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About paauto

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    2017 GMC 2500HD, 2013 BMW M5

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  1. Here’s a write up and a link to photos of the installation of my CTS2 Edge, Kleinn train horn, Wolo horn as well as additional lighting on the truck. I’ve also included parts I used and where I sourced them. In the link are several PDFs, including an electrical schematic I drew up. I’m not an EE, so please pardon my drawing. www.paauto.weebly.com I mounted the CTS2 Edge in the center console using a faceplate I bought from Proformance Diesel for $45. I sprayed it matte black and then cleared it with satin. You don’t need to paint it, but the raw plastic looks out of place unpainted in my opinion. I added oil and differential temperature probes to feed the CTS2. Also added a pressure transducer to monitor the pressure in my on-board air tank (more below). I installed the oil temp probe on my AmsOil dual bypass system. On the Proformance console you’ll notice two additional buttons that I added. The left one is for the Kleinn train horn. The right one is for the light bar on the grille. Both of these buttons trigger relays on the Bussmann block under the hood and are “ignition on” only. I added the up fitter module to the junction box under the dash in order to tap into the “ignition on” feed. See attached PDF for details on the up fitter module and the pins/wires needed to be purchased with it. You can get these parts from GM. For the light bar, I also installed a pneumatic floor switch that I put under the carpet behind the emergency brake. It’s completely out of site and works like an old school high beam floor switch. I bought the parts from PresAir (www.senasys.com). The foot pedal is B350BA ($15) and the switch it controls is TVA111A ($20). You can see in the attached schematic that I wired the pneumatic switch in series to the console switch such that the console switch serves as a master switch for my stock horn to a Wolo on demand air horn. I built a bracket and mounted the horn and a waterproof box to house the compressor and relay behind the front bumper (see picture) using the two existing bolts for the bumper. The box is from Home Depot. Note the clear plastic tube coming out of the box. It goes into the engine compartment and allows the box to breath b/c the on-demand compressor draws a vacuum and otherwise will starve itself (not work) without a vent. I wanted a louder horn so I took the plunge and installed a Kleinn HDKIT-630 with an on-board air system. I made a few modifications. I moved the relay from the compressor to under the hood (no way that thing would survive a winter under the truck in Pittsburgh!) and swapped it for a Hella waterproof relay. Also, I added a pressure transducer to feed the CTS2 so I can monitor tank pressure within the cab. It’s an awesome toy (it’ll set car alarms off). The button on the Proformance console controls it. For exterior lighting, I added Rigid led rock lights under the running boards (two on each) and under the back bed as well as floods pointing backwards. I will also be adding flush mount floods to the front bumper air dam (haven’t done it yet). Also put LEDs in the bed and in my tool box in the bed. Lastly, I added an under hood light (one of the Rigid rock lights) and a switch. For the rear facing floods, I hung them off the hitch frame through the large access holes. I needed to make four brackets to provide a solid base to mount them b/c the holes are so big. I made these from bar steel, primed, painted and then undercoated them. I tapped into the dome light feed so when I unlock the truck the running board lights and the light under the bed comes on. I connected the rear floods & the rock lights and the front floods to the CTS2 switch module. Switch 1 controls the front floods and switch 2 controls the running board lights and the rear facing floods. I relocated my spare to my bed and have it lashed down with an N-Fab kit. That allowed me to remove the spare tire winch and free up that space to mount a waterproof box (Home Depot). I simply used the bolt that held the winch in place to hold the box (see pictures). I mounted a three gang relay block (Painless Performance #30107 – bought from Summit Racing) and a four fuse block (Painless Performance #30002 – bought from Summit Racing) in this box. I put a Rigid light on the lid as well to shine directly down from where the spare tire used to be mounted. I tapped into the trailer harness for power (30 amp / always powered) for the rear box. As discussed above, I tapped into the dome light feed. It’s on the back of the junction box under the dash – kind of a PITA to access. I had to remove the junction box from the floor, then disconnect the module and then find the wire and tap into it. You guys would know that the dome light fades up and down instead of turning on and off instantly (which I think is accomplished by the computer rapidly turning the light on and off in succession). This fade effect played havoc with a standard relay – it would chatter loudly on & off until the dome was fully powered on or off (about 3 seconds). To overcome, I used a Beuler BU508TD adjustable time delay relay (see PDF). This is a really cool product – it essentially holds the trigger closed (on) for an adjustable amount of time after power is removed. I set it to about 5 seconds. That way once the dome light starts to spool up, it triggers the relay and the relay stays closed, thereby powering the running board lights and eliminating the chatter. For power distribution under the hood, I went with a Bussmann 15303-5. This thing gives you five relay slots and 10 fuse slots. It can handle 80 amps. You have to buy the relays and all the fittings (terminals, plugs and bushings) separately (see attached PDF). You can purchase from Waytek - www.waytekwire.com and/or on Amazon. For my pigtail connections, I used MSD Ignition Deutsch waterproof connectors, which I bought from Summit Racing. I wrapped everything in convoluted tubing. Lastly, I bought a couple of cans of Nox-Rust X-121B from Daubert Chemical Company (www.daubertchemical.com) to re-spray areas where I rubbed that nasty wax coating off as I was crawling around hooking all this stuff off. I believe this is the same stuff that’s applied at the factory to the frame. So, that’s how I wasted a lot of time and money in August!
  2. One way would be tap into the high beam circuit under the hood at one of the lights. Then run that wire thru the firewall to your switch and then back out the firewall to a relay. That way when the high beams are on and your switch is on, it would activate the relay and power the light bar. Sounds like you've already got the hard part done - running the wires thru the firewall and installing the switch. You just need to re-wire one end of the loop to tap into the high beams. The other end goes to the relay to turn it on/off.
  3. I've got 20% on the fronts doors. Going in later this week to have clear applied to the rear doors, rear windows and sunroof. Apparently factory tint does not block UV, but film tint does. I need to cut the heat out and want to preserve the interior.
  4. Sounds like they definitely changed the internal settings if the App is giving you a warning. Very cool.
  5. I have. I'll take the thing apart and figure out how it works. I want to paint the intake black anyway. Good excuse to play in the garage this weekend.
  6. Any chance you can post the BFG pressure chart for the KO2's? That's what I run.
  7. I run my fronts at 50, rears at 55. The only time I had a warning was when I had a rear wheel off to have it re-balanced. The tech set the pressure to 55 and the TPMS light came on. I filled it to 60 and re-iniatilized the system as if I had just rotated the tires (I have the sync tool). Light went off. I then bled that tire to 55 and the light stayed off. Another weird thing. My OnStar monitoring (online and thru the iPhone App) shows the "Low Tire Pressure" warning for all four tires. Nothing in the DIC though.
  8. When I open the hood after a rain water comes pouring out on the passenger side (good 6+ ounces) and drips into the aft part of the air box below. Have resorted to having a towel in hand and throwing it over the box when I open the hood. Are others experiencing this or do i have clogged drain hole or some other issue?
  9. In my '88 Bronco had to back up 10 feet after going from 4 to 2 in order to disengage the hubs and stop the front wheels from turning the front drive shaft.
  10. Do we need to back the truck up 10 feet or so after going from 4 to 2 to disengage the hubs?
  11. I checked the owner's manual. Sounds like you need to move the knob while the truck is on for it to actually shift into 4wd. So I think maybe it was moved while the truck was off, like your situation. I didn't notice any binding when driving so it makes sense. By the way, do we have to back the truck up when going from 4wd to 2wd in order to disengage the hubs completely? Used to have to do this with my '88 Bronco.

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