Not surprised. They did the same thing to me 10 years ago with my truck and it's laundry list of problems. Kicked the can down the road until it was out of warranty, and I was stuck repairing their subpar parts out of my own pocket. Par for the 21st Century course.
My truck stayed parked this time - had the lumber delivered. New shop is finally coming together! Floor pour, and 10k lb. lift install is next. Been dreaming of this day for almost 3 decades. Inside foundation dimensions are 29'x25' - building is 30' deep x 26' wide. Should have a 13' ceiling height after the floor is poured. 6" of 4k psi concrete, fiberglass reinforcement, plus metal mesh. Should last the rest of my life. Just need to fix a communication screwup on the garage door there - it's supposed to be 12' wide. The concrete in the pic here is 10'6" wide for a 10' door. Going to have to cut a foot off each side.
Hopefully you're still under the 36k mile warranty - if so, let GM fix THEIR problem. You shouldn't have to troubleshoot or pay to repair a brand new vehicle. Make sure you tell them that the starter is NOT disengaging when the engine starts - tell them several times if you have to.
Everyone is dealing with this problem. Every single shop out there deals with this on a daily basis. I suspect this is the manufacturer's way to force people into new vehicles. Problem is, they don't understand that not everyone has $40 large laying around for a vehicle that will be a pile of scrap in just 12 years. Really poor investments ... All that said, I would still test the wiring first before diving into the tank again - it could be a failed cluster motor for the fuel gauge, or a shorted, pinched / open wire.
If I were to guess, I'd say 21st Century manufacturing has struck again. In other words, that "new" assembly is highly suspect - wouldn't be surprised if it has failed already. Before diving in there, I'd be looking for any wiring that may have been compromised during the install. If that all checks out, you'll probably be filing a warranty claim on that assembly, based on the last 5 years or so (even if the assembly is an OE replacement) .
The 1st code is more than likely the cause of the rest of the codes. Without the 5v reference, few sensors will work - that's the lifeblood of a sensor. What the sensor does with the 5 volts corresponds directly to the conditions it's reading (whether it's a TPS, MAF, MAP, etc..), and that info is deciphered by the ECU. There might be a shorted sensor that pulled down the entire 5v ref, or, the wiring for the 5v ref from the ECU is shorted, or open, or the ECU itself is bad.
HAHAHA! Oh, I've been there MANY times! Glad you figured it out. Last time I bought anything electrical from eBay was a pair of e-code headlight housings for our '93 Volvo 940 - looked like a 4 year old glued them together. Glue was EVERYWHERE. Were also wired completely backwards - not just hi/low, but the fog / driving light feature was also backwards! Installed them, and couldn't get light more than 10' in front of the car with the adjustment maxed out! Was so mad - had to argue and fight with the seller too. Finally just opened a case, and got my money back - unfortunately I couldn't leave negative feedback since I opened a case. Was too bad - they were great looking lights. Ended up buying OE for double the money. OUCH is all I can say there ... Before that, I bought a complete HEI distributor for my '00 Jimmy 4.3 V6 that I swapped to my '89 S10 Blazer, minus it's electronics. Complete HEI distributor for $60 shipped, lol. Well, the first one I got 8k miles out of - that was a record. The next lasted just over 3k miles. Really pulled my hair out on that one! Since it was an engine swap AND fuel system re-engineering, I was hyper-focused on the fuel system for 11k miles - was having nothing but trouble! Hard starts, random misfires, bucking at random times, and other days it would run great. Once the thing finally croaked completely (in the rain on a Sunday NIGHT, pitch dark!), I replaced the electronic guts with Eichlin components from NAPA, that truck gained 3 mpg, about 30 HP, and started and ran better than anything in my fleet! Unfortunately, had to part with it, due to succumbing to liquid car dissolver MA dumps on the roadways every winter.
I would try retarding the timing a few degrees at a time - see if you can get it to not ping, yet still make decent power. May have been a fuel change that nobody has mentioned - that has happened here in some states in the past, and caused all kinds of driveability issues for older vehicles. Also could be excessive carbon buildup in the engine for whatever reason, causing an increase in compression.
You would have to use the intake manifold, and entire wiring harness off the '01 ... but no guarantees any of that would play well with the rest of the modules on the '09. If the BCM isn't happy, the truck won't run. If the cluster isn't happy, the truck won't run. These damn vehicles have become FAR too complicated ... Sounds like a royal PITA from here. Probably better off finding an engine from '07 up - would be alot easier as far as the electronic crap is concerned.
Yikes - sounds like some cars I get over here! If they built everything like my '05 Polaris Sportsman 800, I wouldn't mind FI. I haven't had a single hiccup in that system so far. Bought it new Jan.'05, has about 1,300 miles on it, 270 hours or so. All Bosch electronics and sensors - very well built. A fuel pressure test will confirm a leaky injector. Should notice a slow, steady bleed down when the engine is off. Fuel fouled plug is a dead ringer for that - could probably just shotgun an injector at it and be right.
It's amazing how those guys pop dents out. My mom got a small dent in her brand new Subaru Impreza, high on the door, next to the body line, and mirror. Guy worked it out in 10 minutes - you'd never know it was ever there. Only charged her $70 too! Came right to her house and did it in the driveway. Guess that's the one benefit to the beer-can bodies they put on vehicles these days!
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