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CuzznVinny

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CuzznVinny last won the day on September 4

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About CuzznVinny

  • Rank
    Enthusiast

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  • Location
    Ft. Lauderdale, FL
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    2016 Silverado 2500HD

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  1. just installed mine, used this: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/206242-34in-square-punch-for-installing-new-style-cab-lights/
  2. Mine, two latching and one momentery
  3. Ive got the RC kit, UCA/Shocks/Keys/Dif Spacers. I cranked the front 3" the match the rear. Ride was unchanged, if not slightly better
  4. +1 on that, I cant stand poor titles... all the "so I did this today", or "Hey guys what should I do about this", now I have to click and read to even know what the thread is about. Mods are way too relaxed on this here. Kills search
  5. These are 6 Strobes N' More Sliver Next Gen Surface Mount LED Strobes Very thin, and very bright. These are the latest version "SLIVER 2", all 6 are split Amber and White Color, 72 Flash patterns. They where only on my truck for about 4 weeks before I upgraded to Hide-a-ways in the factory lights. These are quality strobes, not china ebay or amazon ones. 5 year warranty (i will include original receipts) I paid a total of $271 for the lights and shipping. Asking $200 shipped for all 6, obo paypal ok, usa 48 Heres a link to them: http://www.strobesnmore.com/Strobes-N-More-Sliver-Next-Gen-Surface-Mount-LED.html Some Youtube videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMxqIHyEiuU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4edxHfDGfnY&t=78s
  6. Greenlee 3/4" square metal punch. Big time saver when installing the newer cab lights. Punch is brand new with the exception of the 4 holes i punched today for my lights. Should last for hundreds of holes. Measure, Punch your hole, file to deburr, and mount your light. It did what I needed it to do, and dont need it anymore, Paid $95, selling for $55 shipped, paypal ok, usa 48
  7. I think a 20x9 +0 will be petty flush, I have the flares so I did a -18 on a 20x10. I wanted the biggest lip I could get and be pretty flush with the flares. Grill bars were removed, just screws in the back. Chrome was scuffed, primed, base coated and cleared. Chrome can be painted over just fine if done right. Everything fit in the light itself no drilling. Theres a lot of room in there. Fit the ballast and Canbus box in there no problem.
  8. yes they do, the older RC UCAs were sealed, but the newer ones have a zerk.
  9. The specs say 5700K To me they look pure white with almost no blue if any. I didn't want any blue tint either and im very happy with the color.
  10. ended up popping the glass off, and removing the screws then they pretty much come right off. looks like you could jimmy them off if you really had to. once you figure out how the mirrors pop off its a piece of cake.
  11. yes plug in play. I have the canbus adapters, so the DRL work perfect. It was a tight squeeze getting the cover back on the back of the light with the heatsink. I shaved down the little plastic nub in the center of the cover to make it fit without forcing. The bulb, transformer and canbus box are all inside the headlight fixture. They are also clockable, to get the cutoff just right. Looks like they have and updated "pro" version with a different heatsink tho They've been running everyday for a few months now. Never got around to doing the high beams yet
  12. Have these and love em. http://www.xenondepot.com/H11-Xtreme-LED-kit-p/xt-led-H11.htm
  13. The bull bar will probably interfere with the two center sensors. -12 in a 20x10 Will be about flush with flares
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