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arzinet

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About arzinet

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    Enthusiast

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  • Location
    AB, Canada
  • Gender
  • Drives
    2011 Yukon XL 2500
  1. Interesting conversation. I had a 2007 Suburban with the 5.3 that I bought new and was planning to drive forever. Filled it with synthetic from the first oil change (usually Pennzoil Platinum, but sometimes Mobil 1). I know they're not "real" synthetic, but close enough I figured. Followed the OCI as per the display, which resulted in oil changes every 8,000 to 13,000 km (5,000 - 8,000 miles.) I towed with it, in the mountains a lot, but tried not to abuse it. Changed all the other fluids regularly, never saw the coolant temp. gauge come up above normal, and only saw the tranny temps get a bit over 100 Celcius (212 Fahrenheit) on the longest climbs. I think 110 (230 F) was the highest I ever saw. Anyway, had the lifters fail at 70,000 km (43,000 miles), thankfully just after we got home from a long trip towing through the mountains. I'd heard of the issue beforehand, so it wasn't a total shock to me. The dealer was great, and everything fixed under warranty, so I wasn't too unhappy. The truck was fine for another few years and 50,000 km, then it got totalled in an accident. Replaced it with a 2011 Yukon XL 2500, and am kind of glad to have the old-school 6.0 now. Plan on keeping this one forever, as well. Still using synthetic, and still changing it according to the computer, but I'm starting to think maybe it wouldn't hurt to not go past 10,000 km between changes, regardless of what the computer says. Suppose I could get an oil analysis done, but I haven't yet. My other car is a VW, and it has its share of known issues as well. Worst one is a cam chain tensioner that is known to go bad, resulting in major engine damage (interference engine.) If you believe the internet, it will happen to every engine sooner or later, but of course there are no hard and fast numbers.
  2. Black Bear got back to me really quickly, but it sounds like they can't do it. This is what they told me: "Manual" mode is not really manual within the trucks. It is more of a Maximum mode and utilizes the same shift tables as the normal mode with the limitation of not going any higher than the listed gear. While we can certainly adjust up and downshift points by vehicle speed/TPS, there will likely not be able to be a difference between the normal and M mode." I suppose playing with the shift points might help a bit, but not sure it's worth the $600 to experiment.
  3. Thanks. I'd looked at Black Bear's site before, but it was a little confusing (I'm used to off-the-shelf Stage 1, 2, etc. car stuff.) I see now that it's custom tunes, so I sent them an email to ask about it. Looks like I'd have to spend at least the $600 for the AutoCal. Kind of pricey for what I want, but maybe worth it for other the benefits as well.
  4. I've got a 2011 Yukon XL 2500 with the 6.0 and 6L90E. I tow a 24' travel trailer, using tow/haul mode and the manual shifter, but the transmission kickdown has always driven me crazy. I just want to select a gear and have the transmission stay in that gear, not downshift for me if I push past 80% throttle. Every other vehicle I've owned has been a manual, and if I put the transmission in 4th it's because I want it in 4th. If I put my foot to the floor, I still want to be in 4th - I don't want the transmission choosing 3rd for me! Is it possible to tune the transmission so it will hold gears for me, no matter what I do with the gas pedal? Did some searching, but can't seem to find anything. Surely I'm not the only one who hates this?
  5. Why Doesn't The A/c Work In The Winter?

    Yeah, my Civic owner's manual says the same thing. And my A/C light always comes on in the defrost setting, too, even though the A/C compressor isn't actually kicking in.
  6. Why Doesn't The A/c Work In The Winter?

    Thanks for the lesson - it's a good start. No, the A/C compressor simply doesn't engage when the temperature is below 39F (4C). If you push the A/C button, the light flashes three times to tell you that A/C is unavailable, then goes out - just like it says in the owner's manual. As soon as the outside temperature is above 4C, then the A/C works as normal. The A/C in my 1999 Civic doesn't work in the cold, either. Even though the A/C light comes on when you push the button, the compressor simply does not engage below a certain temperature (somewhere around freezing). I know, because with such a small engine it's painfully obvious when the A/C compressor kicks in. Just throwing this out there, but are you sure your A/C works in the winter? Have you actually felt or heard the A/C compressor kick in when it's cold?
  7. True to what it says in the owner's manual of our 2007 Suburban, the air conditioning will not work in temperatures below 39 degrees. Unfortunately, it doesn't say why. This actually didn't come as a surprise to me, as I thought that all modern cars with R134a refrigerant were like this (something about the new systems being incompatible with colder temperatures). But, I can't find any evidence of this anywhere, and everyone I ask seems to think their A/C works just fine when it's below freezing. Is this just a GM thing, or is it true for most makes? And if so, why does nobody seem to know about it? Are there certain types of A/C systems that work fine in the cold? I'd love to get some answers from an A/C tech. And in case anybody's wondering, there are some good reasons why someone would want to run the A/C when it's cold outside. First, using the A/C regularly keeps the compressor lubricated, and second, it's really handy to defog the windows when you've got six sweaty skiers in the truck on a cold, humid day.
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