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sk1er18

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About sk1er18

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    central NJ
  1. I honestly think the 295 RTs will look better than the 305 AT2s. And being slightly shorter will make more of the aggressive tread visible in the wheel well with the 2" lift, and the width difference won't be noticeable. You also forgot to tell everyone you're getting aftermarket wheels (20x9 +18mm?) which changes how they'll fit.
  2. There's not that big of a weight difference. 295 AT2 is 61 lb vs 64 lb for the RT 305 AT2 is 62 lb vs 67 lb for the RT Tread depth is almost the same... 16.3/32 for AT2 and 16.4 for RT. If you're worried about weight and fitment, and gas mileage, but still want a more aggressive look, the 295/55/20 RT's seem like the best bet. I feel like we've had this discussion ;)
  3. Any cyclist out there?

    Yeah but i'm primarily a mountain guy. I have a gravel grinder with roadie wheelset for hitting the tarmac with friends, but only do that every once in a while.
  4. Will need to get tow mirrors for pulling a travel trailer, but want to keep my powerfold option for fitting in the garage. Any speculation from some of the aftermarket companies if they'll be making them for our trucks? Looks like they make them for the newer model.... I don't see how GMT900's were missed; there has to be a market there
  5. Toyo open country at2 aren't quiet!

    I have both tires, right now. The AT2s are smooth and quiet, whereas the P3s were a pain to balance and much more rough & noisy than the Toyos. I was a Mickey fan and loved the first gen ATZs that I ran on my Sierra. With that said, the Toyo AT2s have crappy wet and winter traction as compared to the original Toyo ATs that I had prior. Currently running both tires and I can tell you neither will be run again. Looking elsewhere for my next set.
  6. GMC bicycle

    Twist shift on the bars and brakes in the drops.... that's a weird combo. Most hybrid road/adventure setups have brakes & shifters in the drops with a second set of brake levers on the bars for when riding in a more relaxed position.
  7. It's been a few years since I've been active with lifting GM trucks, but I was very well versed when I was. I'm back with a Yukon XL 2500, because although my Commander is a 7 seater and has the 5.7L, it just doesn't have room for my family+cargo, nor the towing capacity for a good sized travel trailer. I did my research and will be ordering my lift very soon (as soon as a friend of mine buys my Jeep). Not looking for a massive lift or a show rig, just some better clearance for 33s, which i'm already running with some carefully done trimming. .... so here's what I've come up with: I want NTBD. For the 2500's, there aren't many options. But that's OK because I want to go with one of the better quality kits for this rig. It seems like the Cognito 4-6" NTBD is the way to go. Yes, I could also use the cognito NTBD adapters with other lifts, but then the price is right there if I would have just ordered the Cognito from the start (that option seems better for those with kits already installed and want to get their bars tucked away). I already have adjustable Fox resi shocks that'll work for the rear. I want adjustable shocks for the front, which means i'm limited to ordering a custom set of Fox's, or going with Rancho 9000XLs. To keep the initial costs down, I think I'm going to put on the Rancho's and keep the stock UCA's for the time being. So the UCA's... I want to get the Cognito boxed UCA's, since I really don't want to snap a stock balljoint (i know they're a weak link on these vehicles) when i'm down at OBX riding on the beach. But due to the travel they allow, they must be paired with the Cognito spec'd Fox shocks which are designed to limit suspension travel (or limiting straps). Since we're not going to OBX this summer, I figure the UCA upgrade with Fox shocks could wait until next year, and I can add the C/D adjuster to the front Fox resi shocks. Well, that's the plan.... anything I may have missed? Are there other options i've overlooked? Thanks
  8. They called me up the day I dropped it off and said they had to wait until the following day to verify if they were covered. So they definitely checked something... The certified bumper to bumper is supposed to cover everything the original bumper to bumper covers (but for only 12 months). After that it's only the powertrain warranty extension
  9. So just a quick update. After a few more conversations my issue was getting elevated to the regional manager, but it would be a few days before a decision would be made. Called them up and said I'll pick my truck up Monday since I don't want it sitting there while this drags out. Got a call back a few hours later saying it's all taken care of, everything's covered and it'll be ready Monday. Maybe the headlights are considered critical for safety so they're covered for liability reasons?
  10. I've been tapering off, especially as my kids are getting beyond the toddler stages and want to do more activities on the weekends. This particular time of year is tough though because I mentor a high school robotics team, and January through March is their core season.
  11. That's the plan now. I have 4 kids and do a lot of volunteering outside of work so my time is limited. It was nice thinking I could have something fixed under warranty, I can't remember ever dropping a vehicle off and picking it up when it's done... wanted to know what it feels like! Lol New headlights are already installed.
  12. Its been a good vehicle so far. Lots of people like swapping vehicles every 5 years Other than the headlights (which they replaced) and the passenger side defrost, it's been solid.
  13. By that logic, almost nothing would be covered. This warranty is supposed to protect you for 12months as if you bought a brand new vehicle. Your window stops going up and down, your seat motor stops working, your hvac stops working within your new vehicle bumper to bumper warranty period and youll be fine calling it "normal wear"? Not talking about pulsing brakes, a tire vibration issue, or something of the sort.
  14. This'll be like that movie where you see the ending first, then get the story. It's been a while since i've posted here (for no reason other than i've been out of a GM vehicle for the past few years, until last August), and really need to vent. Just got a call from the service department that has my Yukon, and after talking to the GM CPO rep, they confirmed my heating actuator is not covered under warranty. I didnt ask for confirmation, I asked them to clarify "why", because it should be rewind Purchased my CPO 2012 Yukon XL back in August. Flew out to Ohio to buy it, and one of the big selling points was the CPO warranty. Honestly the drivetrain warranty i could care less about, it's the 12month/12,000 Bumper to Bumper that i was interested in for once I found out which knicknacks weren't working that was bugging the previous owner. Sure enough, two issues I noticed after a bit of driving... the moisture in both headlights, and the passenger defroster doesn't work very well (low airflow). So i put almost 5k miles on it and schedule my first of 2 oil changes that also come with the CPO vehicles. Good news, the headlights are covered. Then i'm told that the defroster isnt working because one of the heating actuators isn't functioning properly, but that it's not covered under CPO warranty and the repair is around $1200, BUT they can help me out and do it for $900 Here are the parameters for the bumper to bumper warranty from GM CPO website Now the service adviser has been a good dude, so i'm calm with him. I find out that he puts the part number into a system and that tells him if its covered or not. OK, no problem, I'll call GM CPO customer service and get to the bottom of this. Call last night, explain the issue, get a case #, and they say they'll call the dealer in the AM. Cool, feeling pretty good now Get a call right before I leave work, its the dealer. Service adviser tells me that the rep called, and "confirmed" the part isnt covered . I think the dude feels bad, because now he drops the price down to $599 (i used to be a tech, i know how "book time" vs "actual repair time" work.... and have no heartburn, there were jobs that I was able to do in half the time after i was experienced too). But now it's a matter of principle. How the hell is a heating actuator excluded from CPO bumper to bumper warranty? I called back and followed up with an E-mail, and waiting to hear back from the GM CPO rep again. Now, worst case they tell me to go pound sand... do I spend the $600, or try to do it myself. Really torn here. Since I had the warranty I didn't bother looking into it myself, so i'm not sure if this actuator will take mean hour to replace, or four. I'm guessing there's a trick to getting to it without having to take the dash out based on how much the dealer dropped the price for me...
  15. The case and internals are different but the shift motors likely function very similar (I know both have similar encoder sensors). Its possible the electronics come from the same company and GM is playing a bit of CYA. Just be cautious with this one. I wouldn't be the first in line at the dealership to get the update. Currently there's no fix from the jeep side so people are calling junkyards to get pre-recall modules and putting them in.
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