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kickass audio

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About kickass audio

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  • Birthday July 28

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  • Location
    Buffalo, NY
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  • Drives
    2014 Chevrolet Silverado LT

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  1. Not liking the look of it at all. I'll stick with my 14. The current edition of the silverado looks a lot better IMO. The front end looks horrible and the back end looks just like a tundra. I guess GM wants to have the truck crossbred between a silverado, tundra, ridgeline.
  2. I haven't tried to take the ones out of my silverado at all since they work good enough for me and upgrading isn't worth the time. When I had my GMC Envoy, the dash was the same for the tweeters in the front of the dashboard except they were not at an angle like the silverado. I just used a small stubby wrench with a socket on it to remove the screws and then pull the speaker up and out. It is a tight fit but you can get it out. I was lucky enough to have one of the thru-sockets that you can use for long bolts and it is a little more shallow than a traditional socket and wrench so it was a tight fit but it still worked and I was able to get the tweeters up and out.
  3. They are matching your TPMS to the frequency range your truck came with. There are a few frequency ranges out there so they need to pair it up with the frequency your vehicle can communicate with, otherwise the TPMS will never pair to your truck. I bought this pairing tool from amazon on prime day: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072BK693N/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It's the same tool as linked above on ebay for cheaper. Mine came with a 9v battery but it was dead as hell. If you find that when you hold down the pairing button for 5 seconds or longer that the low bat light flashes you need a new battery on the pairing tool. When I rotated my tires and had to remap the sensors I started at the drivers front tire and went around the truck clockwise (left front>right front>right rear>left rear). It's super easy to pair them up and your horn honks to confirm the tire is paired and the pairing process is completed so you know you did it. My only suggestion is to get a tool that can pair different frequencies if you run multiple vehicles. Confirm by the RPO code what frequency your vehicles work on so you can use one tool for all your vehicles if possible. I am lucky that my Silverado works on the 315mHz frequency the same as my girlfriends Hyundai Accent so we can pair one anothers tires up to the car.
  4. My immobilizer was showing to wire the yellow/red & orange/black are wired to the vehicle side of the immobilizer wire while the orange/red is connected to the connector end of the immobilizer wire. The programming guide does not show anything for it continually flashing red when it's first plugged in after having the firmware freshly flashed from my computer.
  5. Yes sorry, I have the programmer for the dball and it had the firmware flashed for the truck from my computer. The odd part I noticed but maybe it takes even longer I don't know but on the instructions when trying to get the module to learn the truck it says to wait until the dball shows as solid green then turn the key to acc and then to on then turn it off. Mine never went to solid green before I turned the key. It was flashing red the whole time without a key in and when I turned the key to acc it flashed green and same for on. Then when I removed the key it continued to flash green for a second and the truck made the chime like you hear when first starting the truck and the dball turned off and the chime went away. Maybe that is where my problem is? My envoy has the same starting as this truck has. The pcm controls it all and only when you lose battery power does that feature of continuing to crank the engine stop working temporarily for one start cycle.
  6. I did program the dball to my silverado. I know the dball works for the bypass because it allows me to start the truck with the key fine. I would take it in but every damn shop around here is pathetic and I can't stand any of their work so I do it myself.
  7. Hey everyone, first I wanted to thank everyone on here for the great posts for me to learn off of. This site is amazing! Anyway, this is my first post on here and I have a 2014 Chevrolet Silverado LT that came from the factory with the remote start option however I don't like the range of the factory remote and having to keep extending the timer after 10 minutes so I was going to put in the aftermarket remote start I had in my previous vehicle (2004 GMC Envoy). Well when I went to go and do this I got everything hooked up perfectly and when I went to program the DBALL2 module for bypassing the security system it would only have my truck run off accessories when I would remote start the truck. It would never try to crank the truck or run off the RUN part of the ignition switch. My question is this, has anyone put an aftermarket remote start in the truck or has everyone from what it seems been programming the OEM remote start in the truck and adding that on? My remote starter I am using is a Viper 5901 with a Dball2 module to bypass the security (it even allows the OEM remote to arm and disarm the aftermarket system and even roll up my windows when I have them down and press the lock button on the remote).

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