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About thefishhawk

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  • Location
    Denver, CO
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  • Drives
    2014 Silverado LTZ Z71 Brownstone Crew 3.42
  1. that looks like someone with a buffer got too aggressive. is it on both? or maybe if others have it, it is a manufacturing issue. I'd probably try to get them to replace it, looks scratched.
  2. Definitely, I had a big nest in mine. Dead mouse is a pretty distinctive smell lol
  3. I wrote that yesterday and wasn't signed in and it got lost LOL......if you like your truck don't worry about it, you aren't missing anything. Not to devalue the feeling of getting mislead about what it was, but as far as the truck you won't miss the HDC. It works totally spotty and I don't trust it, old-school using 4lo is better. I've only used it a handful of times to play with it around Moab, and I offroad quite a bit. It needs to be improved for sure. The other poster was talking about grade braking, which is often confused with hill descent control. HDC is low speed off road or short icy stretch down a bad driveway or something, grade braking you'll still have and is used when going down a long highway descent type stretch, so that's why it helps when towing. Uses the engine and lower gears to maintain speed instead of frying the brakes.
  4. I'd get an odd smell occasionally when I first turn it on, took it in for scheduled maintenance/recalls a couple days ago, had a nice mouse nest buried back inside the vents/cabin filter. Maybe something crawled in there while you were parked.
  5. Better tire choice for stock

    another vote for the Defenders. they will do everything you need them to do other than look cool ;-)
  6. center console here, consistent problem, it's in the latch. at first I took a file and took a bit off the latch and that would work for awhile, but then I ended up lining the receiver part with black duct tape and that's done the trick. It kept making me think it was on the edges or somewhere else but it always came back to the latch. Pretty much anywhere plastic hits plastic on this truck will creak at some point.
  7. Try it out and see what you think but I'm with SSG85...the thing is a clicking, ticking, jerking mess. And I've had it turn itself off in the middle of a hill more than once. Went back to just old school using 4 low if I need that kind of control on a descent. Idea is good, but it needs some work. it would be interesting to find out how it compares to Toyota's.
  8. no idea....the sides are a bit slanted and then you have the curve of the sides to the bed. I rough cut mine then hit the ends with a sander to get it just right. Cut the bottom corners at a 45 so I didn't have to mess with the curve. Then I painted it with some house paint I had around. It will definitely stay in there nice and tight and snug without any help with the slant of the bed sides providing compression if you cut/sand/trial and error it down to fit your truck.
  9. tons of cushion built into this computer if you have/need to keep driving after Low comes on. I normally get the light with 4 gallons left, that's 15% of tank, at least 50-60 miles left. May not be ideal, but sometimes things happen and you need to know when worried to be about it.
  10. what you need to watch out for is those rigid mud guards. when they hit rocks they'll kick up into the metal and also crack the paint. mine had to come off pretty quick. doesn't take too long to remove that dang air dam. I haven't been too happy with the descent control, seems to like to turn itself off in the middle of a hill or kick out a code for no reason and all the racket; or suddenly brake for no reason. old school just putting it in 4-lo seems to work better while maintaining more driver control.
  11. I had the same problem and it's super annoying! you can stick a towel down behind the seat back in the meantime to stop it from flopping around. There's a metal strip retainer thing on the back of the seat back that slides through a d-loop that's also metal attached to the cab when the seat bottom is put up and down. if the seat joint hardware gets loose the seat back gets loose and they hit each other. There's more play in the seat back when the seat bottom is up since it pulls the seat back away from the cab slightly. I had them replace the seat joint hardware since the ones on the showroom floor don't move if they are up or down. They will also put plastic retainer/liner things on the d-loop part to buffer the metal on metal contact. it's possible if you already had the plastic piece it just fell off but I don't think they figured that part out until later on, mine's a '14. It doesn't take long to unbolt and pull the seat if you want to see if it's back there first.
  12. a bunch of camping gear isn't really loaded down, I would just leave them.
  13. Yeah, i meant swap the tire as in use the rubber to replace the bad tire, ie. swap the rubber between the rims, and just use the crap one for a spare.
  14. You won't have any problem unless it rains. The SRA's do suck but the Auto 4wd setting generally more than makes up for their lack of traction when you need it. I decided to wait until I trashed them to upgrade and have been 100's of miles offroad and light duty towing. 100 mile trips off road in Moab, towing a raft trailer across the west, towing a small camper through the mountains, rock strewn roads over the continental divide in CO camping, never had to change a tire. after 25k I have a leak in the outer part of the tread that can't be fixed so now I'm about done, but I got a year and half out of them. Couldn't believe it when I found out I couldn't just swap the spare since the rims are different sizes. Weird stuff they cut corners on. Think I'm going to the KO2's next and would never willingly buy the SRA's, but I think for most people with normal use they can get by ok.

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