paauto replied to 321Gochiefs's topic in Duramax 6.6L Turbo-Diesel (LML), Vortec 6.0L (L96/LC8), Drivetrain, & ExhuastAs far as Regen status, you can monitor it and a bunch of other parameters via an Edge CTS2. I've played around with GM's software in the BCM and the only thing I was able to change on my truck was the tire pressure thresholds. Reduced all four to 50 psi to get the TPMS light to go off b/c that's where i run the tires w/ the truck empty.
I used a wired connection (the MongoosePro GM II) to do it. There may be a way to do it wirelessly, but I couldn't find it.
I was able to change the thresholds today using the MongoosePro GM II as the interface to the OBD port, my laptop and a 2 day subscription to the GM software ($55). Very straightfoward. Set front and rears to 50 psi (345 kPA). It automatically changes the "recommended pressures" in the GM app / Onstar. The annoying low pressure warning is now gone. While i was in there, tried to see if there was a way to turn the high beam assist on but couldn't find it. Will dig around tomorrow if i have time. Best i can tell i have full dealer functionality. For example I could re-flash the ECM and TCM for the recall if i wanted (had dealer do it a few weeks ago).
paauto replied to demar002's topic in 2015 / 2016 / 2017 / 2018 Silverado HD & Sierra HD Accessories & ModificationsExact thing happened to me. Truck is in the shop as i write this having the film replaced. Worth every penny to avoid the paint booth.
paauto replied to johnnyg123's topic in 2015 / 2016 / 2017 / 2018 Silverado HD & Sierra HD Accessories & ModificationsWorth every dollar. I had my front bumper and partial hood done when brand new. Another car recently brushed the corner of the bumper. I thought for sure i was in for a bumper re-paint. lots of paint transfer from the other car and scratches. Turns out the film took all the damage. Peeled it off and like new under. Truck goes in Monday to have the film re-applied.
Once I get it I'll snoop around and see what is modifiable. I have a BMW M5 and had a guy get into the programming using BMW software. On the BMW there are a ton of (~50) different things that can be lit up/modified (essentially check boxes - so no re-mapping anything). Mostly stuff that is de-activitated in the U.S. - e.g. I can (but don't) watch DVDs on my front screen, close windows with my key fob, monitor tire temperatures (apparently the TPMS sensors have thermometers in them), put a lot more functionality (radio, turn signals) in my HUD, remove lawyer messages, turn on high beam assist (if ordered from the factory it costs extra). The list goes on. So, on the GMC wondering what is available outside the US. I read somewhere that there is high beam assist but de-activated on the 2500. Maybe we can figure how to light it up and other stuff.
OK, bit the bullet and bought the MongoosePro GM 2. I'll give it a whirl with the GDS 2 software and see how it works.
So, I'm 0-5 with local dealers. Thinking about buying a MongoosePro GM2 interface (cheapest interface i can find for about $450). The Mongoose apparently acts like the Midi and will allow me to interface the truck to my laptop and pass codes thru. Then buy a 3-day license to GDS2 for $100 and make the changes myself. Aside from being somewhat expensive, any thoughts on this approach?
Yes, diesel. Any idea if there are any other tuners out there that would work on the diesel? Thanks.
Agree, but they don't see it that way unfortunately.
paauto posted a topic in 2015 / 2016 / 2017 / 2018 Silverado HD & Sierra HD Accessories & ModificationsWould like to have my TPMS thresholds reduced because I run my tires at 50 front, 55 rear and am occasionally getting the "low pressure" warnings on the dash. Had the truck into the dealer for the ECM/TCM re-flash and asked if they would do it. They have the capability to do it, but refused citing federal law, etc. Called another dealer and they said no. Anyone know of a dealer in the Pittsburgh area that will change the thresholds? PM me if you do as i doubt they would want it in the open that they are doing this. Thanks.
paauto replied to gearheadesw's topic in 2015 / 2016 / 2017 / 2018 Silverado HD & Sierra HD Accessories & ModificationsDo you have factory fogs?
paauto replied to MotionMan's topic in 2015 / 2016 / 2017 / 2018 Silverado HD & Sierra HD Accessories & Modificationslooking good
paauto posted a topic in 2015 / 2016 / 2017 / 2018 Silverado HD & Sierra HD Accessories & ModificationsHere’s a write up and a link to photos of the installation of my CTS2 Edge, Kleinn train horn, Wolo horn as well as additional lighting on the truck. I’ve also included parts I used and where I sourced them. In the link are several PDFs, including an electrical schematic I drew up. I’m not an EE, so please pardon my drawing. www.paauto.weebly.com I mounted the CTS2 Edge in the center console using a faceplate I bought from Proformance Diesel for $45. I sprayed it matte black and then cleared it with satin. You don’t need to paint it, but the raw plastic looks out of place unpainted in my opinion. I added oil and differential temperature probes to feed the CTS2. Also added a pressure transducer to monitor the pressure in my on-board air tank (more below). I installed the oil temp probe on my AmsOil dual bypass system. On the Proformance console you’ll notice two additional buttons that I added. The left one is for the Kleinn train horn. The right one is for the light bar on the grille. Both of these buttons trigger relays on the Bussmann block under the hood and are “ignition on” only. I added the up fitter module to the junction box under the dash in order to tap into the “ignition on” feed. See attached PDF for details on the up fitter module and the pins/wires needed to be purchased with it. You can get these parts from GM. For the light bar, I also installed a pneumatic floor switch that I put under the carpet behind the emergency brake. It’s completely out of site and works like an old school high beam floor switch. I bought the parts from PresAir (www.senasys.com). The foot pedal is B350BA ($15) and the switch it controls is TVA111A ($20). You can see in the attached schematic that I wired the pneumatic switch in series to the console switch such that the console switch serves as a master switch for my stock horn to a Wolo on demand air horn. I built a bracket and mounted the horn and a waterproof box to house the compressor and relay behind the front bumper (see picture) using the two existing bolts for the bumper. The box is from Home Depot. Note the clear plastic tube coming out of the box. It goes into the engine compartment and allows the box to breath b/c the on-demand compressor draws a vacuum and otherwise will starve itself (not work) without a vent. I wanted a louder horn so I took the plunge and installed a Kleinn HDKIT-630 with an on-board air system. I made a few modifications. I moved the relay from the compressor to under the hood (no way that thing would survive a winter under the truck in Pittsburgh!) and swapped it for a Hella waterproof relay. Also, I added a pressure transducer to feed the CTS2 so I can monitor tank pressure within the cab. It’s an awesome toy (it’ll set car alarms off). The button on the Proformance console controls it. For exterior lighting, I added Rigid led rock lights under the running boards (two on each) and under the back bed as well as floods pointing backwards. I will also be adding flush mount floods to the front bumper air dam (haven’t done it yet). Also put LEDs in the bed and in my tool box in the bed. Lastly, I added an under hood light (one of the Rigid rock lights) and a switch. For the rear facing floods, I hung them off the hitch frame through the large access holes. I needed to make four brackets to provide a solid base to mount them b/c the holes are so big. I made these from bar steel, primed, painted and then undercoated them. I tapped into the dome light feed so when I unlock the truck the running board lights and the light under the bed comes on. I connected the rear floods & the rock lights and the front floods to the CTS2 switch module. Switch 1 controls the front floods and switch 2 controls the running board lights and the rear facing floods. I relocated my spare to my bed and have it lashed down with an N-Fab kit. That allowed me to remove the spare tire winch and free up that space to mount a waterproof box (Home Depot). I simply used the bolt that held the winch in place to hold the box (see pictures). I mounted a three gang relay block (Painless Performance #30107 – bought from Summit Racing) and a four fuse block (Painless Performance #30002 – bought from Summit Racing) in this box. I put a Rigid light on the lid as well to shine directly down from where the spare tire used to be mounted. I tapped into the trailer harness for power (30 amp / always powered) for the rear box. As discussed above, I tapped into the dome light feed. It’s on the back of the junction box under the dash – kind of a PITA to access. I had to remove the junction box from the floor, then disconnect the module and then find the wire and tap into it. You guys would know that the dome light fades up and down instead of turning on and off instantly (which I think is accomplished by the computer rapidly turning the light on and off in succession). This fade effect played havoc with a standard relay – it would chatter loudly on & off until the dome was fully powered on or off (about 3 seconds). To overcome, I used a Beuler BU508TD adjustable time delay relay (see PDF). This is a really cool product – it essentially holds the trigger closed (on) for an adjustable amount of time after power is removed. I set it to about 5 seconds. That way once the dome light starts to spool up, it triggers the relay and the relay stays closed, thereby powering the running board lights and eliminating the chatter. For power distribution under the hood, I went with a Bussmann 15303-5. This thing gives you five relay slots and 10 fuse slots. It can handle 80 amps. You have to buy the relays and all the fittings (terminals, plugs and bushings) separately (see attached PDF). You can purchase from Waytek - www.waytekwire.com and/or on Amazon. For my pigtail connections, I used MSD Ignition Deutsch waterproof connectors, which I bought from Summit Racing. I wrapped everything in convoluted tubing. Lastly, I bought a couple of cans of Nox-Rust X-121B from Daubert Chemical Company (www.daubertchemical.com) to re-spray areas where I rubbed that nasty wax coating off as I was crawling around hooking all this stuff off. I believe this is the same stuff that’s applied at the factory to the frame. So, that’s how I wasted a lot of time and money in August!
paauto replied to Spurshot's topic in 2014 / 2015 / 2016 / 2017 / 2018 Silverado & Sierra Accessories & ModificationsOne way would be tap into the high beam circuit under the hood at one of the lights. Then run that wire thru the firewall to your switch and then back out the firewall to a relay. That way when the high beams are on and your switch is on, it would activate the relay and power the light bar. Sounds like you've already got the hard part done - running the wires thru the firewall and installing the switch. You just need to re-wire one end of the loop to tap into the high beams. The other end goes to the relay to turn it on/off.
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