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JDuncan

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    13
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About JDuncan

  • Rank
    Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • Location
    NoVA
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    15 Sierra RCSB 4x4
  1. Re: a color matched grille, I'd recommend 2 things: 1) patience & 2) eBay $400+ was WAY too rich for my blood, so on a whim I set up one of those e-mailed product alerts on eBay, had the correct OE part number in my back pocket, and waited. A few weeks later, I picked up a AT factory color matched grille for my '15 SLE, for something like $240 shipped; just had to wait for the right supplier to clear out the right warehouse. (BTW, I have a clean chrome grille for sale) Ended up looking like this for now; like you, I'm trying to decide what to do with the bumpers. I originally tried Anthracite Gray Plastidip, front didn't last too long; still on the rear. Current front-runner option is Line-X, but I need to find a competent vinyl shop in my area to compare.
  2. Looks good! Very stealthy. I think I like them better than the typical "pocket" flares you see all the time. Can you take any profile pics to show how far they stick out?
  3. Marv88 2016 Silverado LS Regular Cab 5.3L

    Great looking truck! Really like all the small details. Cant wait to see how the audio system turns out! Been thinking about this for a while.
  4. Zachs_Alligator's 2017 Twin Turbo RCSB Silverado build

    Bad ass build. Nicely done. I dig the fender dumps but I'd never get past inspection/emissions where I live.
  5. Crew cab only - bummer. Me and the other dozen regular cab guys have so few rail/step options off the shelf.
  6. This is a slick idea I wish I'd thought of. I tapped the high beam in my Sierra off the shutter trigger on the headlight harness, then ran to a lit "arming" switch in the overhead console. Position 1 - on w/ high beams (switch light on when light bar on) Position 2 - off BTW, with a few diodes wired up at the switch, you could get multi-mode function w/ one relay.
  7. Man, there are some truly inspirational RCSBs on this thread. Very impressive, gentlemen! Here's my RCSB - just a 2" level and some cosmetic mods... for now:
  8. This is SICK! Can you share any info on the turbo setup? Size, what's involved, kit, did a shop do the work for you?
  9. Thank you Thank you!!! That's what I was hoping to hear! Since my local GMC dealer clearly isn't the right place to help me, would any normal tire shop be able to activate the OEM GM sensors in my wheels? BTW, here they are on my truck; dark grey dip coming soon:
  10. Long-Time Lurker; First Post Today

    Thanks for the kind words!
  11. I tapped into the high-beam for the trigger on my light bar relay, but routed the trigger through the cab so I can "arm" the light bar - I didn't want it coming on when signalling other drivers or on more populated back roads; cops here are sticklers. And, I wanted to be able to instinctively shut everything down with the signal stalk when another car approaches. Yes, I use my light bar frequently on public back roads (read: unlit; tons of wildlife) where I live; I'm a jerk, but not a reckless jerk. I wired an accessory "signal" harness in my cab using 20-4 "telephone cable" (4 conductors, 20ga/ea - super cheap shielded wire; bought a ton of it for next to nothing for a different project) rated for ~1A @ 12v on each conductor. Relay triggers draw ~.1A and a lit switch is another .1A or so, so I feel pretty comfortable with that. I tapped into the white wire on the headlight harness (IIRC; I used a multimeter and a buddy flicking the highs to find the lead), and sent that signal back into the cab on one of the wires in the 20-4 cable. If all i wanted was a max of 3 high-beam-triggered accessories, I would've stopped there, but I knew I wanted my switches overhead, and I only wanted to wire the cab for accessories once, so i pulled another 20-4 up to the overhead from the driverside fusebox, and ran a third 20-4 from the overhead back to the engine compartment. So, I ended up with 8 conductors running from the overhead to the engine compartment (terminating in different locations - one set is for "inputs" the other for "outputs"), and 4 conductors from the fuse box to the overhead. All current-carrying wiring and relays are in the engine compartment, isolated and fused like they should be. Here's the methodology: I want certain accessory circuits to trigger on the highbeam when armed and other circuits to trigger on ignition when armed, BUT I wanted to also be able to trigger everything on ignition if needed. Here's how my switch panel came out: The blue toggles are highbeam-triggered when armed. The red toggles are ignition-triggered when armed. The circular switch in the center is an "override" that will supply ignition power to the highbeam side to run those accessories when parked if needed. A few diodes are needed here so highbeams dont come on when the "override" is engaged. Here's the plan: Behind-the-grille 30" LED bar - Highbeam #1 - installed Hood mounted LED spotlight cubes - highbeam #2 - undecided High-mount rear/side LED work/reverse lights - ignition #1 - planned LED Fog lights - ignition #2 - planned (truck didn't come with fogs) Here's the lightbar installed behind the grille: Less than $20 was spent on switches, terminals, and heatshrink; I'm very happy with how it came out, and IMO this beats the pants off those high-dollar "accessory controllers" some companies sell, and I can add relays and accessories as needed without ever leaving the engine bay. I hope some of this makes sense. I'm happy to explain further if anyone needs additional info. Sorry I didn't take pics during the install.
  12. Hi, Been a member here for a while. I really appreciate what a great resource and community this forum provides. I've learned a whole bunch reading posts here since I started shopping for a GM truck last year. Last August, I picked up a '15 Sierra 1500 RCSB used with 7500mi. It is optioned way more heavily than I would've had I filled out the order sheet, but I love it! 5.3L flexfuel 4x4 SLE w/ 3.42s, rear locker and mylink, in Sonoma Red. I have you guys to thank for my level, light bar behind the grille, plasti-dipped emblems, and interior wiring/switches. I don't post much because I rarely feel I have anything to contribute that hasn't already been posted on a thread. That said, this afternoon I had my first experience at a dealer that really raised my eyebrows, and received some information that, if true, would be useful to other members here. So, I replied to a post!! http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/199559-solved-switched-wheels-no-relearn-required/?p=1967752 Anyway, now that I've poked my head out of the shadows, I wanted to introduce myself, and show some appreciation for the fantastic resource this forum really is. Thanks everyone! P.S. This is my truck before I swapped the wheels to 18" Z71 "tuning forks"
  13. Stopped by the GMC dealer this afternoon to have them relearn/program TPMS sensors on my '15 Sierra RCSB. Bottom line: they said it is impossible to do so. Here's the back story: I swapped my OEM 17" wheel/tire combo for OEM 18" wheels/tires taken off another 14-15 Sierra. I bought them locally off CL. Figuring the new set has OEM TPMS sensors from the same generation truck, and having read no overt warnings here or elsewhere, I thought it would be a no-brainer to have the local dealer relearn/reprogram the TPMS for the new OEM wheel/tire combo. I listed my original wheels on CL, and due to travel scheduling, lined up a deal and sold them before I had a chance to go see the dealer. After an hour in the waiting room this afternoon, here's what the delaer told me: 1) TPMS sensors come with a "Registration Code" printed on the OE packaging. That code is required to program the truck to read the sensors, and it is impossible to use any sensor not already programmed to the truck without that code. 2) TPMS sensors are model-year specific; a sensor from a '14 wont work on a '15, etc. 3) IF I still had my original wheels, the dealer would dismount everything, swap the sensors, and remount/balance; at a cost of ~$250 4) The only option remaining at the dealer service counter would be NEW TPMS sensors and install; at a cost of ~$500 How much of the above is fact vs. fiction? Have any of you guys been in this situation before? What would you recommend? I've been going to this dealer for a few years now; they've always seemed knowledgeable and have never done wrong by me, but this "registration code" stuff caught me by surprise. Any info or insight you guys can provide would be appreciated. Right now, it sounds like I'm just going to have to live with the idiot light on the dash until the budget allows for the K02s I've had my eye on; now that much further away with the addition of TPMS sensors.
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