My original directions posted above were: I added a 3amp, 400PIV diode to the harness between white(85) and black(86) pigtail wires just behind the black socket to give the diode protection to this relay assembly (Diode stripe-end connector should be attach to the white #85. connector). To add the diode to the harness, I used a small jewellers flat blade screw driver to pop out the white and black female spade connectors from the black 5-pin relay connector. I bent the diode leeds so that it matched the spread distance of the white and black connectors when they were in the 5-pin connector. I cut the diode connector leeds down a little. so the diode would just stand ~ 3/16 off the back side of the 5-pin connector where the wires exit the connector. I then soldered the diode leads to the brass wire crimp ends of the white and black female spade connectors on the inside edge. The orientation of the diode is important, so follow the directions in the previous paragraph. Then insert the white and black female connectors back into the 5-pin connector exactly as they came out, so that the white wire connects to the #85 connector on the diode.
First off I want to thank the OP (Diesail) for the great write up on this topic. I basically followed his directions, but added diode protection to the relay harness just to be on the safe side. I now have switched 12V power for my on-board air compressor for my Air-Lift helper spring system. Thanks Diesail. cujo8
I ordered and received my 12VDC automotive 5-pin relay SPDT 30/40A (p/n-330-079) and relay harness (p/n-330-075) from Parts Express and this relay/harness doesn't have diode protection. Just to be safe, I added a 3amp, 400PIV diode to the harness between white(85) and black(86) pigtail wires just behind the black socket to give the diode protection to this relay assembly (Diode stripe-end connector should be attach to the white #85. connector). The diode can be purchased for less than $2 from Radio Shack.
I read the tech bulletin you linked to and it say's: "This bulletin documents the recommended practice of installing of a diode to Aftermarket Solenoids/Relays to Suppress Voltage Spikes (this is in the event Non-Automotive Grade relay or solenoid has been used). This diode installation eliminates potential excessive voltage spike." so it looks like you only need to add the diode if you use a non-automotive grade relay. Is the Bosch 12VDC 5-pin relay SPDT 30/40A p/n-330-079 listed in OP an automotive grade relay? I'm thinking that it is an automotive grade relay and the diode addition would not be needed in this case, correct? Thanks.
cujo8 replied to cujo8's topic in 1999-2006 & 2007-2013 Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra 1500Thanks for the reply AaronIROCZ! A bit more complicated than I was expecting to say the least. I've been wiring all kinds of accessories into my vehicles for more than 30 years and I've never had to do something this complex just to pick up a switched 12V source. Has anyone done this before have the p/n's and approximate cost of these parts? Thanks. Jim
cujo8 posted a topic in 1999-2006 & 2007-2013 Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra 1500I just installed Air-Lift helper spring setup that includes a onboard compressor on my 2011 GMC Sierra. The instructions say to use a switched 12V 15amp or better circuit, that is only energized when the ignition is on. The power wire is located inside the cab, so I was trying to tap into one of the circuits located in the cab fuse box located on the side of the dash near the DS door. The problem is every 12V /15A+ circuit I checked seems to be hot all the time, so my question is where's the best point to pick up a switched 12V/15A+ power source inside the cab? Thanks for any help. Jim
cujo8 replied to ndogg ct's topic in 1999-2006 & 2007-2013 Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra 1500I just had my battery (10 month old) replaced last month on my 2011 GMC Sierra at the dealer at no charge. The battery was almost completely dead after sitting in my driveway for ~5 days w/o driving. I was just barely able to get it start and I drove the truck around on several errands leaving running the whole time and I then drove it to Autozone to have them check the battery. AZ said the battery and charging system was working fine, but this did not give me a warm fuzzy feeling, since if everything was working then why did the battery go dead? I took it to the dealer and they determined the battery had a bad cell(s) and replaced it under warranty. The take home message here is that you can't always trust the $100 battery testers these Auto Parts Stores use.
I found the Post I spoke about in my previous reply: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=127112&st=0&p=1130561&hl=+windshield%20+moisture&fromsearch=1&&do=findComment&comment=1130561
The other night I was sitting in my truck waiting for my wife to get out of work and I had been waiting at least a 1/2-hour with the truck off and windows up in 35F outside temperature. When I went to start up the truck with the climate controls set on Windshield Defrost the inside windshield surface immediately became noticably moist when the engine started. This leads me to believe that moisture had accumulated in the defroster vents/heater area and when I started the truck the moisture condensed on the cold windhield as it left the defroster. I believe I read a post on this forum quite some time ago talking about this defroster issue, but I can't recall the exact details at this time. Maybe someone else recalls this post?
another problem that will start to occur with all that trapped moisture is mold and mildew and you do not want that to happen. A cheap way to protect your vehicle from these moisture issues when it driven infrequently or in storage, is to place an opened bag of kitty liter inside the vehicle to absrb the moisture. Another product you can use that does the same thing is called DampRid. Hope this helps.
How much is this part? Gmpartsdirect.com has it for like 5$ i think, but you know how they are with shipping. Should be around 5-10$ from any of the parts sites Thanks Dave. Jim
cujo8 replied to spikesputnik's topic in 1999-2006 & 2007-2013 Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra 1500These smells can happen when ever you park a sealed up vehicle iside or out is there is any dampness trpped inside the car when you park it. I've had collector vehicles for years and anyone that has ever stored vehicles for any length of time experiences this issue. One fix is when you store your truck you can place an opened bag of kitty litter inside the vehicle and the kitty litter will absorb the trapped moisture inside the truck. There is product that you can buy to do the same thing, but is not as bulky as a bag of kiity litter, it is called "Damp-Rid" and it sold at variety of stores. I bought some at Lowes the last time I bought it. Damp-rid uses Calcium Chloride to absorb the moisture and it works very well. The bottom line get rid of the moisture and you will get rid of the smells. Good luck.
From my picture above you can see the stock hoses have been slid inside of the 3/8" rubber hoses and like Dave said it helps to lubricate the hoses with some spit or other bodily fuid to help with the process and then secure it with a clamp.
How much is this part?
I did the unlit propane technique when I was trying to track down the leak all around the can and at both hose connection points and I did not notice any change in engine idle anywhere, but there definitely was a leak at the PCV connection point as I pointed out earlier in a previous post. Did you use a clamp on the hose going to the PCV connection? I didn't and that was my mistake. When I first installed the hose the connection was tight and when I started the engine to check for leaks everything seemed tight and there was no hissing sound, but after the engine warmed up the rubber hose on the PCV connection expanded and began leaking. I would suggest you give that hose connection a tug to make sure it is tight if you haven't already. The more I think about it, I think this leak is why I had so much water in my catch can. It had been raining very often over the last two weeks and the vacuum leak at the PCV connection was sucking in all that moist air and it was condensing out the water in the cool oil catch can. From the looks of it I believe 20-30% of the liquid was water in what I drained out of the can. Now that the leak has been fixed, it will be interesting to see what I find after the next two weeks.
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