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frenchsquared last won the day on January 13 2015

frenchsquared had the most liked content!

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About frenchsquared

  • Rank
    Gear Head
  • Birthday 01/17/1978

Profile Information

  • Name
    Gordon French
  • Location
    United States
  • Gender
  • Drives
    2018 Sierra RCSB, 2015 Z28, 1996 Corvette, and more...
  • Interests
    road courses, horsepower, car shows

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  1. I used the VIN from the last Chevy I sold. New truck is a GMC. I have owned 5 new Chevys and at least a 100 used ones. Hell I have 6 or 7 right now.
  2. Your misled. The rebates and incentives are removed from the invoice price and can be applied to an ordered car. Sorry... but I know way to many guys who own car dealerships. Close friends who know way more then a blog. If you read that article... I covered everything in it. Invoice plus 500 and all rebates. Most people don't research the rebates. I had 3 dealership tell me last week there is no $2500 rebate for owning a new toyota. When there is. These dealers would have kept that money as there profit or simply let it slip. Had I gotten a Chevy I would have gotten the $2500 Toyota rebate. No idea why GM offered it, but its there. Buyer just has to do there home work. The trick is actually finding all the rebates and the invoice price. Every single car sold has a base price called an invoice. Believe it or don't. Wont bother me either way.
  3. Then your looking a the wrong invoice. I grew up in car dealerships (really). Dad managed 32 Ford stores. I learned to drive in a brand new truck and was doing dealer trades at 16 with the invoice and titles in my hands. There is a real invoice that is to the penny what the dealer pays for the truck. In the last 10 years customer invoices have started to show up and they are fictional. But the real invoice is dead set to the cent.
  4. Can you get one from a junk yard and fix it yourself? I know that sucks... but I wold do it rather then going without my truck for however long.
  5. '16 Silverado LTZ

    People only post about the bad stuff. Think about how many trucks are sold and compare that to how many individual users on this site. Way more trucks are good then bad. These trucks should last 10 years and 250,000 miles with no issues. Yes, some stuff happens but as a rule they are fine. I had a 99 with 280,000 miles. It did get a new tranny in that time frame but my dad pulled 12,000 pounds with it over a few passes and across several states. My dad killed the tranny not GM. Just sold a 2004 that ran perfect. Truck was rusted to heck but that was the original owners fault. Had a 2010 with 60k miles on it. I had it 2 years with no issues at all. I put 40,000 miles on a 2015 over 2 years and had no real issues. Truck shook a little but this forum helped me figure out a solution to that.
  6. I posted this back when I got my 2015 in the shake thread. The leaf spring clamps moved the speed at which the wobble/shake happened. It moved from something around 66 to 75. I was much happier as I drive 66 to 70 all the time on the roads around here. I tried in front, behind, very tight, slightly tight and everything effected it. Nothing made it go away. To tight the truck was rougher riding and the shake was worse. Drive line was fine, u-bolt were tight but I had a lift kit on my truck. I changed those a few days after I bought it. 2015, RCSB, 4x4 3" Leveling Kit
  7. I go to open the tailgate and hear a pop and the gate slams open To me that sounds like your letting go of the tail gate. If that is the case and your dropping the tail gate I would suspect the extra stress. Mine held up the 2 years I had the 2015 but it was clearly did not work as well as when I got the truck. To me it a cheap as gimmick. Like a stupid rubber grommet is ever going to hold up.
  8. That doesn't look like rust protection. It looks like a paint protectant.
  9. Thanks guys, will be reading more about Krown.
  10. Its not the same as rolling dice. You can look at past years. GM often offers rebates at the same times each year. With a little research you can do much better then a crap shoot. I have been asking people lately about ordering trucks and it seems meany people do not know it is even possible to just order what you want. As for negotiating the best price before them thats easy. There is no real negotiating, never pay more then 500 over invoice and no dealer handling fees. If you cannot get that move to the next dealer. Once in a while you can find a fleet guy that will do $100 over but thats not always worth the effort.
  11. I am a few years behind the times... I dont like Focal. Never heard of herts and I have never used JL mids. I live there AMPs and Subs. I will be using JL sub and 5-channel amp in my Sierra.
  12. MB Quarts if you don't care about price. I love Kickers DS's for quality and price. I have them in several cars. They take a ton of power and sound great. I will be putting them in my Sierra after it arrives. Alpine makes a 10" replacement head unit and yes you need an amp. You should go into the shop and listen to the speakers. What you think sounds great might be different then the shops. Example a lot of shops like Alpine Type R's. I flipping hate them. They have a terrible tin sound and many people online will agree. You need to think about what type of sound you like, what type of music and then narrow it down to a few brands. I design systems different for the type of car based on what music I will listen to in that car. My 1989 Mazda B2200 mini truck has a way different system then my 1996 Corvette. Yet, my 2015 Z28 has a system very similar to that of the 1996 Corvette and i plan to upgrade it more this summer.
  13. You have to time the order just right. The deals/offers/tags are based on the day you buy it not order it. So the dealer will give you whatever is available from GM the day your truck arrives. You have to play the guessing game and decide how long it will take your truck to get built, and how long to ship then try to order so it falls in the window you want. There can be additional deals if a car ages out. Meaning if it sits on the lot around 90 days. But if they sit to long those go away. For example a 2017 RCSB cost more then a 2018RCSB right now because it sat past the rebates. I tried buying a 2017 last week. Dealer was hell bent on getting more then a 2018 that was also on his lot. I moved on. An ordered truck wont get those deals since it wont age out. These are specifically up to the dealer. Small dealers often need the cash and will blow out a car. Large dealers don't care and will let the car sit. of course there are always exceptions. I have seen dealers that I worked for turn the aged out trucks into there parts truck. They just keep them rather then blow them out at a loss. I got my 2015 Z28 for around $38,000 off MSRP because the dealer had the car for over a year and wanted it gone. The dealer actually lost money. After 180 days the dealer has to actually pay for the car and they basically own it. Under 90 days the dealers kinda gets the car for free. After 90 days they often have to pay "rent". Those days are an estimation and can change from dealer to dealer, brand to brand but they work to make my point.

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