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About MegaCode360

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  • Location
    Houston, TX
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  • Drives
    2015 Silverado LTZ/Z71 Crew Silver Ice

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  1. I'm doing HIDs as well. Did you keep hallogen for the high beans or switch to LED for those?
  2. Hey, to bring up an old subject here, you're saying that if the LED headlight is being used as DRLs, you don't need the heatsink on the back of the bulb? I have a 15 Silverado that uses the low beams as DRL, so for these lights that come with big heatsinks, are you saying I can take them off?
  3. It was a pretty bad haze but it's not hazy anynore after the maguars Scratch x. But the clear coat scratches and duct tape pattern are noticable in certain light even though it's on the roof because it's the front part of the roof that slopes down and kind of faces the front, right around the xm antenna. I will mull it over and see if after a week or two it still bugs me lol. I just wanted to get some opinions on the best route to go if I do decide to get it fixed.
  4. Yeah seriously, where you at in TX? haha
  5. Hi guys, Few weeks back, I had the dreaded XM antenna leak. When it started leaking, in a pinch all I had was a sheet of plastic and duct tape. I taped the plastic over the antenna with duct tape. Fast forward to them fixing it. When they removed the tape, it left a residue. I cleaned it off with alcohol, but it left the finish hazy. I used some Maguars scratch X to try to polish it back to shiny, which it did, but I can now see scratches in the clear coat, and even some of the duct tape "checker board" adhesive pattern on the clear coat in certain light. Its not terrible, but noticeable in certain lighting conditions. Now that I have admitted my F-up lol, I need some advice. Should I take it to a body shop for repair or a good detail shop for paint correction procedure? I cant feel any of these scratches with my nail, so they appear to be superficial or small, but I cant get them out with the Scratch X, nor will it removed the faint checker pattern from the tape. Thanks in advance guys!
  6. The OEM ones come painted, and I assume it's a similar material, so it can be painted. I have just the regular black OEMs so I don't know how the paint would hold up. I has WT on my last truck, and the OEM flaps on my current truck seem stiffer and thicker, so maybe they don't flex as much as the WT would. Nonetheless, I wouldn't bother painting the side of them that faces the wheel; even the painted OEMs leave it black. If you are able to paint them yourself, I say just go for it and see how it holds up. The WTs are inexpensive so worst case you get a new pair or pick up a set of painted OEM flaps.
  7. I would tell them you want a truck with the controller
  8. You got some reading to do, my friend!
  9. Mines a 15 but I never used the plug. I've tried maybe 2-3 times getting stuff to plug in but gave up cause it wouldn't go in. So it really has never truly been used. I guess I better see if I can get something in there to see if it works before my warranty is up in May haha
  10. I have another problem. Everytime I try to plug something it, the prongs go halfway in and it feels like it can't go in any further, like it's meeting resistance. I don't want to apply too much pressure to get the plug in the socket for fear of breaking something. I have reversed the plug thinking I was trying to plug it in backwards, but that's not the case. Any suggestions?
  11. Depending on how big the trailer is, in terms of dimensions, you might be better off with the 2500. Even if the weight is within the 1500 max tow specs, external forces (crosswinds, drag, flex) on a trailer large in size might be too hard on the 1500. Plus, you said up to 600 miles per month and thru mountains, the 2500 Duramax would be my choice. It wouldn't let you down.
  12. I have a 15 Silverado LTZ. Decided I'm doing HID for the projector low beams. What LEDs are you guys with 14-15 Chevy LTZs running in the high beams that will fit behind the dust caps? Thanks

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