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About adamj2121

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  • Birthday March 28

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    2016 Silverado 1500

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  1. 55k is too much, IMO. I would also guess that the truck has some sort of issue if it was traded in w/ 2,000 miles on it. I would be tempted if the price was under $50k, depending on options. And like others said take it for a long test drive on different roads, some places around here do 24 hour extended test drives, I would actually request 24 hour test drive if I were in your position.
  2. Well MSRP on both Fabtech and BDS kits is just over $2,000 usually you can get these at a discounted rate through the installer, but there is no guarantee. Most places charge around $500 - $800 to install and do an alignment. So you aren't going to get off much cheaper for a 6" lift. ALC uses EGR fender flares, not sure about SCA, but those will run about $450 unpainted. Tires are another $1000-$1500, depending on brand and such. Wheels are $800-$1600 on average depending on what you want. Not sure what SCA charges for their wheels. So you aren't going to be able to do your modifications for cheap. EDIT: Just got on SCA's website their 20" wheels are $330 a piece, so about $1,300 for a set. And you can buy the wheels directly from their site: http://www.scaperformance.com/chevrolet-products/sca-performance-20-inch-wheel-gloss-black-with-milled-spoke-accents
  3. From my understanding you can purchase accessories from SCA, like the wheels, their bumpers, etc. but if you want a truck that is lifted by them and backed by their warranty you would need to purchase from a dealer. That being said you could buy a BDS, Fabtech, McGaughy's or other lift and have it installed by any reputable shop and you should be good. Figure $2,000 for the lift kit and $1,000 for install (it shouldn't cost quite that much, but it is better to budget for more and have money left over when it is cheaper)
  4. That definitely sucks. The best solution is to bring the truck back to the dealer you purchased it from and express your concerns. My rear door (crew cab model) was getting hung up when I was trying to close it, it wasn't in an accident, the dealer fixed it under warranty. They didn't tell me the problem or solution, but I imagine they just greased the moving components. It could be as simple as that, or there could be hidden repairs with your truck. If that is the case you will be protected by consumer laws and able to get your money back out of the truck.
  5. That is a bummer. Definitely sounds like complete BS to me. They escalated my case to "priority" which I am sure they tell everyone. If I were you I think my next step would be to contact the Better Business Bureau and discuss the lemon law in your state and see if your vehicle would be eligible to be covered underneath it.
  6. Call GM Directly: 1-866-636-2273 or email: [email protected] I just called on Saturday to start a case with my truck for 4wd vibrations, transmission issues, and rear leaf spring noise that the dealership has been unable or unwilling to fix over the last year. I was told it would be a minimum of two business days before I hear anything from my case manager, but it is the best way I know of to get connected to a GM representative. Someone else may have a better or more efficient solution.
  7. It depends, if it is the exact spec you are looking for and that spec is hard to find then I’d probably go ahead and buy it. If it is a fairly commonly available spec, or you are flexible on what you want, then I’d wait a little longer and see where prices go. As we get closer to 2019s being available prices should go down considerably.
  8. Not to hijack the thread, but my truck picks up a nasty vibration under light acceleration in 4 auto that is made even worse in 4hi and disappears completely in 2wd. Any ideas on the cause of this? from your post it sounds like it could be the front differential? It is at the dealership, but I called today to check on it and was met with the typical line of "There are no codes and we couldn't duplicate the issue."
  9. Here are some photos, I haven't been under the truck to check the offset on the wheels but based on manufacturer specs they are either +18 or -12. It looks like if you push the wheels out further you might run into the tire hitting the front bumper. Clearance toward the cab looks like it would be enough, but it could be tight when flexing, granted I am running flares so I lose some clearance there anyway.
  10. With a -44 offset you may need some additional trimming. I'm not sure what the offset on my wheels are, but my tires are also 325/60r20, so I'm a little wider than guys that are running 35x12.50. That may be why I had to trim and one of the other members did not need to. I'll try to get some pictures of my truck today or tomorrow showing the remaining clearance at full lock that way you can get an idea of how much clearance there is.
  11. I would recommend the zone lift, they are a sub brand of BDS and I am very pleased with the quality of my BDS lift. As far as tires goes, you are going to need a lot of trimming to fit 37s. I am running a 6" lift with 35's and I had to trim the plastic piece behind the driver's tire and the front valence. With 37's and -44 offset your tires will definitely be hitting the bumper when you turn. I'm not sure how close your clearance will be at the cab.
  12. Had similar issues with mine and it ended up being the negative battery cable. The cable needed to be replaced, it took over a month to find the issue.
  13. If you were to regear I would definitely jump up to 4.10 ratio from Yukon gears. You won't notice a major change with 3.73s and you are also moving to a heavier and wider tire than factory, so the diameter is not the only factor impacting power loss. 4.10s will feel closer to factory gearing if not slightly more aggressive. If I were you I would find an exhaust you like the sound of, if you want increased sound, and get a tune from black bear. Then if you still feel like you need more power you would need to regear or go forced induction.
  14. How long have you owned the truck? If it hasn't been very long I would talk to the dealer your purchased the truck from and inform them there is a drivability issue with the truck that was not present during the test drive. Inform them that you are very dissatisfied with your purchase and would like to know what your options are. Dealers don't want to lose potential future customers. Someone who is 25 years old is apt to buy a number of vehicles in the future. The dealership may not work on the truck for free but they may offer a better trade in deal, or discounted labor rates for diagnosing the problem. It never hurts to see what a dealer is willing to do, if you don't like their offer you can always refuse and seek alternatives, such as finding a competent shop to work on the truck and fix the driveline vibration.

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