Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Phil0922

  • Rank
  • Birthday 02/07/1992

Profile Information

  • Name
    Phil Smith
  • Location
    Clearwater, FL
  • Gender
  • Drives
    2014 Silverado - DC - LTZ 4x4 - 3.42
  1. My 6" Fabtech lift is waiting for me to install it, but I need to pick out a wheel/tire combo first. I've been looking everywhere on the inter webs and can only find a limited amount of 14'-17' Silverados rocking 18" wheels. Everyone loves the 20" look. I don't mind it, paired with the right wheels, an aggressive tire looks great on 20". I just want more meat. Both for the small amount of comfort it adds and because when I do go off the pavement (very rarely), I'd rather have that extra bit of oomph against the rocks. Mainly, it the looks. Honestly, I just like the way a 35" tire pairs with an 18" wheel. Is there something I'm missing here? The last model body style seems to have a ton of 18" builds I can find. Coming up with only a few images with say, an 18x9 wheel with 35x12.5. It's cool if there are a few more images, I'm just curious to know why EVERYONE is going with 20" wheels with these trucks.
  2. Looking at throwing a Pro Comp 6" suspension kit on the truck. Curious to know if the install is fairly straight forward compared to others like Rough Country. IMO, the instructions they provide are more for mechanics than DIYers. When I say they're more for mechanics, I mean they show schematics in an "all in one" view rather than a step by step picturesque. CST has the best instructions hands down, but also the most expensive lift. Has anyone that's not a mechanic, but knowledgeable with a suspension been able to read through these instructions and install this with ease? Also, anyone that has it, is the track width something to be nervous about? Did you end up spacing out the rear wheels to match the track width in the front? Last question, not looking for the strongest wheels on the market, but also not the cheapest. Pro Comp makes a cheap wheel, but they seem to have good products. Are there wheels anything to look at? Under $800 for a set of 18x9s seem extremely reasonable to me. Thanks for any info.
  3. So, I had an issue a few months ago where I would get annoying feedback when I turned my steering wheel after I installed a RC 2.5 level kit. I took the .5" spaced out from the top and left the 2" bottom spacer in and the noise almost vanished completely. When I turn right now, it still gives me a small amount of feedback. People are saying it might be due to the heat, not sure. That's why I'm here. I know adding a level kit throws your suspension at the wrong angles and blah blah blah. I'm curious to know what it does to affect my rack assembly. That's the only thing I can think that is making the noise. I am looking at other kits, some that are billet instead of a thick chunk of plastic, i'm sure this isn't the problem. I am also interested in going to the ProRyde adjustable level kit, where only a top coliover-like spacer is needed. Maybe I'm thinking because 2 parts of the suspension are touched, it would cause more noise than just one part of the suspension touched. But, what do I know, I sell lumber for a living. If this noise is common (which I don't believe it is) then I'll do exhaust work to drone out the noise. If you have any suggestions, that'd be great. Thanks! PS - I was also looking at QuickLift struts, like Rancho or Bilstein, but I need over 2.5". Thanks.
  4. It was a simple alignment issue. Caster was off a smidge. Sorry for starting a new thread over something so minor. I rely on what is being said here a lot. And most people have said they haven't had to bring their truck into a shop after touching the rear end. I also couldn't find anything stating this was true or not. Just to be safe, an alignment was done. Everything was installed correctly. Rides smooth now.
  5. Before you replace anything. Remove the lift. This resolved my issue. Seems the guy up top replaced the R&P while the lift kit was still installed. I had a loud noise and after removing the top strut spacers, noise is gone. The bottom spacer rides with no noises.
  6. It was driving perfectly fine before and after the level kit was installed. I developed a noise in the steering, so I took it out. Now, after putting the factory blocks back on, it's pulling. I don't think I have anything wrong in that manner. Thanks.
  7. Both blocks are seated, the round mail part is inserted in the female part. The only thing I can see is the u-bolt bottom bracket is installed reversed on one side, not sure which one is in correct position and which is not. They look to be symmetrical, so I don't think that's it.
  8. I heard changing the rear suspension won't affect your alignment, yet my steering wheels needs to be held about 10-15 degrees to the left to move in a straight line. I changed from a 2" level lift block to a factory 1" block. Now my truck is pulling to the right. Torqued all the u-bolt nuts to ~60ft/lbs. An alignment is scheduled, I just want to see if someone's had this issue and if it's going to still pull right after the shop works on it, basically ruling out an alignment issue.
  9. Please let me know if this works for you. Want to make sure the top spacer really was this issue so I can contact RC for a refund or credit and to let them know what the top spacer is doing to some vehicles.
  10. If you don't mind, how much were they going to charge you to replace the rack? I know it was covered, but did they mention how much it would be?
  11. OK, so I took EVERYTHING apart on the suspension and inspected the CVs, inner and outer tie rods, sway bar/links, bushings, and the rack. Noise was vibrating near the tie rods and I believe it was going to the rack. I reassembled, this time WITHOUT the top strut spacer. Voila, the noise is 99% deadened. The noise was definitely a Rack noise, i'm sure the rack would've went if I kept it that way. Truck sounds so much better now. The 2" spacer on the bottom is still in to even it out a bit, but I feel disappointed that RCs products are doing this to their customer's trucks. I understand tweaking the suspension is asking for trouble, but for it to immediately wear down the rack like that is frustrating. So, keep it in and repair the rack (~$1000 part) every now and then, OR take that top spacer out OR bare with the noise. P.S. - This pertains to the 2.5" level kit, any actual suspension lift is beyond my knowledge.
  12. OK, so I posted a video (below), on a separate thread and thought I resolved the issue, but ended up getting nowhere with it. I installed a RC 2.5" level kit and developed a steering noise. It obviously tweeked in a way that made certain parts work harder than usual. I had it for a couple months and checked just about everything there was to check...CV, inner and outer tie rods, rack, bushings, and sway bar end links. Loosened all bolts and re-torqued to specs. The noise wouldn't go away. Replaced the end links with MOOG parts and nothing (wasn't expecting this to really help, but they were cheap and worth the efforts) Last night I had enough, took the strut out and removed the spacer on the top of it. I figured, not many people had issues with the 2" level but multiple had issues with the 2.5" level. The spacer came out, fastened everything up and torqued down. The noise is gone. Something with that spacer did NOT like my front end. I see many people running the 2.5, maybe they're OK with the noise, I wasn't. To have a semi new truck and it already develop that noise really irked me. So, if you're experiencing this noise, remove that top spacer. Eventually, i'm sure more failures will occur. The noise only got louder for me.
  13. Figured out on my own what happened. Overtightened the sway bar link bolts to the point where the bushings were "smushed". Untightened and retightened just enough until it was barely snug. Not a noise now. I thought I saw somewhere that it was 17-18 ft.lbs, I must have doubled that. Learn from my error, if you already knew this...nothing to see here. ​​Edit: This actually didn't fix it. Re torqued to 18 ft/lbs and it's still doing it. Any help is appreciated.

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.