Thanks Big Blue, I already have the Fumoto new version valve. I will order the funnel, great idea. Saw a couple of videos about the filter; no mess free way to remove. Did see the cardboard placement angled behind and below so at least the oil flow won't hit the underside parts of the truck.
Thanks Dave. I do have a torque wrench. Crawled under the truck last night. Enough room without lifting it but plan on lifting it for more room. See your just across the river in Bucks, PA. I'm in Princeton.
ymc226 replied to ymc226's topic in 2015 / 2016 / 2017 / 2018 Chevrolet Suburban/Tahoe, GMC Yukon, & Cadillac EscaladeThanks 15HDriver, Can you tell me which direction and how to pull and slide or lift. Looking into the fender side of the inside of the box, there are 3 squeeze tabs to release the box which I broke one off already. I "released" the remaining 2 clips, then tried to lift and slide toward the direction of the driver side but it wouldn't budge. I just don't want to break the box and make the truck undriveable. Are the grommets you refer to on the fender side of the air box (vertical side) or on the bottom?
Recognizing the light output is not the best, I read the various threads (this and this) and ordered the Phillips Xtreme Vision bulbs. Following the instructions in the manual, the driver side bulb was changed easily. On the passenger side, I removed the engine air filter cover and filter but enough of the bottom part of the filter box still is in the way so there is no easy access to the back bulb cover. For you that have changed out the low beams, how did you remove the bottom air filter box?
Thanks Jim, The ramp idea is a good one; I was thinking of buying a set of jack stands but ramps would be just as safe. I looked at the Rhino ramps on Amazon but the reviews worry me in that pictures of failures and bad reviews show up quickly. Which ramps do you use. These from Discount Ramps seem OK. Also, reading on the Land Cruiser forums regarding oil changes, has anyone used the Femco or Fumoto valves? It seems since the Suburban plug sits high, these valves would make oil changing much cleaner except for the oil filter.
I know there are torque specs for every nut on everything. Not having the service manual, does anyone have the torque spec on the drain plug? Is there a washer on the plug? The Rover and Porsche have copper or aluminum ones. I know the oil filter can be a "*itch" to get off. On the Land Rover it states screw on until the filter rubber gasket touches the mount and then tighten 1/2 turn which I'll follow on the Burb.
I don't have a lift. I can crawl under the Land Rover and use Jack Point Jackstands for the Porsche. I guess looking at the front end of the Suburban, the front end needs to be lifted and placed on jack stands. Do you need to lift the back end as well to level the truck for all the oil to drain out? The Porsche needs to be leveled out for the 2 oil tanks to drain best.
In the last few years, started doing my own oil and filter changes on my seasonal drivers (Porsche 911 GT3 and Land Rover Defender 90) as I've read horror stories about over torquing filters + drain plugs, inadequate filling and other damage done by service techs at quick change and even dealerships. On my 2008 Suburban, I've taken to Jiffy Lube always (had a red check engine light once, no or very low oil by my local mechanic). Now with my 2016 Suburban, I'd like to change the oil and filter myself. Does anyone change their own and are any instructions available online? I've You Tubed on the last series Suburban and it seems straight forward.
ymc226 posted a topic in 2015 / 2016 / 2017 / 2018 Chevrolet Suburban/Tahoe, GMC Yukon, & Cadillac EscaladeI read the manual and it stated Top Tier gas brands were recommended but no specific octane. Just bought a 2016 LT Suburban with the Luxury package. Previously used just the cheapest regularly (87 octane) gas on my 2008 LTZ.
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