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ScottyBoy

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About ScottyBoy

  • Rank
    ScottyBoy
  • Birthday 11/03/1977

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Profile Information

  • Name
    Scott
  • Location
    Shreveport,LA (Formerly New Orleans)
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    2001 Suburban
  1. Check the upper control arm bushings on the driver's side. I this SAME issue on my G-BODY Cutlass, and they have almost identical front suspension as the S-10 trucks and Blazers. I had a clunk sound on HARD stops, and then I could feel a light clunk when I let off the brake.
  2. Impact - Air or Cordless

    I have two DeWalt impacts, a beast of a 1/2" drive and a 3/8" drive impact. Both use the old school 18v niCad batteries though. I have had the 18v DeWalt drill, 1/4" drive hex impact, and the 3/8" impact for a few years. I got a good deal on the 1/2" drive impact just over a year or so ago, probably since it's getting to be phased out by the 20v lithium battery operated tools now. Regardless, I'm happy with them. I haven't had anything under the hood that I have not been able to break loose with my 3/8" impact, and I use the 1/2" for lugnuts and suspension work. I used it on the frame crossmember under the engine when I changed my oil pan gasket earlier this year.
  3. How-To: 2005 Silverado Heater Core Replacement.

    Great write up. I think I will probably have to do this soon on my brother's 2001 Tahoe next time I go down to his house. His heater core started leaking and he ended up having someone just bypass it for him. It would probably be a good idea to replace the evaporator too if that has to come out, since he needs a new AC compressor too. I was planning on helping him with that as well.
  4. I do actually offer this service as well. There have been quite a few members on several different truck forums that have sent me their switches and panels to have me install blue LEDs in them because they either didn't have good soldering skills or else they were just too hesitant to tackle the project themselves. I charge $50 to do an AC control panel. Most other switches are in the $20 to $35 range depending on which switch it is. Parts and labor is included, but shipping is extra. Just send me a PM and we can discuss.
  5. When I was shopping for a new truck, my daughter was 3 months old and in a rear facing car seat. (This was in January 2006). I actually had my wife and the baby with me at the dealership looking at trucks. The only way to fit a rear facing seat in the back was to put the front seat a good bit forward. I'm 6ft tall and I always have my seat all the way back, so that was a no go. The salesman kept trying to "fit" me into a ExCab, but there just wasn't enough room for me AND the baby seat. I checked some crew cabs and they had much more room. But they did not have any CC trucks in my price range, not even used ones. I was looking to spend no more than 20k cash out the door, and they could not get me into a crewcab for that price. Then I test drove the Suburban, and it was more than enough room, but it didn't have a bed. I compromised and bought the Suburban and I've been happy with it ever since. The ONLY time I regret getting an SUV instead of an actual truck is when I'm hauling something muddy, dirty, or smelly. Killing a deer for instance...... I have to lay tarps all in the back to make sure I don't get blood in the carpet. I do clean the deer and put the meat in a nice chest, but being way out in the woods, you can't even keep th outside of the ice chest clean. Other than that, I love my Suburban and have driven the piss out of it for over 8 years now.
  6. About a year or so ago, I replaced my alternator pulley with a smaller one to gain a little more amperage at idle (since I had converted my truck to E-fans). This ended up putting some more slack in the serpentine belt. So much slack that on cold mornings I would sometimes hear the belt squealing until the engine warmed up a bit. I would also hear my belt squeal or chirp a bit on very fast acceleration, mainly when the transmission shifted gears at high RPMs. Fast forward to now.... I just changed my belts and all belt tensioners and the idler puller. I decided to go with the shorter belt that would come on a truck with a 105a alternator. It's 3/4 inch shorter. The shorter belt fits, but the belt tensioner is stretched over basically almost as far as it will stretch. Is this a bad thing? Or will I be ok running it like this? My neighbor claims I will destroy my belt tensioner. I honestly have no idea if this will hurt anything. I figured it would be better with the belt tighter?
  7. My truck was doing the same thing. I was adding about a quart of coolant every 3-4 months. It took me well over a year to realize it was the water pump. It was slowly dripping from the weep hole, and only while the engine was running. I finally saw it one day after closely inspecting it with a bright LED flashlight immediately after a 15-20 minte drive. I saw just a tiny amount of water dripping from the weep hole on the bottom of the water pump. I replaced the water pump and it's been fine ever since.
  8. Knock Sensor Low Voltage

    Because I give a good review of a product that I used, then it's an "AD"???Just trying to help other users out who May have the same problem as I did. I'm just glad that it world of me and I actually wasn't even expecting that. I use PI anyway and the code going away was just a nice unexpected bonus I guess.
  9. Knock Sensor Low Voltage

    I was getting a knock sensor code on my Suburban a few months ago. Every time I reset it, the code would pop up a day or two later. But then something funny happened. At every oil change, I add a bottle of Amsoil "PI" Performance Improver to my gas tank. It helps a lot with cleaning the fuel system and actually helps my truck run better. After adding that to my gas tank, and resetting the CEL, the knock sensor code has not come back. It's been well over a month and a half now of daily driving, and still no CEL codes. I was actually VERY surprised that the Amsoil fuel additive could do that. I wasn't even expecting it, I was getting ready to order new knock sensors from Rockauto but I was very pleasantly surprised that the code never came back after adding a bottle of PI to my tank. I would highly recommend trying it if you are having trouble with your knock sensors.
  10. Has the truck ever been in an accident? There are several ground points near the bumper brackets and some along the frame under the driver door area that have been known to cause LOTS of problems if they become loose, damaged, or corroded. There are several on the engine and firewall too that can cause problems with interior electronics.
  11. I'm guessing that the headlights only suck on the lower end models that do not have the Projector headlights?
  12. If you can solder it not a difficult repair. I've done literally dozens of these clusters for countless members of this forum and many other forums. Here is a "How-To" on replacing the stepper motors. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/128743-stepper-motor-replacement-for-the-gauge-cluster/
  13. How-To: 03+ GMT800 LED Cluster Conversion.

    This same write up applies if just replacing the bulbs with more incandescent light bulbs.
  14. How-To: LED Power Window Switch Mod 99-02 GMT800.

    I use 470 ohm resistors on a 20ma 5mm LED. Flat top LEDs seem to disperse the light better.
  15. Like mentioned above, you will need the 03-06 frame horns. You will have to cut yours off and replace them. You have two options, cut some off of a 03-06 in the junkyard and weld them on your truck, or buy some from LMC Truck or eBay that are made to be bolted on. I've seen this on other forums. Drill a few holes after you cut your original frame horns off and the new frame horns just bolt right on. Then you bolt up your bumper and you are good to go. The 03 grill is a direct swap, so no modifications needed there.
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