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davester

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About davester

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  • Drives
    2004 Sierra 3500 C&C

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  1. You can't tell by looking if there is water in the brake fluid. It will draw moisture from the air. When you wrote "The reservoir is and was full of fluid.", that would mean you drained some fluid out of the master cylinder when you did this, as it would be over-full afterwards, if it was full prior to changing your pads. It's possible when you used the c-clamps to push the pistons back that you wedged the pistons in their bores. But that would still give you a hard pedal if everything else was working properly. I would suggest flushing your brake system (as in suck out most of the fluid in the master cylinder, fill with new fluid, then bleed/refilled MC all 4 corners).
  2. What do you mean by "doors self unlock with the key"? Is there a lock on the passenger door that you can use the key with? Because having the electric switches on the armrest is part of having power locks (at least as far as I know). Maybe you have to go to the dealer to program the truck to the fob.
  3. Are you sure you have power locks then? Because those switches go with power locks... And no power locks means nothing for the fob to activate...
  4. Would be a good time to do the rear brake line with the tank down... Or if you have boards as a flatbed on it, removing the boards also works really good. For my truck, the wood was screwed to the deck, so it was a pain to remove (basically had to cut up the boards, then cut off the screws). I switched to clamping new boards to the deck, and now it's just a couple minutes to undo the clamps and pull the boards out to work inside the frame rails...made doing my fuel pumps and brake lines much easier.
  5. One of the computers in the truck (probably the BCM) monitors the fuel levels of both tanks, and automatically pumps fuel from the rear tank to the front tank as necessary. I've read on other forums that it tries to keep the rear tank at approximately the same level as the front tank, but I don't know that for sure. The fuel gauge indicates how full both tanks are. Dorman's set probably isn't for a cab&chassis (rear axle is narrower than both the SRW and DRW trucks with pickup beds). The GM OEM ones are nylon-coated steel, and don't come with the lines for the rear axle, and GM doesn't sell those lines. You basically have to fabricate it yourself.
  6. Do the item's the pulley turns also spin nicely (alternator, water pump, PS pump, whatever else)? And oil isn't getting on the pulley (say, a slow leak on the PS pump)?
  7. https://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.com/ should be able to get you the part number for the FP.
  8. Is the cable free? I've had the cable get jammed in the sheath, so you could put the PB on, but it wouldn't release without climbing under the truck and forcing it back. You can try disconnecting the cable and seeing if it goes back and forth in the sheath easily. But if it does slide easily, you'll have to take the hub off to work in the parking brakes themselves. If you are lucky, you might be able to use the lever on the back to release the brakes so you can get the hub off. Or work the adjuster wheel to loosen the brakes a bit (and again, you are lucky it's the driver's side, doing this on the passenger side sucks twice as bad...). And if neither of these release the brakes, then I'm not sure what you do to get it apart short of damaging something (like cutting the hub or the backing plate for example).
  9. get the codes that are being generated. I would suggest trying to find a better code reader, to be able to get codes from the transmission computer (TCM) as well as the engine computer.
  10. Yeah, TC lockup is controlled by the computer.
  11. Assuming you've got a duramax, as they are the ones that come with dual batteries from GM, the two batteries are needed to start the engine. They are connected in parallel, and are both connected to the vehicles electrical system all the time. To test them, you need to disconnect both batteries and test them individually, and it is recommended that you replace both batteries at the same time if one is bad. For my truck, the only time anything like that happens is when I use the power windows with the engine off. But with the engine on, no dimming.
  12. 4l80e make sure you get the right line, as you've got a cab&chassis. you might also want to check that you have good fuel pressure at the rail (right around 60 psi, both at idle and when the engine is at a higher rpm, like 3000). also check how the top of the rear tank (behind the rear axle) looks, as mine had collected dirt and water over the years and the top of the fuel pump completely rusted through and was dropping crap into the gas...and the fuel filters that are part of the fuel pumps (both front and rear) aren't that good at actually filtering...you might consider plumbing an inline fuel filter between the front tank and the engine while you are replacing fuel lines. The earlier models ('99-'03 GMT-800s) had an inline filter and bracket that works nice. also check your brake lines, they rust bad where the 4 lines from the front end run to the abs unit under the cab along the frame rail as well as above the front fuel tank along the frame rail. gm still sells new pre-bent nylon covered steel lines, but they don't include the 2 lines across the rear axle, various 3rd parties sell prebent stainless lines that include the rear axle lines. -the ip is known to fail. replacing it with another one uses the mileage from the new one (mileage is stored in the IP itself), so you'd need the dealer to transfer it -the standard manual dual-zone I would suggest just getting another one from a junkyard if the sliders are busted. they can't really be fixed. main fixable thing with them is when the lights go out, but they are still a hassle as the lights are soldered down.
  13. You might get some idea of what the problem could be if you have access to a code reader that can read codes from the transmission's computer (TCM). It can have codes, but not turn on the CEL... Some parts stores will have one that can do this, and will read the codes for free...
  14. Not sure your engine will last a month with no oil in the crankcase.
  15. Um, no. If the front and rear diffs are geared differently (ie, 3.73 up front, 4.10 in the rear), you will notice IMMEDIATELY that you've got a serious problem. Driving on any pavement you will get crazy tire scrubbing going in a straight line, and the truck will be virtually undriveable. You'll also need a lot more power just to get the truck to move.
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