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2017HD

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About 2017HD

  • Rank
    2017HD
  • Birthday 06/15/1956

Profile Information

  • Name
    Randy
  • Location
    Hillsboro, Oregon
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    17 2500 Double Cab DMax LTZ Silver Ice Metallic

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  1. OutdoorsRV travel trailers

    Honestly the 4season moniker is more advertising than reality - however I believe that the overall designs are better than most. Heated tanks, high density foam insulation, double pane windows and perhaps the most important aspect - slides one spot where ORV seems to be ahead of the game - the slide side walls are the same as the main walls - and they seal the bottom with fiberglass. ORV also went totally away from wood framing (Nash's are still wood framed). By having the same construction in all of its products ORV saves $$ because they can order material in larger quantities. As for the limited dealer network - it was done on purpose to allow one plant to supply the demands for the product. Prior to forming ORV, Ron Nash tried a second plant in VA to serve the east coast market. Being so far from the mother plant they found themselves doing things differently than La Grande did - they could not make their own frames so they had to purchase from Lippart. They also created some different models and marketed them differently. Ron decided that this was not going to work and shut it down in 2007 - in late 2009 ORV was started. I have visited both factories - at Northwood the tours are given at specific times - lunch and after hours so you don't see the workers. At ORV I showed up to get some brochures and ended up with a private tour right there on the spot - I got to see a unit fresh off the line as well as a frame for the next production build as well as all the steps used to build these rigs - that day they were building their Creekside line. Also ORV was not something you discussed with the tour guide at Northwood - however at ORV the Northwood connection was openly and pleasantly discussed - including why they felt they are not really competing with them as they have different plans and are targeting a different audience. For me, I actually felt I had three potential mfgs in mind - Northwood, ORV, and Keystone (Cougar only). Northwood seemed to be having more issues with quality control issues - lots of bad press on both IRV2 and the usually supportive NROA web board. I found much better press on ORV. We also looked at floorplans and the AF line did not have what we were looking for - ORV did - and even though the first plans that looked good on paper did not work for us in reality so we kept looking - DW found the TR 25RDS and that was that - glad I had that great truck on order!
  2. OutdoorsRV travel trailers

    I have a new 2017 ORV Timber Ridge 25RDS. Got it last May - have taken it out several times - including our week long jaunt to eastern Oregon for the Pendleton Round-Up. We have done everything from dry camping to full hook-ups and everything has worked as advertised. Prior to this we had a 2005 Arctic Fox 22H and it was well built - however I think that ORV is even better. ORV also has more floorplan options than Arctic Fox. As usual we started looking at the smaller Creekside units in the 26' range with no slide - ended up with the larger TR with a full slide. We plan on either full or near full timing in a few years so we bought bigger than we need now but what will work for the future. Perhaps the other TTs I would consider would be a Keystone Cougar - built in Pendleton. The only drawback to ORV is that their dealer network does not extend much further west than WY and CO - however I have heard of people coming over 3000mi to get an ORV unit from a dealer in WA or OR - and also doing a factory tour at the same time.
  3. Well I just got a notice that my 2017 DMax has been recalled for an emissions issue - they say they want to reprogram the ECM - anybody else get this notice - anybody done it?
  4. Heated Power Trailer Mirrors

    Actually there are several threads on this topic both in this section as well as the truck sections.
  5. Agree the 2500 with 4.10 should out perform the 5.3 with 3.42 gears - I believe that the transmissions are the same gearing so the differences are in the torque/HP and rear end. My old 07 2500HD towed 6000 lb TT with ease. Hills were done in 4th gear at 3500 RPMs and for the most part flats shifted between 5th and 6th - it did not seem to take much to drop between those two. I never tried to tow the same trailer with a 1500 and 5.3. Now my boss tows a large boat with a burb with the same set up as your 1500. It seems to strain more than my 2500 ever did. Probably your 2500 need a tune - maybe a new fuel filter or air filter - you might also try some injector cleaner. Also has your MPG gone down?
  6. I have noticed a bit more freewheeling after the engine is fully warm - as far as the 38 shift point I sometimes get up to the point where it shifts up then throttle back and it stays in the higher gear. I hate trying to do 25 as it seems to want to stay in 2 or 3 and will not freewheel. After 8 mos I am still getting used to this amazing truck - I do know that it really likes to stretch its legs on the hy.
  7. Trailer lights

    U-Haul often uses what are called suitcase connectors to clamp onto your truck's wires - unless they are crimped correctly they are prone to not make good contact. They may have also tapped into the wrong wires on your truck.
  8. Towing a travel trailer

    You need to watch several things at once when towing a trailer starting with CGWR - the combination gross weight rating - this is the maximum your truck and trailer can weigh. Next is the GVWR - gross vehicle weight rating - this is the most your truck or trailer can weigh. GAWR - gross axle weight rating - the most your axles will support. These are listed in the order of importance and none of them can be exceeded. Ignore the "tow rating" instead I start with the CGWR as being the GVWR of the truck and trailer added together. As long as the sum of the two GVWRs is around the CGWR the combination is worth running the rest of the numbers to insure that the rig will not be overloaded. Another way to look at this is to look at your actual reserve payload (after you have deducted passengers and cargo) and using that as your max tongue wt. Now subtract at least 100 lbs (for batteries and LPG usually not included in the dry tongue wt) and look for a trailer with a tongue wt of that or less. Finally there is the rule of thumb that simply de-rates the either the tow rating or CGWR by a percentage - usually 2025% off the rating (or 75-80% of the weight rating). Just remember you are dealing with two sets of sales and marketing people that love to make up numbers. The trailer folks want to make their units lighter and truck mfgs want to make you think they can tow a mountain.
  9. I have also been looking at Bully Bars for the HD trucks - problem is that most all of them cover the sensors for the front park assist. GM wants around 600.00 - aftermarket ones are between 200 and 400.00 - they too cover the sensors.
  10. Sweet ride - I am also on my first diesel and so far am loving it - tows my 31' TT with ease.
  11. Looks great - would cover up that exposed cooler. what is the cost?
  12. Yeah, mine went off in about 20min - I wish there was a way to shut them off with the remote - like tie them to the lock button.
  13. I did this to an S-10 back in 83 - by the time I was finished with the rear only (it was 2WD) I had just over $500.00 into it. A lot depends on how much you need to change - I did not have to change anything other than the ring and pinion gears plus all the seals and bearings in the rear end. My dealer also misrepresented the towing capacity of my truck - he quoted me the 3.73 rear gear towing - not the 3.08 - this was my learning lesson on tow ratings. Back then I also had to change the speedometer drive gear in the transmission. Today you would need to have the control module re-flashed. I would also shop around- I got the best deal at a GMC dealer for both parts and labor.
  14. The fulcrum theory is a good one - so I went and looked up the axle to bumper distance - for the 6'6" bed it is 43" for the 8' bed it is 48" so that blows that theory out of the water as the longer distance applies more force to the axle. The hitch PN being different would make more since. Or it is just another number they pulled out of the air.
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