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hirdlej

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About hirdlej

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  1. I suspect it's coming from the high pressure pump. Have you tried starting it and putting a hose near the back of the intake manifold while putting the other in your ear to try isolating it? Again, mine went away after putting a few more thousand miles on it.
  2. Does it go away with any positive or negative throttle? Just noise at steady cruise? If so it's probably your rear differential. I went through 4 of them in my '15 before they finally got it right.
  3. Mine has/had the same noise. I bought my truck over 1500 miles away from home. The first time I noticed it (and maybe it was there since new) was when I first remote started my truck after getting it home. The noise is too slow to be a lifter. It's about a quarter the rotating speed of the crankshaft (look and listen close). A lifter would be half the speed. With that being said I think it's coming from the DI pump on the back of the intake manifold. Mine hasn't gotten any worse or louder. In fact, now that I'm up to 4200 miles it seems to have almost gone away entirely unless I'm really listening for it. I think the DI pump needs to break-in or something is wearing in as it should. If it's anything else, please post up. I'm curious to see what they find. I don't think it's something to be concerned about though.
  4. Jeff, what year is your Yukon? In the research I've done, the problem I had seems to be more prevalent in the 2017 vehicle lineup and especially in the "high option" trim level vehicles. It needs every bit of available network traffic at startup and the range takes up too much space. The Corvette guys really have problems with these. I'm just going to have to ziptie my range up under the dash with a switch like you have shown and only turn it on when I want it on highway trips. Now I'll need to put a note on the dash somewhere to turn it off before shutting the truck off. It's silly the stuff we have to go through to make these things run the way we want. Start up, disable grade braking, flip a switch to turn off AFM, turn off afm disabler before shutting off, etc.
  5. Jeff, here's a detailed experience of what I encountered. I bought my truck brand new about a month and a half ago out of state. I had a 1500 mile drive to get home. Right off the dealer lot I wanted to break the engine in properly so I installed my Range AFM disabler. It worked great without issues for the first 600-700 miles home on my trip. Now keep in mind I left it plugged in the entire trip and never pulled it out to reset. (I have no idea what version it was prior to sending it in). After leaving the restaurant one night on our trip, I went to start the truck and it was completely dead like it had a dead battery. I pulled the Range AFM out and the truck fired right up no problem and all was well except on the display it said "steering assist reduced, drive with care". I inserted the range back in and it continued to work by keeping the truck in V8 mode. However, throughout the rest of the drive home, each time I started the truck, I would get that error message. It drove me nuts since I had to clear the message each time I wanted to see anything. I put a total of 3000 miles on the truck in the last month and the message just wouldn't go away whether I used the range afm or not. I sent my module into Range for the update, got it back and at least 5 times I tried plugging it in "hot" and the message came back each time I'd go to start the truck. With that being said, I succumbed to going into the dealership this week and they had to clear the message. Since they cleared it, the message hasn't come back nor have I used the Range AFM disabler. If it doesn't come back in the next 1k miles, I'm going to say the AFM disabler caused the problem. I may just get myself an OBDII cable with a power switch on it and when I want to use 6th gear for highway, turn it on. Otherwise I'm going to use M5 for speeds 60 and under.
  6. I had my range upgraded to 8.1 recently. When I got it back, I tried plugging it in "hot" as they call it, but it never cleared the message. It was a REAL HARD code set. I couldn't clear it with my HP Tuners or with the Range. Incase it's a legitimate issue, I don't want to try using my AFM disabler for another 1k miles to see if the message comes back. I think I'm going to wire the module into the OBD port via a switch so when I want to use it for the long trips, I just click it on when the truck is already running and then click it off before I shut the truck off. It was a lot of rigarmaro at the dealership to get them to clear the PCM last time. :/
  7. Personally for me I like the V4 at speeds 60 and under. When you start doing 70+, it's annoying as hell constantly kicking in and out. You don't notice it so much in the way the engine runs, but the torque converter is constantly searching like it doesn't know where it should lock-up. By the time in locks-up, it's unlocking and moving again. That'd be about my only real complaint. I loved my Range AFM disabler, however I can't run it right now as I'm doing testing to see if it was the cause of my reduced power steering assist error messages.
  8. Your old one probably had the Z85 suspension. Now I'm willing to bet your new one is either Z71 or Z60. Both ride harsher than the Z85.
  9. FYI I brought my 2017 Sierra into the shop today to have an issue looked at with getting "steering assist reduced" at startup. Long story short, I talked to the tech who worked on my truck about the noise you were showing. He said the majority of the trucks do that and it's related to the DI pump on top of the engine. He said nothing is getting hurt or will fail related to that click. Anywho, I'll keep my ears open on mine. For some reason it didn't hardly make that noise today but the last few days prior it made that noise clear as could be. I wonder if it has something to do with oil getting to the DI pump or if the DI pump has a lifter on it that needs priming of sorts. I'm going to look into how one works since I have zero idea.
  10. Brian, did you ever get this addressed or find out what it was? Or is this considered "normal operation"? I have a new 2017 with 3k miles on it doing the same thing. I sure dread going into the dealership to have my stuff looked at since it always comes back with a new scratch or ding. If it's normal I'll just let it be. Mine goes away after 10 minutes of driving and is fully warmed up.
  11. My truck with stock 17's was a dream compared to after I put the 20's on. I run 30psi of air in my tires with the 20" wheels. I'm keeping my 20's on for now though since the 17's were the cause of my violent shaking issues. At some point I'll be upgrading to Michelin LTX's on those and running those in the winter.
  12. Welcome, where in MN are you? I live in Maple Grove. How are you shutting off the radio? 2 things. Your dash dimmer should correlate to the screen. I turn mine down for night driving as well. The only way I've seen to turn the radio off is to hold in the volume button. If the time bothers you, I've seen guys take a cloth piece and tape it or Velcro it to the dash. Then let it hang down to drown out the screen. Flip it up and Velcro when you want to use it. Kind of ghetto but that's about all you have for choices.
  13. I'm excited to hear your feedback. I'm definitely subscribed to this thread.
  14. So technically they're almost 75% brighter than stock????? Wow, let us know your driving impressions at night.
  15. It's 2017, so yes, we want the night time to turn into daylight from the cutoff line and lower. If a sports car can have lights that work, why can't a truck? The nicest headlights I've ever been graced to be behind were in a 2005 Corvette. It's 12 years later and I think it's time the trucks should be able to have equivalent lighting.
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