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Silverado_dood

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About Silverado_dood

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  1. Mine was replaced under warranty, so it was free. From what I understand, it's a sign the booster is going to fail, so I think you'll probably want to get it fixed.
  2. I had the same thing on my 2014, they had to replace the brake booster.
  3. I've run 275/70/18 on my 2014 with a 2.5" lift. No issues with rubbing at all. I would think you'd be fine.
  4. This is what it currently looks like, a year later.... multiple trips to the lake, off roading,and around 15000 miles of my fat but in it.
  5. In my pictures, there was still some fluffing and pulling to do. Also it was about 30 degrees in that garage.... so the leather was really stiff. It tightened up nicely.
  6. Only a couple of pics available. This is the drivers seat minus headrest. They are thicker than factory leather (dealer tech confirmed that after doing some work on the seat)
  7. I installed them myself, install probably took around 15 hours total (first time I've done seats). Probably could have cut several hours off that, but I went very slowly and carefully and rewatched the videos several times during the install. I didn't need anything terribly special, trim tools are nice to have to get to some of the clips, good pair of scissors for the holes you have to cut out, torx bits. Hardest part for me was the clips in the foam that hold the covers down. They'll rip out if you aren't careful, there's somewhat of an "art" to get them to let go and put them back on, you just have to be really careful until you get the feel for it. Oh yeah, there's a ton of pushing on the foam involved... be prepared for the forearm workout of your life. All your questions are answered in the video if you get it from 1godan from ebay (they have a website, seatsrus I think). Trickiest parts are probably the headrests simply because they are extremely tight and the jumpseat, pay very close attention to how it comes apart and goes back together. The rear cupholders come out to put the leather on them. Biggest tip/time saver - I tried to save the old cloth off of my seats, so I did my best not to damage it. Screw it - just cut that crap up.
  8. These are mine... the standard matte finish from N-Fab. I pulled the orange stickers off and put on some tread tape, they really work well. And these steps do go down quite a bit, they help my 6 yo get in much easier.
  9. Not the greatest shot of the wheels, but here you go. I'm happy with them, very nice looking, and somewhat different that what everyone else has. The black does blend in from a distance, but looks awesome up close. And yes, thats a Silverado... imagine a GMC front end ;-)
  10. Here's a picture of my truck with the N-Fab wheel to wheel (sorry, not the best angle). I like them, the step is just fine for getting in, if it were further back it would be hard to swing your other leg in. It takes a little getting used to getting out though. I do wish they didn't stick down quite so much (and I do have the 2.5" leveling kit on there), but they work well. They are very tough (much tougher than the cab of the truck), I did take the slick, gaudy orange N-Fab stickers off the step part and put on no-skid tape.
  11. You can "Do it yourself" and hoseclamp to your hearts content... but if the lower seat needs replacing, it needs replacing. The hose clamp won't work because the problem is the clip you have your hose clamp up against is broken. Instead of being able to replace that plastic clip, they have to replace the seat frame. You can usually tell if the clip is broken by lifting up on the seat, one side will go up quite a bit further than the other.
  12. Looking at the website you pointed to and the price, I seriously doubt they are genuine GM parts, they are probably the same ones going for about the same price on eBay. Nice mirrors from what I've read, but not official GM parts (with GM warranty, which is usually 1 year, not the "10 year guarantee" on the website. Glad you like them and they don't shake, I may wind up going that route on my truck.
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