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garagerog last won the day on December 29 2017

garagerog had the most liked content!

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About garagerog

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    2005 K1500

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  1. Might be fine for some people, guess I'm just not so trusting for strangers to be peering around the inside of my vehicle.
  2. Pull the leads from the clutch switch, use an alligator clip to hold them together and try starting to verify if indeed the clutch switch is bad, don't forget you'll need to be in neutral or have the clutch pedal depressed. I've had a couple of those go bad on manual transmission vehicles I've had in the past, I ended up just bypassing the clutch safety switch.
  3. Will be interesting to see if we see any more posts from Sal, if not, we know his wife has seen this.
  4. Most of the vacuum boosted power brake vehicles I've owned, especially the older ones, will make a "whoosh" sound when first actuating the brake pedal, especially if they've sat for awhile.
  5. The 2nd picture almost looks like that duct tape is on the auxiliary transmission cooler? Do you have the towing package or does the 6.2 come standard with an auxiliary tranny cooler? What is your DIC telling you that your transmission temps are running at? If that tape is on the auxiliary trans cooler maybe optimum transmission operating temps are not coming up quick enough and this is GM's idea of a field or quick fix.
  6. Not that uncommon for a carbed vehicle sitting weeks between starts. The gasoline in the fuel bowl either evaporates and/or drains back into the fuel line as there is no constant pressure in the fuel system as there is in modern FI engines. I have one carbed vehicle, a 71 Chevelle SS I've had since new and many years ago I replaced the quadrajet on it with an Edelbrock spread bore, it has been more trouble free over all than the quadrajet, but it suffers from the hard starts like you have mentioned if it sits for a week or more. It takes several cranking cycles for it to start, but it always does. You don't want to lay on the starter to long at the risk of overheating it and causing damage. Once my Chevelle has started after sitting for some time, all you have to do is give the ignition key the hairy eyeball and it fires right up. About the only thing I can suggest that would be easier than pulling the lid off the air cleaner and pouring raw gas straight into the carb would to be trying a short spray of starting fluid into the air cleaner snout, just don't give it to much at once.
  7. Sounds like squirrels with the acorns, I assume you're having to park your truck outside at night. This may sound nuts (sorry about the pun) but you might see if you can find a "scarecrow" owl or cat and attach some sort of a magnetic base that has a felt pad to protect the paint and place it near the passenger side cowl area right behind the hood. Check on-line, I know you can at least find scarecrow owls, I found them easy enough when trying to find something to keep the squirrels out of my wife's flowerbeds a couple of years ago. Like I mentioned you may have to rig up some sort of magnetic base for easy removal and replace.
  8. Cam, did you have to re-flash your PCM to make the 2007 engine work? I may be wrong but I think 2007 was the first year of the AFM 5.3's. Not to beat on you, but I think I would have re-built your original engine rather than put a 130,000 mile AFM engine in as a replacement. It's possible the noise you're hearing is a lifter tick related to the AFM, and if so the problems will only get worse, sooner, not later. If you're not familiar with the AFM problems, there is a lot of information on this forum about them, good luck!
  9. Exactly, same here, bought a 2017 Nox LT, with the NA 2.4L engine. Although these engines have had problems in the past, I wasn't willing to gamble on a new platform with a turbocharged smaller engine. 10,000+ miles on my wife's 2017 Nox so far, and no issues at all, not even a little nit-picking one. So hopefully with decent engine and transmission maintenance, it will give her many trouble free miles. In a few years we'll know how the 1.5 and 2.0 turbos hold up.
  10. Should you stay away from LT tires? not necessarily, those are available in all-season patterns too, but unless you tow heavy loads a P-rated tire will give you a smoother ride. Tirerack.com is your friend when picking out a tire, lots of reviews on all the available tires for your rig there.
  11. I'm old so my opinion probably doesn't count for much, but I've followed tire threads along with many others on this forum. Aggressive lug tread mud and snow tires may look cool or manly, but unless at least 50% of your driving is in mud or snow conditions most people would be better served with a good all season tire, especially if you have 4wd as a backup. Take the OP's pictures of his tread pattern, there is no easy way for water to channel off in heavy rain at highway speeds, it has hydroplane written all over it, in fact that should be on the sidewall. And as far as auto 4wd, in my experience if your at 50 mph+ you're already in trouble before it kicks in.
  12. Spot on Don, there is a lot more to towing a trailer than just how quick the tow vehicle is, don't think I've ever seen a drag race with a p/u towing a trailer, or for that matter racing up Pike's Peak. Now that I think about it, a 1500 6.2 might win the 1/4 mile towing a TT, but the 6.0 2500 would make it to the top of Pikes Peak either before or after said TT pulled the 1500 over one of those embankments, long ways down.
  13. The 2005 K1500 that I inherited from my Dad a couple of years ago has always had a wonky hour meter, it never has seemed right, a couple of months ago it reset itself to 0 hours on it's own, driver can not do that, but oh well that era of Silvy's was well known for inaccurate hour meters. That said I would like to see a feature for engine hours , 2 settings, one for total hours that the driver/owner could not change much like the odometer, the other one could be reset to keep track of service intervals like oil changes and such, but that's just the old farm boy in me.
  14. Back in the days of dino only oil GM specifically recommended against the use of 10-40W oil. I believe their reasoning was that the more viscosity modifiers you had to add to oil, the less actual lubricant you have. Additives have no lubricating property on their own, so the addition of more viscosity modifiers, anti-foaming agents, anti-corrosion agents, detergents, et. al. results in a lower percentage of actual lubricant. Synthetic oil by nature resists viscosity break-down, therefore I assume less of a viscosity package is needed. Just supposition on my part but that's why I believe you see a wider range of accepted viscosity ratings for synthetic oil. My brother went to the dark side about 3 years ago and bought a 6.4l Hemi Ram to pull his 35 ft. TT, he's told me that 0-40W synthetic is what's called for it and he has trouble finding it locally and so he buys it on Amazon. 0-40W sounds crazy to me, but what do I know.
  15. I've seen other posts where people have located the factory trailer wiring harness near the spare tire, even sitting on top of the spare.

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