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About Crazyjoker77

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    2017 5.3L 4X4 1500

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  1. I just went with the factory outfitter switches.
  2. Close enough. It is indeed a ST185 but as its true JDM it got the GT-Four designation Specifically the GT-Four A Spec because it has the widebody flared front and rear fenders. Al-trac was strictly for the USDM and made slightly less power. One box of internet cookies for you!
  3. I don't think its always a problem with aiming the headlights I live in the middle of the prairies where its ridiculously flat and 60% of the vehicles are trucks, most have company decals on the side so its likely their leased and unlikely that there modified and its always super easy to pick out the new k2 with the factory LED lights. They just seem to glare so much. I'm a huge nerd when it comes to lighting and have played with so many different light setups on many different vehicles. Even worked at a couple dealerships where I used headlight aiming machines and received training in lighting standards and how to use it. I proper projector setup should be razor sharp like. but the k2s seem to have so much glare above the "cut off line" as in this photo that im borrowing from another thread where hes comparing the stock 25w hid to the morimoto 35w Kit. Their is a difference in brightness but the beam pattern stays the same and shows lots of glare or light bleed. with the LED bulbs there just brighter but maintain a very similar pattern. Also from driving other vehicles with "proper" projector setups street signs never get illuminated and are impossible to read but I don't have that issue when Im driving My k2 with the factory HID which tell me there is indeed glare from the factory lights... Kind of off topic now but its always a interesting point to bring up is one of the best lighting upgrades I've done to a vehicle is not going HID, or LED but just to a better standard with higher wattage bulbs and a relay harness (which will always make halogen bulbs brighter) Here is a pic of my Japanese Imported car comparing the factory 4x6 sealed beam(45/55w) to some Hella E Code (the european lighting standard) with some super cheap ebay 90/100W bulbs and a relay harness(which increases brightness of a halogen bulb by reducing the voltage drop from the small factory wiring and prevents the factory harness from melting) It also shows the difference between the japanese lighting standard (which is RHD) and the LHD E code standard. (Bonus points to anyone that can guess the car =p)
  4. Really surprised a company like rough country hasn't come out with a plug in error eliminator. I'm sure it would sell well with the amount of people wanting to remove these for various reasons. I would hate to cut up the factory part as I',m sure its expensive (anyone know the actual cost?) I ended up just getting the rough country Bull Bar with the built in 90W led bar because I couldn't be bothered with the amount of work to get the LED bar in the grill.
  5. Heres the comparison video. Really should of turned the auto exposure off on the dashcam.
  6. I'm a huge light nerd, only had the truck barely a month but I've already added 2 12" double row LED bars to the factory Sport bar and just finished the install of the rough contry led bull bar. I was originally going to go with the Lund Bull bar as I do think it looks slightly better but the RC bar is suppose to be twice as bright (lund [email protected] lumens, RC [email protected] lumens) and the fact it was cheaper apealed to my inner cheapskate. I still want to add some 2" cube A pillar lights than mounts to the hood hinges. Short dash cam footage of me briefly playing around with the lights
  7. Aftermarket install of a factory switch(s) count? Its the GM upfitter switches but they have to be wired to relays as they arent rated for very much current and its next to impossible to get them to work in a factory manor unless the truck originally came with the super rare option.
  8. Its bright enough, very floody but isn't nearly as bright as the 2x 12" double rows on the roof. I was originally planning on getting the lund led bar but decided to get the rough country as it claims to be a lot brighter and was less cost. The lund claims 54w @ 3k lumens the RC is 90w @ 7k lumens. First thing I did when I got it was measure the power as mfr like to inflate their claims but it did actually pull 92W. I did not use the relay harness the bar shipped with and opted to make my own. When it gets dark ill go get some comparison video of the lights.
  9. The bull bar finally showed up from Rough Country it was ordered the exact same time as my 12" light bars that I installed ages ago.
  10. I can't say for sure what will work as my truck came with factory HID but I used a relay harness from VVME.com on my mustang and on my GF hyundai and they have been working flawlessly for 4years now. That being said GM's use a much lower PWM frequency so what worked on those vehicles wont necessarily work on yours. Although before ordering this harness I tried a 12v relay that I had laying around from a multipack that I bought from a local autoparts store and got chattering with it on both vehicles. They are only like 10$ so not much lost if it doesn't work out for you.
  11. Even if they send you a new relay its more than likely going to behave the same if its the same specs. Its not that anything is defective it just the fact your are using a 12v relay and its being fed with a PWM signal for the DRL which is a PWM(square) waveform with an effective voltage of around 8-9v this is compounded by the fact GM uses a low frequency PWM signal. What you hear is called chattering and relays do it when they are not provided with enough voltage to properly seat in the relay. PWM works great for extending the life of an incandescent bulb but has the opposite effect for an electromagnetic relay. Capacitors can help smooth the waveform and may help in some situations, but a better solution is to get a relay with a wider operating range or you could always just turn your headlights on every time you get in the truck and avoid using the DRLs.
  12. Looking at swapping out my bumper on my 2017 silverado and of course have some questions. Reason for wanting to swap out is be able to mount some DOT foglights. I've only looked at OEM bumpers but would consider aftermarket if its similar priced and some DOT fog lights can be mounted. I'm aware that getting the foglights installed to work like factory is quite the undertaking but I'm not concerned about that and really am just wondering how much compatibility there is between the different trims/years of bumpers. Seems the bumper off the midnight edition truck is what I'm looking for. Seems there is only a few basic bumper for the 17 siverados. WT Body colored w/o fogs Body colored w/ fogs Chrome w/ fogs I'm assuming the bumpers are modular(hopefully someone can clarify) as I've seen the above configurations with different color lower valences but just from pictures online its hard to tell exactly how many different variations there are. Silver & flat black for sure and possibly chrome and body colored? Are all the bumpers interchangeable? How many parts make up the bumper? Are they available from the factory painted? What parts are reusable from my current truck? Can the earlier 14+ bumpers be used? Are all the bumpers metal like the WT bumper or are they polyurethane? I'm assuming the tow hooks are all the same. Are all the 16+ foglights LED? Whats the part number? Do they come with the mounts or mount to the bumper directly? What bulb connector do they use? Heres some pictures of the different bumpers I've found to save people from googling... WT (WT, Special Ops, Blackout Edition) Body Colored W/fogs, Chrome lower valence??? (z71?) Body Colored w/o fogs, Blk lower valence (rally 1) Body Colored w/ fogs, Silver valence (rally 2) Body Colored w/ fogs Blk lower valence (midnight edition) Chrome w/ fogs

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