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casey.mikl

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Everything posted by casey.mikl

  1. Hold them up and see if holes match up. If do, your golden, if not then not so much. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. My 2011 rotors slid off once the caliper was removed. Well can’t say that. Had to beat them off with a hammer. The parking brake shoes were rusted and locked on the rotor. When got the rotor off. I gutted the whole parking brake assembly. Gotta love rust. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. You've already started to splice them.. unless you wanna just close them up and get the adaptor then do that. That way if you wanna keep the bar when you sell it you can. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Depends? Do you want the bar to work with a trailer hooked up? Or have to keep unplugging when you use a trailer? On my ranger, I spliced it in. If I was to do it again, I would use a plug. But since you've already started splicing, I would just finish it. And I wouldn't match colors. As factory wiring colors and the colors of the led bar may not match. Need a diagram for both and wire it that way Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Did they move the tires on the rims to try to lessen the road force? When you get a high road force, your supposed to remove the tire from the rim, spin it 180 degrees and reinstall the tire and then re do the road force. And see if it goes down. The truck is still under a factory warranty and should not have a vibration. If they cannot figure your issue out, then go to someone that can or speak to someone higher up. If the wheel is out of round like they are saying I'm guessing? Then they need to be replaced. Again, the truck is under warranty 3/36k is basic. Which normally covers everything. Your driving a Denali... it's top of the line, there should be no issues at all. Especially at that mileage. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. When I've changed fluid, I have used brake cleaner in the past. But in order to get it really clean you'll use a ton of it. I would maybe use a little and some shop towels and wipe out the bottom of the diff. When you break all the bolts loose. Take them all out except for 1 of the top ones. Loosen it a little and knock the cover free from the bottom, that way the cover doesn't fall and make a giant mess. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Jack all 4 tires up and put it in 4x4 and neutral and spin the front drive shaft, and see if the rear one spins, my bet is it's something inside of the transfer case Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. As for wheels. 2010- and you will not need adaptors. 2011+ is when the pattern changed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. The center link on my truck is an "isolated" center link that has the bushing that I am assuming is grease filled. The bushing seems to have play in it as well as leaking grease. Is the bushing itself replaceable? Also is the center link replaceable with a 3500 non isolated center link. The bushing is to stop road vibration, a little vibration won't bother me any. I just want to tighten the steering up. Everything else is tight and I do have tie rod sleeves too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Yeah I wish mine didn't have it.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I'm talking about the isolator bushing it goes through. When your under truck and turn the wheel. You can see the pitman arm squishing the bushing before the tires even start to turn. I want to know, if the bushing is changeable? Or is it possible to swap in a 3500hd center link? As I have heard that they do not have the isolator bushing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. All the way on the left. There's a big rubber bushing that's in the center link. The pitman arm goes through it. Unlike the usual solid center link. It's called an isolated center link. It's supposed to reduce road vibration in the steering wheel. There is play in the rubber bushing and there looks to be grease coming out of it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Bump? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Yeah my truck did it violently, but I have 37 inch tires so it made it worse. I replaced all 4 calipers and rotors and pads and it all went away. I would suggest front rotors and pads depending on how they look, or have them cut and sand the pad faces if they still have some decent meat left. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. My 2011 2500hd 6.0 vortec LT 95k miles. 7.5 inch rough country lift, 37x12.50 nitto terra-grapplers, 20x14 fuel mavericks, weatherguard toolbox, rigid industries light bar, and recently just added smoked recon cab lights to replace my broken center light. Future mods are 15+ paintable tow mirrors with reverse lights, flush mount rigid reverse lights in rear bumper, and some new gears. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. My truck is a 2011 2500hd. When I bought it, it did not come with the front tow hooks. I am wanting to get hooks back on the front as times they are needed. I found locally a set off a 1500. Says they will fit 07-13 1500s. My question is will they fit a 2500hd? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. I'm not sure of the part number. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. 20x14 on 2011 2500hd

    My 2011 2500hd currently has 20x10 with a 2 inch wheel adaptor, and 37 inch tires. One of my tires slowly would loose air. 10-15 lbs in 2 weeks. I thought it was a leaking plug. And I put fix a flat in it. Worked fine for a while. When I washed it a few days ago, water was sitting on the wheel and I noticed bubbles coming out from the barrel of the wheel. My wheel had about a 2-3 inch crack in it. I've been looking for new wheels. I want to get rid of the ford adaptors that are on it as well. Well while searching local Craigslist, I found a set of 4 dang near brand new 20x14 fuel mavericks that I can pick up for $600. I know these will add stress on the truck. I currently have stock ucas and stock tie rods. I have sleeves that I am going to install as well. Does anyone else have this set up? Any ill effects? They are a little wider than I would like. But the price I can't pass up. And being it's such a trend to have "stance" I can easily resell The wheels and make money. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. I have a 2011 2500hd, it did not come with factory Bose. I replaced the head unit with a kenwood double din. The head unit change made a world of difference with the factory speakers. I also have 2 10 inch skar audio vd10s under the back seat that are running at about 1000rms. I have been looking at skar audio door speakers to replace the existing factory speakers. The rears are simple, 6 1/2 coaxial. Now the front is where I'm having trouble understanding what to do. I have never used component speakers before, but my understanding of a component, is that the 6 1/2 woofer was just that, a woofer and the tweeter was the tweeter and the part that "sings". Now the factory speakers, to me sound like a coaxial with an additional tweeter, the factory 6 1/2 "sings" as well as the tweeter, do I replace the front speakers with components? And change our the factory tweeter? Or should I just buy a set of 6 1/2 mid bass woofers and replace those while leaving the factory tweeter alone? Also, would a factory Bose tweeter be any better than a factory non Bose tweeter? Basically my 3 questions are, replace woofer and tweeter with aftermarket? Replace just woofer with aftermarket? Or replace woofer with aftermarket, and tweeter replace with Bose factory tweeter? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. Anyone? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. Haha. Worst part about it is, I'm 22.. I'm young and don't even have one. I haven't had one since sophomore year of high school. Always get asked, have you seen this on Facebook??? Nope... no I haven't. Lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. This will be good. Sadly, I think I'm one of the few people left in this world that does not have a Facebook. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. Maybe some day there will be a class action lawsuit on it. Nissan has one right now for the sticky dashes in older Altimas, $200 flat fee to replace the dash with a new one that won't get sticky. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. Also interested in this. Mine is cracked at the passenger airbag, so is my neighbors Tahoe and her fathers duramax Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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