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1Bad16Silverado

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    12
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About 1Bad16Silverado

  • Rank
    Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • Name
    Jeremy
  • Location
    Humble, Tx
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    2016 Silverado Z71 LTZ
  • Interests
    Sweet rides and hot girls
  1. This is the camera. It shows this particular one is currently unavailable, but there are others like it. So far, I think COOLINT brand is the best bang for the buck. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P914PMY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  2. This is the coomatec 1ch mini dvr system. It is pretty solid. Motion activated, or full time record. Supports up to a 64gb memory card. Records on a cycle. And allows for video playback on the screen. I mainly use them on video dvr systems for motorcycles, but they work great in autos. Just cut the brick on the end of the power cable and wire it to a 12v source. I have a few, if you're interested, pm me. Or you can get them on amazon. I'll try to do a write up on the install to the compartment under the cup holders this weekend or when I have time. I was going to do the globe box, but didn't want it messed with by anyone.
  3. Well, this "fix" was merely temporary, as the issue returned. Upon the return of the lights, I replaced the PCV valve, as a different dealership rep told me it may be in my emissions equipment. As the first dealership blamed the lights on the rear O2 sensors being deleted, I figured this may be it. I recently went for an oil change at the same dealership, as I purchased one of the extended oil change plans (it was dumb of me to do). In casual conversation with another service advisor, he mentioned a brake fluid sensor code that came on. I'd never heard of this, simply because I've never messed with a master cylinder before (never had a need). This sparked my curiosity on what exactly this sensor was. Popped the hood, and boom, there it was. What I thought was going to be my nemesis, the sensor. I went to touch it, and the wires just fell out. The way it is supposed to look: How did this sensor wire clip break? When I took it to the same dealership that I purchased the oil package from. and they replaced the brake booster.
  4. Well Mr reyes, it depends on where you're located. Talk to Anthony about ordering the system and then find an installer in your area. Depending on what all you want determines time and cost. If you're in the Houston area, pm me, as I can install it all for you.
  5. Over the last week or so, my "service stabilitrak" turned on along with the red "brake" light on the dash. Sometimes when turning left at low speeds (a little faster than idle), the front driver side caliper would catch the rotor. Something wasn't right. I deemed this as a major safety concern, as I don't want a caliper locking up a tire while I'm driving down the road. I took it to the dealership to have it checked out. 31k miles, most parts are still under the warranty. The dealership service says that the lights are turning on and disabling my stabilitrak due to my rear O2 sensor delete (tuned). This is bullshit, and why I'm not a fan of dealerships. He then tells me there is a code in history that shows the front left wheel speed sensor had an issue, but it was in history and not a concern. To me, this was a concern. I change the wheel speed censor out, $30 and 30 minutes of my time. Pull the negative cable to reset things. Replace cable. Drive a little. Light returns. Change the front brake pads. Thinking maybe they are worn and allowing the piston of the caliper to get stuck. Pull the negative cable. Replace cable. Drive a little. Light returns. Now I'm pissed. In the end, it was the steering wheel position censor. The connection was fretting (losing contact between contacts. I removed the harness. Sprayed it with contact cleaner from an electronics store. Put it back together. All problems resolved. I also went ahead and did the connector for the brake pedal sensor while I was under the dash.
  6. Yes. The cameras came with hole saws. 22.5mm. Each camera has one, and you need both. I went over 1" from the side that connects the mirror to the door, and up 1" from the bottom. The first saw is used to start the hole and scuff where the 22.5 hole will be. The second saw needs to be modified. Cut the drill part to be just longer than the hole. If you don't you will drill into the motor housing. I think clearance was about half an inch. Not a lot.
  7. My ride and joy

    6" rough country lift. 35s on 20" wheels. N-Fab steps. Long tube headers. 6.2L. 360 camera system.
  8. Thanks Tenscourt. I wish I was playing SMB on the NES classic, but they're impossible to find at a good price. I ended up building one. The bars are around it because I haven't changed the settings in the game system to fill the screen. One of those things that just isn't that important to me. Lol
  9. I have installed the 360 camera system that MVI offers. The system is amazing!! The system is relatively easy to install. I used cameras off of amazon for the side cameras. They provided me a cleaner looking end product. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P914W7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 x2 This is the final outcome. All mirror functions were retained. The view from this placement is also comparable to the views of other cameras mounted on the outsides of the mirror housing. Disassembly of the door was an easy to do task. MVI provides a good instructional video on it. If you want stills, message me and I'll send them to you. One thing I did do to help reduce the risk of scratching the door's upper trim while removing the lower trim is I added tape. This is right above where the two pieces meet, as it required some jimmying. Taking the mirror housing off of the door is required. Be sure to support the mirror while removing the 3 nuts. There is also a two pronged plastic clip that keeps the mirror on. Three nuts. Clip Once I had the mirror housing off and on a surface it can be worked on, I put a piece of tape to mark where I wanted to drill. 1" up and 1" over. I then used 2 hole saws that were the same size to drill into the housing. The first one was standard and was used to mark the hole. The second saw was modified to prevent me from drilling into the motor of the folding mechanism. At this point I ran a zip tie through the hole and housing. Taped my camera wire to the zip tie. Then fed it through the channel under the folding mechanism motor. I also went ahead and cut the wire on the camera that gave it parking lines (green wire). Then I wrapped that section with duck tape, as it is a weak point. And as you pull it through the door and everything, it may pull apart. Then you have tiny tiny wires to put back together. Push the camera in the hole. Extremely tight fit. At this point I put the mirror back on the truck, and ran the wire through all the grommets and everything inside the door to get it to the boot that connects the door electronics to the cab. I made the connections here in the boot. That way if the door ever needs to be removed, I'll be able to disconnect the camera at the same time without any fuss. (I know what you're thinking, "why would you ever have to remove the door?" Well, you just never know.) I then ran the video line and power wires through the dash and into the center console. I used a power block (from autozone, $14.99) and piggy backed my power off of a cigarette lighter. This way I could have all the cameras tie in at one place. Then I put everything back together, and viola!! On a side note, I also hid my HDMI and USB ports in my upper glove box. Then ended the day by playing a little Super Mario Brothers on an 8" screen. lol This is my first write up, so please be gentle with the criticism. Lol. If you need more info about a step or something, let me know through pm.
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