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davester

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About davester

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  • Drives
    2004 Sierra 3500 C&C
  1. check that the actuator in the front axle is working
  2. yeah, check fuel pressure at the rail. If you have the 'return' style fuel system (not sure when GM switched from return to returnless, it was either '03 or '04 I believe), could also be the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail that's a problem.
  3. did you do any troubleshooting before replacing the bcm or did you just decide all this stuff is going wrong, I'll just replace it?
  4. And you may want to flush the power-steering system, as the hydroboost uses it for the power-assist braking, and it can make a difference in pedal-feel.
  5. Did you bench-bleed the master cylinder, then bleed all 4 corners (furthest from MC to nearest), then use a computer hooked up to the truck to bleed the ABS system, then bleed all 4 corners again (same order)?
  6. Fuel level sender is part of the pump. As for getting the right pump before starting, I would suggest jacking up the truck a bit, setting your phone to take a video w the flash on, then video taping the top of the fuel tank. There's enough space for you to get it up and in there to do it, just not enough to get your head up there. Then you can match the appearance of the top of the fuel pump to the pics of the top of the fuel pumps on rockauto.com, to find the specific model you need.
  7. shocks won't prevent the suspension from bottoming out. And you either have torsion bars OR springs, not both (at least, that's my understanding). cranked torsion bars reportedly (I can't say first-hand, as I haven't cranked mine) make the suspension ride very poorly. It generally is recommended to switch to a low lift instead, to keep the suspension angles correct so it rides properly. or do you mean cranking them so the truck is back to the regular height (as this would be fine). you might be able to get it to ride a bit softer by switching the jounce-bumpers on the front. The z71 ones are supposed to be stiffer than the 'regular' ones.
  8. u-joints can do this (and the vibration gets transmitted through the transfer case to the shifter...) possibly the output shaft bushing of the transfer case (you could check to see if you can move the yoke a bit...) you might also crawl under the truck and see if any oil is present on the back of the transfer case and to check it's fluid level, as the original case has a design flaw where the internal oil pump will rub a hole in the case, allowing the fluid to escape, and then the TC gets ruined). You can find out more by googling "gm pump rub" or "gm pump rub fix". And if you don't know if your TC has a fix installed, I recommend installing one before it rubs a hole in your case.
  9. I've got an '04 3500, and like the Rancho RS9000 adustable shocks I got for it. In particular, the rear of my truck rides pretty rough when empty, but the front is relatively soft, so while I dialed in the rears to be pretty soft at 1 (out of 8), I could dial up the fronts to 4 and that got rid of the front end bouncing I had when they were at 1. And just recently, I replaced the bump stops for the front end, and they help the front end as well (they are part of the front end suspension, along with the torsion bars, shocks and the anti-roll bar). You might consider replacing them as well, as if they haven't been replaced, they are likely worn out. One of mine was partially collapsed, and the other I could easily compress with my fingers, while the new ones feel (by hand) very hard. I used GM 15835667 bump stops, which are the ones for the z71 model, which are a bit stiffer than the original "OEM" ones (GM 15835666). I can't give a comparison against new original style ones, but I like how these ones work. The front end doesn't dive as much when going over larger bumps.
  10. sure, rotors could cause vibrations. I would measure them for runout before buying new ones, though, but I also hate just throw parts at my truck hoping for them to fix the problem.
  11. ha. you tighten the nut holding the pinion to 150 ft/lbs, kiss those bearings goodbye. There is a pretty specific procedure for properly doing it, while reusing the original collapsible spacer, which you can't do because you didn't measure how much torque it takes to rotate the pinion prior to removal. As well, the process for doing it with a new collapsible spacer is also pretty involved, requiring you to measure the torque needed to rotate the pinion and tightening the pinion nut until the rotating torque is just right. I think you have 3 choices: -bang it on yourself, hope for the best and start saving for another rear-end -haul it to a shop to put it on with a new collapsible spacer, using the right procedure -get another rear-end in there now
  12. maybe you got a bad new hub? brake calipers are releasing when brake pedal is released? rest of the steering/suspension seems fine (like bump stops, shocks, inner & outer tie rod ends, idler and pitman arms)?
  13. I would check for binding in Window and/or mechanism, or perhaps the wires getting pinched.
  14. You need a tune specifically for running without a cat, as tunes not designed for this expect it to be there for the engine to run well. And a $50 brand new cat, I would expect to look into the end of it and find it was a hollow tube.
  15. Hello Metric system. It's nice to finally meet you. All the nuts/bolts on the truck should be metric.
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