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east3021

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About east3021

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  1. Fuel pump problem?

    Did the fuel filter get changed? Next time it's low, or really at any level, check the fuel pressure. It should be 60-66 psi with ignition on, engine off, and, once the ignition is off, it should hold within a few pounds for several minutes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Understanding that rust is a given for you guys up north, I'd wager that the dealer paid maybe $1500 for it and did zero work on it other than a quick vacuum job. Any idea if the lower intake gaskets are leaking? Any coolant in the oil? With that mileage, it's possible that it has never been done before, in which case they're likely leaking. Try Craigslist and private party. You'd get a much better idea of how the truck was maintained. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. In the drink

    Is it insured? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. I'd agree with that. Unless you just really like the 88-98 style, the subsequent generation (99-06) offered significant improvements and would still be affordable in the used market. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. The third door helps. Here's a booster seat in a 98 with the front bucket all the way forward and all the way back. It's fine for running around town, the bucket can be in the middle position without the passenger's knees being in the dash. An infant seat (the ones with the base on them, forward or rear facing) pretty much has to be in the center position which uses a lap belt. It would then use the little metal clip that comes with infant car seats. A bench seat wouldn't work as well with an infant seat in the center. The child's feet are pretty much on the edge of the console, so having the gap that buckets provide is best. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Here's the lock actuator that I used on my 98. It'd be the same as your 99. If you remove the 4x4 switch and separate it, you'll see solder joints for the light bulbs. See if they're cracked. Heat them up and/or resolder. On mine, the orange indicator light would only come on if you pressed on the bezel surrounding the buttons (where 4x4 is stamped). Reheating the solder joints fixed that. I'd agree that the MPFI swap is an improvement over the original injectors. It really improved throttle response on mine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Agreed, sounds like a weak fuel pump. Have you done a pressure test on it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. p0300 CODE

    The fluctuating gas gauge is probably a cluster issue or sending unit problem. Neither would necessarily cause rough running. The temperature gauge could also just be a cluster issue or bad temp sending unit. With a scanner, see what the coolant temperature sensor is reporting. Does the upper radiator hose get hot within, say, five minutes after a cold start? What were all eight pressures on the compression test? Follow up with a wet test on the low cylinder to see what could be causing it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Some people swap the 16" PY0 code wheels from the subsequent generation 3/4-ton trucks. I always thought they looked good. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Not sure if you've already done it, but don't use a pry bar against the backing plate or it could get bent. With the shoes off, it just sits in there with the bolts holding it on. Some penetrating oil may help, or lightly tapping it from the back. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. It's 105 A, stock was 100 (1998 Tahoe, 350). Everything is stock, no sound system or anything like that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. You know, I think you may have saved me from a breakdown. I was driving it this morning and noticed the gauge dipping. Checked it again, alternator output was 13.2V at idle. Turned on all of the accessories and it was at 9V. Replaced the alternator, here are the voltage readings between the alternator post and battery negative: Accessories on, idle: 12.98V Accessories off, idle: 14.33V Accessories on, 2000-rpm: 14.23V Accessories off, 2000-rpm: 14.36V Battery voltage 30-minutes after above tests: 12.55V This is what the gauge shows for 12.98V between alternator post and battery ground. This is the gauge at 14.33V... I replaced the battery cables when I did the starter last week. What do you think? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Lol, yeah it doesn't look too good according to the dash gauge but shows around 14V out at the battery when running. Guess the cluster is the issue. Thanks for pointing it out, though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. If the upper radiator hose gets hot, then the thermostat is opening. You could check the coolant temperature sensor reading with a scanner, but I think you're fine. For comparison, both of my 98 models show the same gauge reading. I don't remember which thermostats I have, but think they're 195 or so. I think the temp gauge is more for decoration than anything else. The markings don't really make a lot of sense. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Here's the delete pocket on Amazon... https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DDYNUC0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500679168&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=chevrolet+truck+radio+delete+pocket&dpPl=1&dpID=21VfKVPfxfL&ref=plSrch Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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