source so I'm hoping to there is any under hood source for that and I'll use a relay to draw from my power block. There are LED lights for low and pump running. I don't think I'll even install the level filter as I don't have a tune which needs this to avoid damage, but I would like to know when it's running. So I need to get one tiny wire into the cab if there is a a key on source in the engine compartment.
  14. Just saw a video on youtube where the guys axle hubs are not round and want to check that out next time I have a chance. Before that I've been thinking I'd take my shaft out and let PST check it for issues. Mine only shakes a little when my tires are not below the crazy stupid 10lb road force only needed for high end high speed cars before these trucks.
  15. I have the 55w with 6500k bulbs and my LED highs and fogs are 5k to match. I'd say the 55w kits get about a year before they are down to 35w output. I'm going to try better bulbs next time and see if I can get 2 years of crazy bright.

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