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About jake111

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    Southern Calif.
  1. Cabin filter

    Hmm, you could look up the year of your truck. It says you drive a "2104" 3500 HD. If that means 2004, then the answer is No, you don't have one . . . unless someone did the DIY mod to add it. I don't know about 2014. It's not really hard to remove the glove box to check.
  2. Dead spot when turning over

    I'm not familiar with 2008, but at least ideas from the previous generations... 1. Often low voltage, triggered by big load when starting. Batteries (even though they still work to start engine) or (sigh) a bad connection or ground somewhere. 2. I swear it's a secret feature planted into all vehicles for the last 20 years. I don't trust any vehicle (any brand) not to lock itself, so I always at least roll the window down if I want to shut the door with the key inside. Call me paranoid but I haven't been locked out since. 3. The blend doors go bad, or they report positions that confuse the computer control, so they go to heat for "safety" (you won't freeze to death). Mine has always done this a few times a year. Usually I can just turn the climate control system off, wait 30 seconds, and turn it on and it will reset. If you cut power to it, then restore power, don't touch climate controls for a few minutes so it can calibrate itself. You might have hoped GM would have fixed this in later years, but... 4. Hmmm, again a bad electrical connection. You might replace the ignition switch (not the tumbler, but the electrical part). The older GMs had problems. I carry a spare.
  3. I would have bet on the stepper motor since those are a common issue . . . but the OP has posted only once over 5 weeks ago, so I don't think we'll ever know.
  4. Assuming the later years are the same as my 2004.5, the A/C goes on when in recirc mode. I should say the the A/C goes on in stealth mode when in recirc, i.e., the A/C snowflake does not go on, but A/C is definitely on. So, if your recirc indicator is going off/on, then the A/C will follow it off/on. Unfortunately, I don't have a clue as to why it would switch in/out of recirc.
  5. My understanding from discussions years ago was that the blend door actuator(s?) (or the computer controlling it/them) gets confused because of, probably, "position out of range". An experienced programmer would have handled this, but I don't think GM used one, so it goes into a "safe" mode . . . full-on heat so you don't freeze to death. Sometimes you can just shut off the climate control, wait maybe 30 seconds, and turn it back on and all is good (mine usually cleared doing this although it hasn't screwed up for a couple of years now). Sometimes you can just shut off the truck, wait maybe 30 seconds, and turn it back on. Sometimes you have to pull the a/c or climate control fuse (there are youtube videos), wait a minute (maybe turn on the key and then turn it off, but not sure this is needed, then turn off the key), then put the fuse back in. In all 3 methods above DON'T touch any climate control buttons for several minutes. In some cases (or maybe only the last one above) the actuators are re-calibrating; changing the controls messes it up. Or, an actuator door has gone bad and needs to be replaced. I haven't done this but understand it might be a difficult job because the actuators are buried.
  6. I'm not completely sure, but I don't think it's plug'n'play. Even if the wires are there I think it still requires programming (BCM?). I have had the power extending camper mirrors on my 2004.5 since new. Here are the things that aren't so great: - They tend to stick, especially when they sit in one position for very long. Then somebody needs to help unstick it to use the extending/retracting feature. If setting and leaving in the same position then this isn't so important. - The passenger side mirror is not convex and creates a HORRIBLE blind spot. I bought a convex stick-on (about 4"x5") to make it usable.
  7. Egr Delete Kits

    Southern California and you want to delete the EGR? I guess if you keep all of the parts so you can re-install it every 2 years for a smog check you might get away with it. We have smog checks, you know... I think you'll have to go to Arizona to get it done by a shop; pretty sure it's illegal for any shop in California to delete the EGR.
  8. Maintenance free; requires no lube additives. Maintenance free??? Really??? Yeah, I have a Toyota with "lifetime" ATF, which appears to mean until the transmission destroys itself. I changed the gear oil in my G80 gov-loc at 18k miles and I wished I had done it sooner. The gear oil glistened with metal. That's normal when a diff breaks in. After the initial break-in, every 50k miles is probably sufficient in most cases (more often if you tow a lot; less often if all you do is drive down the highway). Requires no lube additives??? Actually, the G80 gov-loc has some friction plates that are used to engage the locker and they work much better with the right amount of friction modifier; not too much and not too little. GM's gear lube "grape juice" has the proper additives and "requires no lube additives", which more likely means "don't add more". Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil says "LS" because it has some friction modifiers in it, and it also works very well in the G80.
  9. As someone mentioned above, Mobil 1 synthetic 75-90 is an excellent choice for both the front and rear diffs. It's also what I have used for the last 10 years. However, the front diff vent cover on 2001-2003 might not be fully compatible with synthetic gear oil. Why? I haven't a clue. The so-called incompatible vent covers were black. The compatible ones are white, so you can easily check if you have one. Or you can just try it. Or you can buy a white cover like from here: http://www.merchant-automotive.com/12479390-White-Vent-Cap.aspx(or if links not allowed, Merchant Automotive white vent cap Part #12479390)
  10. Since it worked for a long time, and it's doing what my '04 often does . . . door latch. If you open the door and the radio doesn't shut off, you can try sticking a screw driver in the door latch and vigorously jiggle the latch up/down. At least on mine, it will get whatever contact is in there to work and the radio will go off, usually. Some, including me, have tried shooting WD-40 or a penetrating oil into the latch to try to get to work better. I also tried readjusting the striker bar a little higher (seemed to work at first, then not so much). Actually, mine has started working again (but I'll soon regret saying that, I'm sure).
  11. If the driver's side brake isn't working well (rust problems, not sliding, bad caliper), then it may very well drag because it doesn't "float" back to free-wheeling. And then it may not work very well when you hit the brakes. The passenger side works and so it pulls to the right. At least this is one theory.
  12. Your statement " I can really see it when I'm rolling up a stop and applying the brakes, the wheel goes to the right hard." suggests brakes to me. Do you live in the rust belt? If so, then brakes can easily be a problem in 6 years. Not with the rotors or pads, but with the sliders and/or pads not floating. Since it pulls to the right, it might be that the left front brake isn't working as well as the right side. If you don't live in the rust belt, then it's less likely . . . but still possible. Not living in a corrosive area I haven't touched the brakes in my 13 year old truck (other than bleeding new brake fluid through it).
  13. A repressed memory just came back... In the early 2000's the front diff probably has a black plastic vent cover. For reasons that make absolutely no sense to me, synthetic gear lube causes a problem. There is an upgrade to a white plastic vent cover that solves the problem. My 2004.5 came with a white vent so I haven't had a problem. For 2002, it's likely black so you should not use synthetic unless you upgrade the vent cover. Or you could try it and see if you have a problem. Obviously, the color of the vent doesn't matter, so I assume the vent itself is different.
  14. Well, believe whatever you want to believe, and you should certainly do whatever you want to do... The G80 is a "gov-lock" system that uses clutch plates to engage the locker. Those clutch plates behave better with some friction modifier (but not too much!!). But go ahead, don't use put it in because it might be quite a few thousand miles before it starts grabbing and chattering. But also remember, many of the gear oils will already have friction modifier in it. You didn't say if you have the Allison transmission. If so, there are some seals that might not hold up well with Dex-VI (at least that what Allison says), until after sometime in 2006 when Allison changed the seals to be compatible. Even GM came out with a manual transmission and transfer case oil to be used in applications that previously called for Dex-III INSTEAD of using Dex-VI. But what do they know? Again, do whatever you want to do. No harm will come for thousands of miles. Sorry, I don't have the time or energy to give you references to the Allison or GM notices on this, but Google should work. [on edit the morning after...] Sorry, 2 paragraphs up I should have been clear I meant using the GM transfer case oil for the transfer case (not the transmission).
  15. Absolutely. Personally, I've been running Mobil 1 Synthetic 75w-90 LS gear oil for years now in both, with no issues. If it's a G80 in the rear then something with a friction modifier is needed (like the Mobil 1), or you'd have to experiment on your own to add it to get the right amount. 2002 2500HD and asking about non-diesel oil . . . so 6L or 8.1L? Different transmissions... If an Allison (came with 8.1L) then a TES-295 is best, or something along those lines. For the transfer case, a synthetic formerly-known-as-Dex-III is nice for the transfer case, like Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF ("for use in 2005 and older GM" in small print on the back, which means it's Dex-III compatible), or Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic ATF (Dex/Merc). The transfer case isn't very particular, but it might be nice to stay compatible (or the same) as what's in the transmission.

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