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TonyMazz

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About TonyMazz

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  1. Transmission Question!

    The number one weakness in a 4L60E is the sun-shell reaction assy. People that go in reverse then continue to roll backwards while shifting to Drive and accelerate forward. This causes stress on the sun gear assy and since it's a stamped piece of crap from the factory it will go around 100k....this is caused from metal fatigue. The clunk you are hearing is drive shaft / u-joint play....it's normal with most trucks.....you have a 99 ? Expect a few shakes, rattles and groans....lol Best thing to do with the tranny is keep up on maintenance fluid changes and filter....don't need to "flush" just service or drain about 5 quarts out when the pan is dropped to change the filter...do that every 50k-100k and you should be fine.....it will be the best 100 bucks you ever spend....will run a long time....
  2. I currently have factory UUI AM/FM radio with CD with On-Star and can get directions displayed on my radio display. Is there any non-GM radio/stereo head units that can interface with On-Star and allow the same directional display... ?
  3. I also have a 2012 crew cab, non-Bose and would like to upgrade the door speakers.....you mention kickers....do you recall what model, size etc you used. Are they 3-way, ?? Does the factory amp do ok or did you add anything i.e. amp etc ?
  4. Correct...oil does turn dark as it collects combustion by-products, dirt, debris etc. I am not stating that the oil needed changing, I am suggesting that as a result of it cleaning and working it's way through the VLOM and oil gallerys, it pulled an debris with it. I elected to pull the oil early, as I did a visual inspection of the color and determined that while it was not expired, did what I expected and performed a cleaning.... The next oil change looks like new after 2000 miles, and oil pressure remains near 40psi at idle...and runs perfectly smooth, and no noise... The seafoam idea was not related to the combustion side of things, but infact the crankcase side of things. I believe I have accomplished the initial desired result and possibly cleaned lifter ports, ring landings, etc.... there is nothing wrong with the dealer based dino/syn blend....I just like the mobil 1 ....
  5. So you are saying $1500 to do a trans service, coolant flush, plugs. fuel filter, wires ? Trans svc at my dealer is $130 or so....Coolant flush ....$150, plugs....$100, ....so your $500 or so is what my dealer would charge....$1500 bucks rings of BS....what is that 8 hrs labor and $600 bucks in parts....
  6. I switched because I have had good luck with full synth. on other trucks...approx 750k miles......are there better products maybe....but when I see synth blend I don't know if its 5% synth 95% regular or what...I go with 100% synth. I live in the country in western Wisconsin where my lowest outside temp was -38 F... I want steady viscosity at startup....pumping ability.....good detergent level..... This truck has had the dexos syn-blend it's whole life....engine had 1000 hrs engine time with 32k miles on it when I bought it....that's an avg of 32 miles / hour.....aka city driving....or lots if idling.....so...when I bought it I switched to mobil 1....and after first oil change and 3k miles the oil was dark near black....I pulled oil out and recharged again with mobil 1 and after 1000 miles the oil is new looking on this oil change....I now have 37k on truck ...we'll see how this goes.....
  7. I had it happen to my truck today. My truck is Victory Red....My mud guard caught most of it....so I tried laquer thinner on the bottom of my chrome nerf bars....nope tried finnesse by 3M very very light polishing compound.....nope ....tried micro fiber and polish while wet I gently used my finger nail and it came right off.....took me an hour on my right side....then took Liquid Glass polish and applied a new coat rubbed off and came out ok. Thankfully, it was only on my right side....
  8. Wondering as an effort to keep my engine / rings clean, if it is a good practice to pour some seafoam into crankcase during the last few hundred miles prior to an oil change ? Would this alter the operation of the 1, 4, 6, 7 lifter operation for the AFM at all ? I run mobil 1 5W-30 as an oil vs the dexos synblend in my new used vehicle which is a 2012 Silverado LT crew cab with the 5.3L LC9 engine. I purchased vehicle with 32k on it and noticed that installing Mobil 1, the oil is getting pretty brown after 3k...my assumption that previous owner did alot of city driving / idling with the truck....and I do mostly highway and it appears that oil is washing the engine inside.... Now am wondering as a preventative measure to dump a few oz's of seafoam into just before my 5k oil change to further aid in cleaning things up.....not sure I'd have to do this all the time, but.... My consumption, has been during this oil change about 1/2 - 3/4 quart in 3200 miles....but I have no idea how this engine was managed....the only thing I know for sure is that it had oil changes every 5k and had 1012 hours on it with only 32k miles on it....which equates to about 32 miles an hour....slow..... Thoughts ? Thanks T
  9. I recently purchased a used well maintained 2012 Silverado LT crew cab 1500 4WD with a 5.3L aluminum engine 6-speed tranny, 3.42 gears. The vehicle had 32k miles on it, and I have owned for approximately 60 days and now has 36k on it. I am curious, did GM fix the oil consumption issue with the valve cover baffle, and nozzle in oil pan by 2012 ? My motor uses "a little oil" (approx 1/2 qrt in 3000 miles) but I am not alarmed yet. The oil I am using and have used in all my vehicles is Mobil 1 5W-30 syn (dexos cert). I did not find out about the AFM and oil consumption issues until after I bought the truck, and while the truck runs smooth, transition between V4 and V8 is flawless....wondering if I am either lucky or the issues just haven't kicked in yet.... Do you have any insight as to when Chevy introduced the "factory fixes" as standard in the Gen IV engines.... Thanks Tony
  10. Hello - I just bought a 2012 5.3 Silverado crew cab with 32k on the clock....dealer informed me that 5.3's after 2011 or newer have the corrected valve cover and oil pan splash deflector installed..... so far mine has not burned any oil after 2k of my own miles.....I am burning M1 5w-30....idles smooth runs good....I'd say go after the newer the better.....you should be fine.
  11. TonyMazz

  12. Transmission Flush

    If you decide to flush, keep the old filter in, flush, and fill. Then drop the pan and drain 5 qts and change filter, bolt up and install 5 qts fresh fluid. When you flush, you loosen up debris in the valve body and crap gets stuck in the check valves...thats the problems you hear about. The best way is to simply drop the pan every 50K, drain 5 qts or so and change filter each time and bolt it up and top it off..you will not have any problems.... Flushing loosens debris...if you decide you want a full flush, drop the pan afterwards and you will pull out 90% of any debris, change the filter etc.... That's what a dealer tranny tech told me to do... I just drop, change filter, and top off each time ...no flushes for me ....
  13. I would suggest that a K&N filter (besides adding dirt to your engine) will increase the flow...however, the computer will adjust and add more fuel. folks are seduced by "added horsepower" adds ....there is only one way to "add" horsepower.....burn more fuel!!!
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