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About casey.mikl

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  1. You've already started to splice them.. unless you wanna just close them up and get the adaptor then do that. That way if you wanna keep the bar when you sell it you can. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Depends? Do you want the bar to work with a trailer hooked up? Or have to keep unplugging when you use a trailer? On my ranger, I spliced it in. If I was to do it again, I would use a plug. But since you've already started splicing, I would just finish it. And I wouldn't match colors. As factory wiring colors and the colors of the led bar may not match. Need a diagram for both and wire it that way Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Did they move the tires on the rims to try to lessen the road force? When you get a high road force, your supposed to remove the tire from the rim, spin it 180 degrees and reinstall the tire and then re do the road force. And see if it goes down. The truck is still under a factory warranty and should not have a vibration. If they cannot figure your issue out, then go to someone that can or speak to someone higher up. If the wheel is out of round like they are saying I'm guessing? Then they need to be replaced. Again, the truck is under warranty 3/36k is basic. Which normally covers everything. Your driving a Denali... it's top of the line, there should be no issues at all. Especially at that mileage. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. When I've changed fluid, I have used brake cleaner in the past. But in order to get it really clean you'll use a ton of it. I would maybe use a little and some shop towels and wipe out the bottom of the diff. When you break all the bolts loose. Take them all out except for 1 of the top ones. Loosen it a little and knock the cover free from the bottom, that way the cover doesn't fall and make a giant mess. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Jack all 4 tires up and put it in 4x4 and neutral and spin the front drive shaft, and see if the rear one spins, my bet is it's something inside of the transfer case Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. As for wheels. 2010- and you will not need adaptors. 2011+ is when the pattern changed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Yeah I wish mine didn't have it.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. I'm talking about the isolator bushing it goes through. When your under truck and turn the wheel. You can see the pitman arm squishing the bushing before the tires even start to turn. I want to know, if the bushing is changeable? Or is it possible to swap in a 3500hd center link? As I have heard that they do not have the isolator bushing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. All the way on the left. There's a big rubber bushing that's in the center link. The pitman arm goes through it. Unlike the usual solid center link. It's called an isolated center link. It's supposed to reduce road vibration in the steering wheel. There is play in the rubber bushing and there looks to be grease coming out of it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Bump? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Yeah my truck did it violently, but I have 37 inch tires so it made it worse. I replaced all 4 calipers and rotors and pads and it all went away. I would suggest front rotors and pads depending on how they look, or have them cut and sand the pad faces if they still have some decent meat left. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. My 2011 2500hd 6.0 vortec LT 95k miles. 7.5 inch rough country lift, 37x12.50 nitto terra-grapplers, 20x14 fuel mavericks, weatherguard toolbox, rigid industries light bar, and recently just added smoked recon cab lights to replace my broken center light. Future mods are 15+ paintable tow mirrors with reverse lights, flush mount rigid reverse lights in rear bumper, and some new gears. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. The center link on my truck is an "isolated" center link that has the bushing that I am assuming is grease filled. The bushing seems to have play in it as well as leaking grease. Is the bushing itself replaceable? Also is the center link replaceable with a 3500 non isolated center link. The bushing is to stop road vibration, a little vibration won't bother me any. I just want to tighten the steering up. Everything else is tight and I do have tie rod sleeves too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. I'm not sure of the part number. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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