Chimes come from both driver side door and driver side dash. Don't over amplify and run the amp with the gain all the way down.
Don't let the amp scare you, very easy to do. But yes, I wouldn't swap speakers without adding an amp. Factory stereo doesn't sound that bad for normal listening levels.
Regarding the amp install: Installed behind glovebox. Relatively simple install. You buy two Metra connector sets, one goes into head unit to amp, other goes from amp to factory wiring harness. No need to run a separate power wire either, just tap the head unit power wire. Search Alpine or Metra will bring up the discussions. For chime volume, just turn the gain on the amp all the way down. On the compact inline amps, turning gain to lowest position doesn't turn it off. On a scale of 0-10, lowest setting is still about a 2. Even with gain on amp all the way down, head unit played up to about 50-60% volume will be very loud and about as far as you'd want to run the factory head unit before sound starts getting dirty.
I put Alpine Ty-R 6x9's in front doors and a set of Kenwood 7" Excelons in the rears. I di install an inline Alpine 45x4 amp. Also changed the dash speakers to Sundown Audio Sa275. Sound quality in my truck is exceptional. Have had a couple different audio shops listen for their opinion, both were impressed.
Right converter for the setup does not do that. 9.5" or 10" converter set up to stall at 3000 or higher absolutely would suck in a truck. 12"-13" towing converter set up to stall at 2200-2400 will not. Worse thing you can do is install a bigger cam with a stock converter. To each his own. Just making suggestions on first hand experience. Forget I even mentioned a higher stall converter. What the OP should do is go ahead, install a cam with a lumpy idle, then we can sit back and wait for the new threads to appear. "Help, can't get motor to idle in gear"; "Help, changed cam, truck is slower" http://www.coanracing.com/converters.html
I understand that John, just wanted to input that when dealing with the weight of a truck it takes a large power increase to notice a difference. First thing I would do (don't laugh) is higher stall converter. I had Coan build me a 2600 stall towing converter for one of the 454 builds for the Chevelle. Was great, allowed the motor to get into the fat of the power curve a lot quicker then very little slippage. Not saying you need to spend big money on a converter, but if you've ever ran an automatic with a higher stall, you'd know what I mean. Not talking about a 9.5" racing converter, but a good 11" unit. That's absolutely something to be considered, especially if you want to install a little more cam.
Looked at it, overall pretty good condition. Maybe for $28-29K I'd consider it. We'll see how desperate they are to move it.
You're going to spend a bunch of money and barely notice any power increase. Anything less than 100 hp increase in a full size truck, you'll barely notice the difference. Give you an example. Had a '69 Chevelle SS (4,000# car). First motor was a 396 putting out about 400HP. Ran ok but nothing special. Swapped that out to a 454 putting out 500HP. Now we're getting somewhere. Next up was 468" motor pushing 575HP. Basically ran the same ET/MPH as the 500HP motor, little faster, but surprisingly that extra 75 HP wasn't night and day. Last iteration was a 540" BBC dyno'd at 705HP. Now that made a difference. Point being, when you say you really want to add some power think 100HP. JMHO.
Truth is, I have done very well, do have assets, but do not like to spend money freely, some will call me a scrounge, others recognize it as frugal. That's why I am considering a used truck instead of running out and dropping $50K on a new one.
Truckguy82, confronted the dealer on this, they said it got a new trans in Sept 2017. I'd be ok with that. Donstar, Were you talking to my wife? Exactly what she said. Only thing I would be gaining with a different truck would be going to a CC from the DC. I can count on one hand number of times anyone road in the back seat of my DC. Reality is, I have the 2500HD LT that I drive daily. Now that's a truck. Sounds like a truck, drives like a truck, really gotten used to the power of the 6.0 with 3.73 gears. The '15 is washed and parked in the garage.
GRN69CHV replied to SILVER SLED's topic in 2014 / 2015 / 2016 / 2017 / 2018 Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra 1500I'm in similar situation. '15 DC, 5.3 4x4. Want to get into CC, 6.2 4x4. Going to buy though. I've been looking for Certified off lease vehicles, far and few between though. Almost pulled the plug an '18 100 Year Anniversary edition, just having a hard time dropping $50K on a truck that will just sit in the garage 90% of the time.
My '15 Silverado DC 5.3, 6 spd, 3.08 LT is leased. Lease is up in 2 months. Buyout is $24,000, truck is in pretty good shape but I'd really rather have a crew cab. Dealer near me has '15 Silverado Crew LTZ, with the 6.2L, 8spd , Max Tow , factory 20" wheels (I am assuming this by the fact it has the 6.2L and the tow mirrors), has 30,000 miles on it, priced at $34,000. Truck pretty much has everything I want except it is a bench seat which I could swap out if it came to it. Can't seem to touch a newer one for anything less than low-mid 40's used or 50K new or used trucks are mine and have a lot more miles. I don't tow anything, just want the power. Thoughts? Saw the Carfax report. It is a GM buy back vehicle. Customer complaints about the 8 spd transmission. What exactly was so bad with these transmissions?
GRN69CHV replied to Pythonman's topic in 2014 / 2015 / 2016 / 2017 / 2018 Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra 1500MIchelin Defender LTX MS, 275/65-18. Mine has a 1" front end lift, but would fit fine at stock ride height. Great tire.
While not optimal, I've gotten used to the 3.08 gearing in my '15 DC. Running a 275/65-18 Michelin Defender LTX (32 diameter). You have a couple options, #1, you can live with it and there are ways around this. If you run the truck in M5, it will only shift to 5th gear which not only eliminates the 5-6 gear hunting at lower speeds but also overrides the V4 mode. I ran mine like this for first 15,000 miles. #2 You can drive it in Tow/Haul mode all the time. This allows it to run in/out of V4 AFM mode but runs the shifts points up. I ran mine in both M5 and Tow-Haul. #3, you can tune the V4 AFM out completely with a handheld tuner. This will also help with the sluggish response as the motor/trans search endlessly for 5th or 6th gear and V8/V4 mode. #4 You can swap gears (about a $2,000 proposition). Point being, if you are running stock tires or one size larger, it's really not that bad, trans has deep enough gearing to compensate for daily driving.
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