Jump to content

east3021

Member
  • Content count

    20
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About east3021

  • Rank
    Enthusiast
  1. Agreed, sounds like a weak fuel pump. Have you done a pressure test on it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. p0300 CODE

    The fluctuating gas gauge is probably a cluster issue or sending unit problem. Neither would necessarily cause rough running. The temperature gauge could also just be a cluster issue or bad temp sending unit. With a scanner, see what the coolant temperature sensor is reporting. Does the upper radiator hose get hot within, say, five minutes after a cold start? What were all eight pressures on the compression test? Follow up with a wet test on the low cylinder to see what could be causing it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Some people swap the 16" PY0 code wheels from the subsequent generation 3/4-ton trucks. I always thought they looked good. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Not sure if you've already done it, but don't use a pry bar against the backing plate or it could get bent. With the shoes off, it just sits in there with the bolts holding it on. Some penetrating oil may help, or lightly tapping it from the back. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. It's 105 A, stock was 100 (1998 Tahoe, 350). Everything is stock, no sound system or anything like that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. You know, I think you may have saved me from a breakdown. I was driving it this morning and noticed the gauge dipping. Checked it again, alternator output was 13.2V at idle. Turned on all of the accessories and it was at 9V. Replaced the alternator, here are the voltage readings between the alternator post and battery negative: Accessories on, idle: 12.98V Accessories off, idle: 14.33V Accessories on, 2000-rpm: 14.23V Accessories off, 2000-rpm: 14.36V Battery voltage 30-minutes after above tests: 12.55V This is what the gauge shows for 12.98V between alternator post and battery ground. This is the gauge at 14.33V... I replaced the battery cables when I did the starter last week. What do you think? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Lol, yeah it doesn't look too good according to the dash gauge but shows around 14V out at the battery when running. Guess the cluster is the issue. Thanks for pointing it out, though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. If the upper radiator hose gets hot, then the thermostat is opening. You could check the coolant temperature sensor reading with a scanner, but I think you're fine. For comparison, both of my 98 models show the same gauge reading. I don't remember which thermostats I have, but think they're 195 or so. I think the temp gauge is more for decoration than anything else. The markings don't really make a lot of sense. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Here's the delete pocket on Amazon... https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DDYNUC0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500679168&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=chevrolet+truck+radio+delete+pocket&dpPl=1&dpID=21VfKVPfxfL&ref=plSrch Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. What is the code? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Sounds like a pretty good price to me, assuming no rust or intake gasket leaks. The clean interior and Michelin tires ($) imply that the owner kept up with things. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Cheap repairs are always good, glad you got it sorted out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Oops, just realized your 89 is a 1-ton. I was thinking it was a 1/2 ton GMT400, not the 1973+ series. On the GMT400 the dimmer switch is a part of the "multifunction" switch, not sure about the previous generation. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. I tried various weatherstrip patches as well, tended to make it worse. The water in mine is coming from the top, traveling in between the bubble gasket and lift glass frame until it hits that gap and comes into the cargo area. The only thing I noticed that helped marginally was adjusting the top weatherstrip that goes behind the lift glass hinges. It has a flap that, if positioned to go over the top of the liftglass, will keep some of the water from getting onto the bubble gasket at the top hinges. But, it doesn't like to stay in place and tends to get folded back down when the glass is opened. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. You'll need to verify with a wiring diagram for an 89, but here is the schematic for a 98. I would think that it is similar to your model. If your low beams work, then it seems that the problem is either your Headlamp Dimmer Switch (part of the turn signal assembly) or in the downstream wiring to the high beam lights (light green wire 11 in the diagram above). To test the dimmer switch, activate the high beam and use a test light between the high beam cavity ("C" in the diagram) and ground. If it lights, then it's not the dimmer switch. That you're eventually able to get it to work sounds like a dimmer switch issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.