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About sefiroxx

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    05 Sierra

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  1. You'll need a test light or a meter. A wiring diagram to determine if the power or ground are switched and which blade is what (brakes, turn, etc) . You will also need a guaranteed ground, which might take a long wire back to the battery negative. Testing takes isolating each wire and testing an alternate route. (Ie test power on all time through the ground blade and direct to battery. Etc, etc, etc
  2. You can rent a pressure test guage from one of auto parts chains
  3. Truck stalls when cold

    Check water temp sensor as well, it might be reading warm (when cold) causing the ecu to think the engine is warmed up.
  4. Ran valvoline, then valvine high mileage and now full synthetic high mileage with wix. Had gotten to 350k on 01 burb, but with so many leaks - decided to replace with a rebuilt.
  5. Check fuel pressure at the rail on initial key turn. If slow to pressure up, then fuel filter may be clogged.
  6. A properly filled system will have a resting (static) pressure in 70-100 range (depending on temperature). Initial guage hookup will tell you of the system is full, low or out.
  7. Check wiring and hose connection first. If good, then replace valve.
  8. Welcome to electrical problems. Try putting the halogens back in on the left side to see if the rapid blinking stops (likelie led resistor problem) and try putting the left side leds into the right side (specific bulb problem). If the rapid blinking doesn't move, then you might have a slight short on the right side that is allowing the leds to work without a resistor. Better leds have a resistor built into the bulb to allow for operation with older vehicles.
  9. Typically the evap solonoid valve problem. It's located on top front passenger side of intake manifold. It opens at certain rpms to allow fumes to pulled from the canister.
  10. Did you check the lines with the clutch engaged? If yes, then you have a leak as the system would not engage the clutch under low pressure scenario. If not, try again with clutch engaged. If the lines are cold/hot, then likely a failed pressure sensor. Bbuuttt, you'll need a set of guages to accurately diagnose.
  11. Leak in the evap system is causing leak conditions (ie vacuum leak). Check gas cap, fuel lines especially line leading to the evap solonoid (top, front, passenger side of intake man) from the canister found underneath by fuel tank, and fuel vapor lines leading to fill.
  12. Truck stalls when cold

    Had the exact same problem with 01 4wd Burb. Replaced the IAC, runs like a champ now. Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
  13. Closer inspection shows the case has a ridge that sticks out about mm from under the corroded part, formed when the case was poured and so original. Might have been one of those GM fast assembly gimics (ie, snap in heater hoses) Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
  14. WHich plugs are you using. GM changed the spark gap requirements for iridium plugs (smaller) Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
  15. 1)Did you put a timing light on each of the plug wires? 2) With a high end scanner, you can cycle each cylinder on/off while monitoring the idle RPM. It should drop 40-50 when a cylinder is turned off. You should unplug the spark plug or disconnect the fuel injector. If a cylinder doesn't drop rpm's, then you'll need to investigate on more detail. (E.g. Stuck injector) 3) A noid light is used to confirm if an injector is getting a signal. 4) If you have a failed compression, then blow by gases are leaking into the coolant, or are losing coolant or are losing oil through the pcv due to excess oil fumes being pushed to the intake. Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

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