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About casey.mikl

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  1. 4500 and 6.0? Sounds like a bullet proof combination to me. 6.0 is a great power plant. My assumption on the 4 low ordeal would be the actuator for the transfercase. Long box with 4 door is telling me is possibly work truck model? I have a 2011 ex cab with 6.0 and it’s a good motor. No issues, plenty of power. It’s a work horse that’s for sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Warm it up. And make a trip down the highway. Beat on it and get it nice and hot try to burn some of the crap out of it that may have built up over time Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Believe you can get a tuner to turn off the afm. I know it can me done mechanically with new rockers and lifters I believe. Not to sure. As I have a 2500hd with 6.0 that doesn’t have it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. 2012 has a different lug pattern than 2010 and older. They never came with a 16 I don’t believe. So I highly doubt they will clear the brakes. 17 is the smallest I know that came on 2500s. I would find another set of cheap 17s. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Probably pitman arm, tires could cause a vibration too. How did the road force? Even if they balance good, they could still have a bad road force measurement and cause a rough ride. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. There you go. Can figure out wiring for that and wire it into that some how. Those should be a toggle type Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. True. I would do a toggle switch. Or find a factory switch for your truck, for an option that your truck doesn’t have. Say like a sunroof. Get a bezel for a sunroof truck, and wire it to that switch. Looks factory and wouldn’t think anything of it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Yeah can do that. To where have to hold button and crank at same time. Remember, you don’t have 2 right arms. So put it somewhere that you can do both. Maybe make a small bracket and mount it under the driver seat. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. For temp use it will be fine. Nice thing about newer chevy is the onstar, can track and shut the car down. I would hide said switch away from driver area. Maybe behind back seat or somewhere that you would never think to look. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. No it shouldn’t. Install a kill switch somewhere if you don’t want to keep pulling the fuse. You could also pull the fuel pump relay. Same thing happened to my parents. My fathers 06 f350 powerstroke got stolen while he was in training for his job. Beautiful truck. Leveled, aftermarket wheels and brand new terra grapplers. Also had full straight pipe exhaust. Extremely clean 1 owner truck. Disappeared. Down here in Florida, the truck was taken and was a mad dash to Miami so it could go in a shipping container. Never seen the truck again. I would do a kill switch that’s hidden somewhere. Or keep pulling fuse or fuel pump relay. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Tomorrow will be going for an alignment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. New center link, pitman arm, tie rods (inner and outer) and sleeves are all in. Bolted in as they should. Centerlink is a direct swap to delete the isolator. Steering is so much tighter! It was a 2 day job. I was fighting the rust and the gearbox. I totally removed the gearbox and busted the pitman arm off. I had to cut the pitman arm off of the gearbox. I had running around to do in order to find a socket to fit the pitman arm. 1 13/16. I didn’t have one big enough at the house. But now I do. I also ordered rough country’s kicker bars for the front cross member. Supposed to be a direct bolt on.. they are not. My factory cross member has no holes. So I emailed them, if anything. I’ll weld the brackets to the cross member. Overall, im happy with the new centerlink. I did not get the cognito supports, as I have heard they will have issues with the stabilizer. Maybe in the future I will add them. Next things to do, 4.88 front and rear, and fox shocks front and rear. Rough country shocks are terrible. And then a set of traction bars. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Okay, so for future reference to anyone that may search this in the future. As no forum I have seen has a solid answer and it’s not really talked about. If you have a standard cab or an extended cab, and it has the isolated center link with the big rubber bushing, you can purchase a center link for a crew cab and it is a direct swap! The only thing different between an extended cab and a crew cab is the isolated center link. The pitman arm and idler are the same. So if you want to delete your isolated center link. Purchase a center link for a crew cab that is the same year as yours. It’s a direct swap into your truck! Also for steering components, I would suggest rock auto as they seemed to be the cheapest for moog Parts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. What do you carry for your CCW?

    I’ve heard a lot of good from alien gear. I’m looking for something comfortable. The appendix is where I carry mine now. The hard kydex is a killer in the car. I think what I’m going to do is get a new holster and take my old holster and fab a mount for it, to mount it under the seat of my truck or in the center console or something. So when I’m driving I can slip it into the holster in the truck and not worry about it till I get out Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. For anyone insterested, I purchased all new inner and outer tie rods, have tie rod sleeves, new pitman arm, new centerlink (crew cab, it deletes the isolator bushing) and kicker braces for my lift. Hoping to get it all installed soon and an alignment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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