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Mike GMC

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Mike GMC last won the day on March 13

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About Mike GMC

  • Rank
    Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • Name
    Mike
  • Location
    Colorado
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    2000 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT Z71, 15 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT All Terrain

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  1. Pressure regulator is on the driver's side on the fuel rail. It has a vacuum line to it. Pressure test port in on the rail on the passenger side. Should have a cap on it. Inside it looks like a big tire valve stem. It's called a shrader valve. You'll need a high pressure gauge to read it.
  2. Is this a software or a hardware change? If it's software, and a 16 built with a 15 radio can be upgraded, then a 15 built with a 15 radio could be upgraded as well. If it's hardware, can a 15 be upgraded to a 16 radio?
  3. Nice! You'll love the MX4. I have one on my 15 AT standard box, it's a great cover. Watch for sales on them near holidays. I got mine for $835 shipped.
  4. The only special feature the filter could possibly have is an anti drain back valve. All good filters that meet the specs for that engine will have this feature. I use Amsoil filters because I like them. Use what you like. Do some filter research. They are not all made the same way. Check out bobistheoilguy.com. lots of really good analyis and comparison.
  5. Looks great! I love black, but I won't buy another one. I've had my black Camaro SS for 18 years and keeping it clean is very difficult. I wish there were good deals in my area. They actually seem particularly bad right now. Even Laura doesn't have what I would want right now.
  6. The inspection cover is that big shiny disc in you video.
  7. No, the bell housing should be dry. If you get any fliud, you have more problems.
  8. If the flex plate is damaged the trans will need to come out to replace it. Or you could pull the engine, your choice.
  9. My first guess is that the shocks are too long for your ride height. When you hit bumps, it bottoms out the travel and shoves it up through the mount. But that is just a guess.
  10. Good thought. Definitely worth checking. I checked mine when I tightened the bolts. It was good from what I could see. You can see quite a bit of the flex plate with the stater out. You can see a bit of the rest though the inspection plug.
  11. The "Catch Can" Explained

    That's what I have. It would seem to me that the second valve could be plumbed to the "spare" port on the passenger side of the air box rather than tapped into the top center. The air velocity would be much lower at that port, but it might still work fine if you want a dual valve and want be able to go back to stock quickly and easily.
  12. Have you checked your torque converter bolts? For some reason, they seem to like to loosen. Pull the starter and roll the engine by hand until each of the 3 bolts appears in the starter hole. They should be at 44 ft-lbs. If they are loose, you might consider lock tight before you torque them down. Mine were finger tight when I swapped engines. I did not lock tight when I swapped motors. I should have. I just had to tighten them again. This time with lock tight.
  13. The "Catch Can" Explained

    Read the rest of this last page, should cover your warranty questions.
  14. The "Catch Can" Explained

    If freezing is a really big concern in your area, you might want to use the master cylinder bolt mounting location. That puts the can near the driver's side exhaust manifold. Probably the warmest place you could mount it.
  15. The "Catch Can" Explained

    Why would this be any different than the factory plastic tubes? Engine heat will melt any ice formations in the can/plumbing same as it would in the factory direct connected system. Most mosture will likely drain back long before the engine cools enough to allow any freezing anyway.
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