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Everything posted by BlkSS

  1. I recommend to everyone to just get the splice-in pigtail so you don't have to wait. No one will ever tell and it works great. Just takes a little more "work" it install.
  2. I have finally got around to finalizing the install of the OEM RSE system for my 2016 Silverado HD. This was the only option that I wanted that my pickup did not come with so I am extremely happy this is done and so is my son! I would like to give a BIG THANKS to Anthony and John at MVI (www.gm-navigation.com) as they are extremely knowledgeable and their customer service is top notch. I purchased MVI's in-dash Blu-ray and RSE kits along with the unlocked HMI module and added their HDMI input and third brake lamp camera with switch. The unlocked HMI is definitely worth the money over a Lockpick as you have full control while in motion and don’t have to worry about the Lockpick failing as I had 2 of 2 fail in my old 2010 Silverado. MVI supplied most of the parts though I did source a few parts from the dealer as I did vary a little from MVI's kit as I wanted the RSE controls in the center console which their current kit does not yet have but was told it is on their to-do list with many other projects. Their HDMI kit requires the RSE controls as you tap into those inputs. I removed one of the cigar lighter outlets in the front of the center console and mounted the HDMI input there. If you stick to their kit, the install is fairly simple IF you have a sunroof. Once again, MVI offers great customer service in case you do run into any glitches. They are also a vendor on here as well if you did not know. NOTE: ***NON-SUNROOF VEHICLES*** You do need a new headliner if you don't have a sunroof as you need the mounting bracket for the screen which offsets the screen from of the original position of the overhead dome lamp leaving ts existing hole exposed. On sunroof vehicles, the dome lamp and screen use the sunroof frame to mount to and you just enlarge the existing dome lamp hole.
  3. Looks good bonefish, you should be stoked. Are those the N-Fab Steps?
  4. A Few Upgrades

    Looks pretty awesome! Those appear to be the OEM power retracting steps.
  5. First World Problems...
  6. ^^^^ This It's not terrible but I only do it on steel wheels on the farm as it doesn't matter how they look and they don't need balanced either.
  7. I went with MVI for the programming and to supply some parts. I did a write-up here on the forum a while back about the RSE install recommending them for this and other items. The MVI kit is a LOT simpler install than what I did but they don't offer anything that would include the rear console inputs. The rear console aux input is needed in order to wire in the HDMI input unless they've brought out more things. I spoke with Anthony just last week but I didn't ask if they've made any changes to this particular kit. FYI, if you don't have a sunroof, you WILL need a new headliner or have an upholstery shop fill in the original dome lamp opening with the material cut for the screen and then be recovered. The non-sunroof vehicle dome lamp is further back than the sunroof vehicle dome lamp is so the existing opening is still present when the screen is mounted, pic attached. I do highly recommend the unlocked HMI over a LockPick. I'll recommend Anthony and John at MVI again as they are very knowledgeable. I've and the opportunity to visit their shop in the Denver area a couple times now and they are great! Their customer service is top notch.
  8. Speed and power are something that you get immune or accustomed to, in my opinion. For me, it's been something that I could never get enough of anyways. My first real "fast" car was my 1998 Camaro SS that I bought when I was in high school. It was a blast to drive and was one of the faster cars available then without dropping outrageous money. I still have my 2002 Camaro SS that honestly doesn't get driven much because it no longer feels fast though can still be fun. Working in the automotive industry and driving some of the vehicles I've been able to has made me develop the "immunity". My previous pickup, a 2010 Silverado with the NHT package (6.2 Max Trailering) was great at first. Due to the immunity factory, shortly afterwards, I "needed" an intake, full exhaust and tune. Then I "needed" a blower and then a cam and smaller pulley. I stopped modifying it as it was my daily driver when it had 499hp 556lbft to the ground and knew I'd need to build the tranny eventually. For a 1/2 ton pickup it was really quick and would surprise you but once again having the opportunity to drive what I have, boosted V8s, V10s, V12s, and high horse powered NA engines, it's desensitized me. With todays engineering, both on the engines and the suspension systems, fast vehicles don't even seem fast at times because they ride so well and you feel so much more in control of the vehicles. My concern now is vehicles are getting so powerful that they can easily get away from you if you're not careful because of the handling characteristics can give you that false sense of security.
  9. If you follow everything in the pdf, you'll tear it down further than you'll need if you're doing just the cover. To remove just the cover, you won't need to remove the 4 bolts in step 19 if I remember correctly. You will however need to take out more screws than the pdf tells you too but you won't have to fight with the IP harness.
  10. Seriously it's not near as bad as it looks to be honest. However I was a Mercedes-Benz Master Technician before I had to move back to Kansas so this wasn't anything new. It's a lot easier than some dashes that I've pulled. I was actually rewiring the dash to install the OEM RSE system to have full rear console inputs so I could wire in an HDMI input and have it display on both the front and overhead screens. Unfortunately, since I don't have a sunroof I had to replace my headliner which wasn't cheap. It's been well worth it though, especially if you ask my son. The hardest part of the entire job was squeezing the old and new headliners in and out through the left rear door without damaging them. Just pull the entire column as it's easier than trying to maneuver around it. If you try to squeeze the dash around the steering wheel, I am 99.99% it won't fit anyways. If I'm wrong, you will more than likely scratch/tear your heated steering wheel. The column comes out very easily. There is 1 bolt that connects the upper steering shaft to the intermediate steering shaft near the firewall. Then there are 2 nuts and 2 bolts that hold the steering column up to the lower internal dash support which is the big metal piece in the picture that runs the full width of the dash area. The tilt level pulls straight out the side and then the steering column covers will just pop off and you'll have access to unplug the harness. I attached a pdf file for the removal procedure. K2 Instrument Panel Removal.pdf
  11. The dash comes out very easily, just a LOT of screws and a few bolts. I don't have a video, but just start taking out the a-pillars, defroster panel, screen/hvac controls, disc drive, radio modules, cluster, knee bolster, glove box, etc. You'll also need to pull the steering column. Bag all the screws and lable where they go in each bag and then reinstall. Depending on your comfort level and organization really determines the time it'll take. Also, if your just replacing the cover, you won't have to take it down this far.
  12. The "body" portion of the new module is overall thinner than the previous module. The connector area, they are basically the same thickness/depth. Theoretically, it would fit as long as the "footprint" is the same as the original Impala module.
  13. The step down on each model is the part number being superseded. Part numbers are superseded for various reasons. Find a part number under the MY and vehicle you're wanting a cluster for. Once you find one, just verify with Chris before purchase to be safe. If you're looking for a GAS 2016, then chose form the list whether you want/need the RED (GMC) or BLUE/GREEN (Chevy) lighting. Technically, these should work for nearly all 2016 Fullsize GAS Pickup/SUVs. Again, just to be safe, verify with Chris before purchase with YOUR VIN. 2016 GAS US SPEC - DENALI RED 2016 GAS US SPEC - DENALI STYLE LARGE DISPLAY BLUE/GREEN LIGHTING FOR CHEVY (SILVERADO/TAHOE/SUBURBAN ETC)
  14. You can do what I did but it is not the cheapest nor fastest route. I ordered my 2016 Tahoe UHS cluster from the dealer. It was on backorder at the time so I waited 3 months. I also had to pay the core charge because I did not have the same cluster to exchange running the price up. The plus side was it was brand new.
  15. Via his website: http://whiteautoandmedia.com/index.php?option=com_contact&view=contact&id=1&Itemid=56 Saturday and Sunday, 10am-4pm ET
  16. Based on the GM reps responses when discussing the new 1500 Silverado, the way I took when they were asked about a hood scoop on the 1500s it is they didn't do a hood scoop based on customer input and will be gone on the HDs as well which is probably why the grille looks so massive. And yes, the DEF tank is relocated as they mentioned on the 1500 diesel, it will have the filler next to the fuel cap with an enlarged fuel door like Ford.
  17. Big thanks to Phil (pgamboa) as I purchased the splice-in pigtail version of his harness back in December. Tuesday I finally received the 2018 module which had been on backorder and got everything installed that night in my 2016 Silverado. Everything works as it should as phone position is no longer an issue as it had been previously with my Samsung and it charges my phone faster than the 2016-17 module did. Last night I noticed it charges my wife's Samsung that has an Otterbox case even though it doesn't sit flush on the mat. I highly recommend this upgrade and Phil to everyone with a 2016 or 2017 with the wireless charging option.
  18. PM pgamboa here on the forum as he is Phil. Order the module from the dealer or online from gmpartsdirect.com, nationalgmparts.com, etc.
  19. Big thanks to Phil (pgamboa) as I purchased the splice-in pigtail version of his harness back in December. Yesterday I finally received the 2018 module which had been on backorder and got everything installed last night in my 2016 Silverado. Everything works as it should as phone position is no longer an issue as it had been previously with my Samsung and it charges my phone faster than the 2016-17 module did. I highly recommend this upgrade and Phil to everyone with a 2016 or 2017 with the wireless charging option.
  20. If you haven't contacted Chris (whiteautoandmedia.com) of WAMS, Anthony Brush of MVI (www.gm-navigation.com) can set you up as well as they are a vendor on here. There is certain programming that Chris does for MVI. Chris is very knowledgeable but WAMS hours are only over the weekend and MVI is open during the week. I've been pleased with WAMS as they are currently working on something for me. I've also purchased a few things from MVI and have been very pleased with their knowledge and customer service. You can't go wrong with either.
  21. Check out GM's full floor liners. I love mine over either as I've had both WeatherTech and Husky in previous vehicles. My only complaint is the floor below the throttle pedal is left exposed thanks to those unintended accelerating cars back in the day. If it's strictly between those 2, I'd go Husky as the last 2 WeatherTechs I had curled badly as mentioned above.
  22. You have those "extra options" because you have the All Terrain Package, very nice pickups. On yours, have you pulled the 2 DRL fuses in the fuse box in the engine compartment? That is all I had to do on my 2010 I had.

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