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FL335i last won the day on December 4 2016

FL335i had the most liked content!

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About FL335i

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  1. NHT is the code for the larger radiator. It's the max trailer package. I did find the part #, you can find it easily enough online with a GM parts lookup and it will give you two part #. No, I never did the swap for the NHT radiator. Can't say I've had the need. I've used the truck extensively in the 76k miles I've owned it and live in Florida. Truck never has gotten hot. I've pulled 30' trailers and all kinds of stuff. Just no need. I figure if I still own the truck when the radiator finally goes out, I'll swap in the NHT version then.
  2. Pics... The thermostat was clean, housing was clean. Everything looked clean except the plastic fantastic tank. Not only did it have build-up, but the plastic turned yellow. The tanks when new are WHITE/see-through plastic. I think the tanks are basically a 'serviceable item'. Becuase the Cap went bad also, i was loosing coolant and couldn't find the leak... it was the cap.
  3. Important info. our 2014+ Thermostat bolts call for 89 Inch/Lbs of torque. Credit to new dude.
  4. Thermostat came early! It is definitely a different part # than what my '14 originally came with. Did the Tstat and Coolant tank today. Topped it off, good to go for 3yrs/50k.
  5. Good update man. This is why I bought the $35 updated thermostat for my truck.... delivers Monday. I got the new coolant tank today in the mail.
  6. Mine went out in both seats in my '14 around 70k and 40 months. I'm not a big guy, 185 Lbs. Not like I'm tearing the seats up. I'm not fixing them. There is a company out there that sells aftermarket seat elements/pads. Not sure if they are covering the '14+ trucks yet. They have a you tube video out there and they're using a 2008 tahoe IIRC.
  7. Have not found any other bed to frame grounds other than the fuel filler neck. Again, I added my own bed to frame ground strap, sharing the frame bolt for the fuel filler neck ground. My headlight flickering BS is also fixed. So now the truck honks when I lock it and the headlights don't dim with the blinker. Curious to see if my SWR's are lower now. I still plan on running a ground wire from the battery negative terminal to the passenger side fender. know where I got that idea from.... Looked at the grounds on my '89 K5. It has a 10ga wire going from the neg post to the passenger fender along with the main wires to the block and frame.
  8. I've had the swing out case for about 1yr now. Love it. I must say though, when I saw the 2019 silverado side boxes, that's the ticket. I've sitting here thinking about how to build something like that and then I saw them in the '19!! Anyway, The swing out case is well built. It came with self tapping screw bolts. Of course, that doesn't sit well with me. I drilled the holes, removed the tail light and then used regular hex bolts and a flanged washer/Nut on the backside of the bed metal. And Used blue loctite. No chance of it pulling out now or vibrating loose. Yes I would buy them again.
  9. Tell you one thing, so far since I've done my ground and wiring connection cleaning, my horn honking while locking is back to working!!! For the past 2yrs when double pressing the lock button to make the horn honk, it would 90% of the time not honk. Or you had to press the button a million times for it to finally honk. I think the grounds were affecting the horn on short honks like when locking. I have yet to have it not honk while locking since the ground cleaning.
  10. Update. Today I found a frame ground on the driver side, behind the cab. It's a ground wire on a bed gusset. Wire runs from the frame up to the gas filler neck area. I took that one apart at the frame and cleaned the heck out of it also; removed the frame coating and sanded it up nicely. I made a 10ga wire that goes from that frame bolt to a bed mounting bolt about 6-8" away. Under the hood I made a 10ga wire up to go from the front of the driver side valve cover area to the LF fender by the fuse box. I plan on making one more and running it from the battery neg terminal to the RF fender. Calling it good.
  11. As for the interval.... The key while reading the manual is the 5yrs. If they are saying 5yrs... it's more like 3yrs/50k. or 3yrs 60k. I'm probably going to do the 3yrs or 50k whichever comes first.
  12. Donstar- I hook the hose my house's hot water heater once per year and flush it out. Tons of sediment. but that's not a closed system as it's supplied by miles of pipe from the water plant. And you are correct, i'm sure a service dept would not go through the efforts to flush and evacuate the system like I did. They would probably pull the drain plug and re-fill.
  13. Yesterday I decided to go through the electrical system on my truck being it's almost 4yrs old and has 75k on it. I cleaned up the battery terminals, took the positive battery distribution system apart, even took the hot wire off the alternator. Everything was cleaned, sanded with 320 sand paper, cleaned with electrical parts cleaner and put back together with dielectric grease. I'm glad I did this job because the stainless steel connections were starting to gall and it was extremely hard to remove the nuts. I was scared of snapping the stud off the alternator I used a pry bar to hold the wire lug in place while loosening the nut. I then followed the smaller ground wire from the battery to the passenger side chassis ground. Took it apart, clenaed the frame, wire bolt everything up. glad I did. the frame coating was in the way and hte wire connection was corroded pretty good. Again, everything was sanded, and cleaned with electrical parts cleaner and put back together with dielectric grease. Then wiped clean and sprayed with battery terminal protector spray. There is another ground wire on the driver side, behind the front wheel. Did the same thing to it. It also needed it. I checked the entire frame for more connections and could not see any. Now my High SWR readings from my CB antenna mounted in the middle of the roof make sense! There is literally no ground wires from the frame to the body anywhere except under the hood. By the brake booster there is a ground strap going from the fire wall to the block. I am going to add some ground wires, connecting the body to the frame. I'm thinking adding grounds from the frame to both the bed and box, right behind the cab, on both passenger and driver side. And adding a wire from the engine block to the firewall/fenders.
  14. As stated, I did a coolant flush at 75k on my '14. Few lessons being the first time doing this on the newer K2XX trucks. 1- The owners manual states 5yrs or 150k, whichever occurs first for a coolant change. I'm at 75.5k and 41 months. Even that was too long of an interval. I've been running an external coolant filter which I change the filter every year, but even so, the one compartment of the coolant bottle toward the back of the truck, had crusty 'stuff' built up on the walls. I took the tank out and hose it out beyond belief but could not get it 100% clean. The tank overall had a film on the inside. Similar to algae on the inside of a fish tank that needs cleaning. I bought a new ACDelco tank last night online. Moral of the story here is the overflow tank probably needs removed and hosed out probably every 12 - 18 months to keep this build-up at bay. 5yrs/150k my arse. The barnacle like crap was at the liquid level line. The algae layer was throughout. Hosing the tank out cleaned the algae film but the barnacles would not come out. Plus the one compartment you cannot hose out. It's a baffled compartment. Hence the new tank. 2- Even though I check the coolant for electrolysis at every oil change, it doesn't mean much with dexcool from what I have seen. That is not a good indicator of it's performance. My truck's coolant even up to yesterday before the change showed almost no electrolysis voltage at all; literally 0.03V. I have the same coolant kit on both my '14 and my '89 K5 Jimmy. I change both filters at the same interval, 1yr. On my K5 it works like a champ. Cleaning up the system, picking up debris etc. But that truck is running Prestone Green, not dexcrap. And the underside of the coolant filter base is clean as a whistle in the K5. Yesterday I noticed while taking the coolant filter off my '14, the underside of the filter base was heavily corroded. To the point where I removed my coolant filter system from my '14 due to the heavy corrosion of the coolant filter base. The filter base is carbon steel. I painted the exterior of them flat black, but obviously the inside portion where the filter mattes to it is uncoated steel. Again, the K5's is clean steel 2yrs in the making. The 14's looked horrific. So rather than buying a $27 coolant filter every year for my '14 I will put that money toward doing coolant flushes more frequently. But the point here is the DexCool was so weak in the anti-corrosion department the filter base steel corroded to S**T. So that's all the proof I need for 5yr 150k mile coolant. 3- The radiator drain plug is very accessible on the passenger side, under the lower hose so you do not have to remove the lower hose like on other vehicles. What I did learn is you have to remove both heater core hose from the block on the front right part of the engine. This is the only way to remove the water from the block. Also remove the coolant tank as the rear-ward compartment will not drain. I even removed the 1" hose from the coolant tank, that compartment still holds water. So remove the tank and drain all the water out of it and remove the heater hoses from the block. THEN I used a 6HP shop-vac to suck the water out of the block from both heater connections at the block. I shopvaced everything out. Block, coolant 1" supply hose, you name it. I pulled about 2-3 gallons of water out of the system by doing that. The radiator only will drain about 1-1.5 gallons. 4- For flushing, I put the garden hose in the overflow tank for clean water supply. Remove the radiator drain plug completely. The Tstat overflow 5/16" gets disconnected from the coolant tank and dumps on the ground. Turn the hose on just enough to keep the water level stable in the tank. Run the truck to get it up to operating temp and make the T-stat open. Turn heater on, fan on low speed. I ran the truck for about 20 minutes like this with some 2,500rpm runs to help warm it up and push water through the system. 5- See Item # 3 for ensuring the system is evacuated and you've removed all the water. Then fill with 50/50 Prestone Dexcool. I buy it at walmart for $12/gal vs $20/Gal ACDelco stuff online. After seeing the terrible performance the factory coolant did protecting the coolant filter base steel, I see no reason to buy the ACDelco coolant. Prestone has never performed bad for me. So moving forward I will be removing the coolant tank and hosing it out to prevent barnacles. The complete flush and fill will go no longer than 3yrs/36k as with green stuff recommended intervals. Lesson learned.
  15. Hence the early intro of the 2019 truck. Mine has a slight vibration at 75+. I had a local drive line shop balance the shaft which made it a lot better, but it's still there. I also personally helped and witnessed my tires get RF'd. It's not the tires. I've had it with two sets of tires and three or four balance jobs. All at the same speed. Mine is livable, but i'm not thrilled about it as I drive a lot on the hwy for a living. Walk away from a lemon law truck, OR, OR.... if you are feeling brave and stupid, you can ask to borrow the truck for an entire weekend. Do some good highway driving. If you can live with it, AND get a smoking financial deal take it. My next step is to replace the rear axle shafts with Yukon. I found a guys on you tube that did it and said it fixed his vibration, i am not able to 100% verify that though. But the axle shafts are next on my list.

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