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Armo325

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About Armo325

  • Rank
    Enthusiast

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  • Name
    Alex
  • Location
    West TN
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    2017 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LT Z71

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  1. Conversion to LED Tail lights

    It's a slightly different year from your trucks but this post I did a while back might help: I included links to the stuff I used in that thread - I'm guessing you need a different bulb but they have several different sizes/types available. If you go the route I did, you WILL need to splice the resistors in to make the LEDs work for the turn signals but it's a very simple process. I know some other folks around here have used LEDs with built in resistance for use with incandescent light housings. I suspect they will chime in soon. I'm not very familiar with those. I'm very happy with the set up I have so far and haven't had any issues with the bulbs or resistors so far. Good luck!
  2. Fair point. I was thinking about it in a more theoretical sense. I was mostly curious what the difference in fuel burn would be with four cylinders firing versus eight. I am sure there are some significant engineering challenges that would come with making it work in practice. Interesting observation. Thanks.
  3. Great info, newdude. Thanks. I have wondered about this question before. I'd be curious to know if there is any fuel savings to be had idling in V4. I'm guessing the engineers thought of that and determined the answer was "no" but still an interesting question.
  4. I bought/installed them last October so, unfortunately, I don’t have a ton of time to give you a good long-term review. That said, they have been great so far. Not a single issue. They’ve seen a temperature range from about 0 to 90 degrees since I got them. I’d say they’re maybe a tad brighter than the stock lights. I really like the small “projector” lens on the end of the bulb that puts light straight out. This is anecdotal but I think this feature helps the bulbs perform better in a housing designed for incandescent bulbs.
  5. I did this mod to my 2017 with Klearz lenses. I put a thread here: While I was at it, I replaced the turn signal bulbs (they're white) with amber LEDs and put resistors in to eliminate hyperflash. Klearz has bulbs and resistors you can order (and I did) but I did not like the bulbs they sent. They weren't very bright and one bulb from the first set didn't even work. Instead, I used the Klearz resistors and bought these bulbs from Amazon. I am very happy with them so far. Of note, the marker lights are a amber LED already so they will still be amber even with a clear lens.
  6. 2002 Chevy throwing codes P0171 & P0174

    As several folks have mentioned, there are a number of possibilities that could be the culprit. That said, I had the EXACT same problem on my 2005 Tahoe with the 4.8. I cleaned everything but that didn't do it. I didn't do a great job with the troubleshooting and started swapping the hard-to-get-to parts parts first. I figured since I had cleaned the MAF sensor and checked for leaks, it must have been deeper in the motor. I changed the intake gasket and knock sensors (only because they're easy to get to with the intake manifold removed) but still had the problem. In the end, the problem was the Mass Air Flow Sensor. I bought a new one from Amazon (reminder: I had the 4.8L motor. The 5.3 might have a different part) and the problem was fixed. It turns out cleaning the MAF sensor wasn't enough. There was a problem internal to the sensor that was causing the codes. A new one did the trick. Good luck and keep us posted.
  7. I'm guessing it's a typo but is that supposed to say you replaced the intake gasket? This is a bit of a guess only using the information provided so far but the vacuum system will have different pressures when under load as opposed to sitting in park, even at the same RPM. I'm guessing a vacuum leak or other air leak somewhere.
  8. davester nailed it. I have nothing to add except to say I did NOT use any RTV on mine. Short of driving in to a lake (something I have managed to avoid thus far), I was confident the valley would not be exposed to water so I chose to skip the sealant.
  9. Not that you want to spend extra money for no reason on the truck but, if you're going to replace the intake gasket, you may want to consider replacing the knock sensors while you're in there. It's easy to do with the intake manifold removed. Here is the valley with the new sensors and sensor wire installed when I did mine. Of note, the new intake gaskets are not yet installed in this photo. I went to Amazon (again) for the parts - two knock sensors and the knock sensor wire. There is some debate on this site (among others) about that. I know the owner's manual says the computer takes in to consideration "driving habits" to determine when it's time to change the oil but I have no idea what that actually means. I don't have access to a GM software engineer that could explain what data feeds the engine oil life display. I can safely say the computer has no idea what type of oil is in the motor but it likely assumes some base-quality motor oil. Not a great answer. Sorry.
  10. I drove a 2005 Tahoe for 10 years with the same motor (I also added a Flowmaster 40 - it sounds awesome on that motor) you have. I didn't have the rough idle but I had all kind of codes for lean fuel condition. As txab already mentioned, the intake gasket is a VERY common culprit. In fact, I took the top of the motor apart and discovered that I had the newer, improved gasket and that was NOT the problem. For me it was the mass airflow sensor. I know you said you cleaned it - I cleaned mine, too, but the problem didn't go away until I replaced it. It's a pretty cheap part (I bought mine here from Amazon - it's currently $79.50) and an easy swap. I don't know what the issue was but it was internal to the MAF sensor. Just another possibility to consider. Good luck and keep us posted.
  11. I completely agree with the sentiment of this thread and I'll admit I was guilty of this for a couple months after getting my truck lifted. One thing that surprised me when I was adjusting my headlights was how hard it was to find a level surface (that I could drive on) next to a wall. My driveway is not level and most parking lots have some amount of gradient for drainage. That said, once you find a place to make the adjustments, the process is painfully simple. There's no excuse not to do it. Even a completely stock truck won't stay perfectly aligned indefinitely.
  12. I had had a few folks ask what I used for this swap, so here are a couple Amazon links: Bulbs Resistors As you can see, you can get everything you need for $41.97 before tax and shipping. Not too bad if you're looking for an inexpensive mod. Also, it has only been a couple months now but everything is holding up great and I'm still very happy with the look.
  13. Not to point out the obvious but that link includes a refurbished amp, not new. That would likely explain the price. I have no issue with buying things used but electronic gear, in my mind, only lives so long so I typically buy new when it comes to speaker, amps, etc.
  14. I had the exact same issue on my 2005 Tahoe a couple years ago. As you already mentioned, the switch was the culprit. Fortunately, they aren't too expensive and very easy to replace. I didn't replace it for quite a while after the problem started only because it happened so infrequently and didn't affect my daily driving. If it happens again, take a look at the switch. When it happened to me, all of the lights were off on the switch when the "2WD" light should have been illuminated. For me, that was the biggest hint the the issue was in the switch and not elsewhere in the truck.
  15. I was going to say something similar. I'd be curious to see the (unbroken) passenger side to see how the control arm angles look. I'm no expert but the photos you posted look like a pretty healthy stretch. Did you get any photos with the UCA in the shot?
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