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Gduck24

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About Gduck24

  • Rank
    Enthusiast
  • Birthday 10/28/1978

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  • Website URL
    http://www.makemodhack.com
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  • Location
    Aledo - Texas
  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Golf, Bowfishing, Trucks

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  1. Went and got a new fan at lunch. That's what it was! Cost $100 from autozone, but the install is stupid easy. Two screws to pull the cover and then pull a tab down and twist the motor assembly out. I have had a drill or other motors that have done similar on/off kind of actions but they usually completely die and never come back. This was particularly odd because of the continuous intermittent issues over the last couple weeks. Glad I didn't go chasing sensors. What brand were you getting? Under warranty I assume factory parts? Maybe I'll have better luck with Autozone. If they do, I didn't notice it. I had a '99 and an '04 and changed or cleaned those on occasion, which seemed to help some.
  2. I have a 2008 NBS crewcab 5.3 4x4 with digital dual climate control. I recently started having trouble with my ac not working right. Didn't think much of it at first as it was almost like a voltage type issue with the fan blower slowing slightly on occasion under different engine loads. Started getting worse, with a lot of sporadic panting, and now very seldom works correctly, sometimes even not at all. Does not matter if its on auto or manual. Seems like right when you start the truck it works strong and correctly for about 3-4 minutes, then it goes to panting and quits. If I turn it to manual and hit the max fan button it will come back on but not always the strongest level. Levels below 4 seem to pretty much turn the fan off. There is an odd light clicking/clunking that I get back in the dash, could just be an actuator motor. Sometime it sounds like a motor that is getting ticked on and off sometimes too. I did install a new radio a month ago, AC seemed to work fine directly after. I know some of the older silverados could get messed up with the harnesses that you used on them. I have installed a new blower control module (resistor). This did not fix it. I know there are at least a couple fairly cheap sensors that are involved, but I am leaning toward it being the actual head control in the dash. What do you guys think? Watch this video, and turn it up. Any help is appreciated. [media=560x315]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BGymxNl9y2w[/media]
  3. Its 2" sprinkler pipe. Accurate dimensions, although a crude drawing, are on page 2 of this thread. I'm getting going on a front bumper like the trail ready bumpers now. Going to be fun.
  4. I would wonder about the workability, and weldability of the conduit. Its so thin that it might be harder to bend in a cheap bender, and harder to weld as well because its not a mild steel. Mine ended up probably around 25 -30lbs. I hung them by myself without a problem. I have seen some of the 3" bars on some trucks and I think they look good on the crewcab lwb trucks for sure, but they seem a little heavy on the half ton swb or less than crew cabs. I was born in raised in Jacksonville tx. Now in Aledo, by Weatherford. Ive done stuff out of conduit before without any problems. Just turn the MIG way down. I live 20 miles from Jacksonville, and my wife grew up there. the world gets smaller everyday. Your wife and mine probably went to school together. She used to be a Russell.
  5. I would wonder about the workability, and weldability of the conduit. Its so thin that it might be harder to bend in a cheap bender, and harder to weld as well because its not a mild steel. Mine ended up probably around 25 -30lbs. I hung them by myself without a problem. I have seen some of the 3" bars on some trucks and I think they look good on the crewcab lwb trucks for sure, but they seem a little heavy on the half ton swb or less than crew cabs. I was born in raised in Jacksonville tx. Now in Aledo, by Weatherford.
  6. Found this the other day and it reminded me about this post. Of course I forgot to post this. Maybe it will help somebody.
  7. I actually did the first set like the factory bars. I had a tab welded on the bracket to bolt up to the bottom of the body, I beleive there are corresponding tabs on the body with holes in them directly below where the factory bolts go in. It was pretty stable but not that great. I am not a big guy, but I do have quite a few guys that ride that are 240+. I worried about 2 or more at once on a bar. They do it on the factory bars so its got to be a legit mount, but there just seemed like there was a little too much give when I jumped on them. I had a guy on one of my constrution sites say he actually broke one of the tabs (dodge - go figure) and so he then went back to the frame with a brace like this. I do understand that this is not the optimum installation because of the flexing but I really dont get myself into those kind of situations anymore. I tore up enough trucks before, I only use 4x4 if I need it now. But you are right, and others that may play offroad a little more should understand that this may not work for them. If your wife is like mine, I'm sure she is constantly "saving" you money when she buys stuff. Go get a quote from the metal fab shop on a set of these, and then show her how much you can "save" by getting the parts and tools yourself! Score!
  8. I have had the grapplers for the last 4 sets and I really just got bored with them. My tire guy has always been a cooper dealer but he could get the grapplers cheaper and they lasted forever. I ended up getting these for $50 less. YMMV. When you see these in person they are pretty mean. You can hear the faintest whirr going 70. They ride smooth. They do pull the steering wheel around a little when you get into a worn rut on the highway, especially when you are slowing down. My grapplers did that as well. I think thats a phenomenon with 305 and wider, relitively low profile tires. Hopefully these will last as long. If they do, they will be my new tire, because they are a quiet but more aggressive looking tire.
  9. Thanks for all the replies. I am pretty proud of them. Most of my mods are usually for function or style only, never have been the best at merging the two together, but this is as close as I have gotten so far. If anybody wants more details on how I'd be happy to post. I have another set planned sometime in the future and will try to document it better. It took me about about 3 hours total with a credit card, heat gun, and goo gone. Worth it IMO. The sides are cake, that bowtie on the back was a beast. It took an hour to get all the tape off. Born and raised back in East Texas, but moved closer to the big city of Fort Worth now. Heres a couple more pictures of the brackets - This was the first set and prototype, so its not all perfect where you don't normally see them.
  10. There are 3 mounting points. The first time/side I just looked up directions from the Go Rhino site and they basically show you the bracket and mount works. I copied that, but it was not very substantial and flexed. I ended up taking a small angle iron back to the frame and attached with self tappers with rubber washers. I don't do much off roading like I used to so I'm not worried about flex between the body and frame. They are super stout. I need to post a better pic of the mount that I have. I built another set for my buddy and we put 4 mounts on his because of a third step. His is an 05 model but the brackets and set up worked the same. We did make the hoop 1" wider and 1/2" deeper for a little more ease. The brackets are 4x4x3/16 angle attached with a 1x2 tubing. There are bolts on the front two already in the body and a hole near the rear where I used an insert.
  11. I've been looking for some reasonably priced nerf bars that are close to the go rhinos or n-fabs, but never really found a cheaper alternative, so I made my own. I bought a cheapo pipe bender from harbor freight, as well as a crappy chop saw, angle finders, grinding wheels and good grinder,(My welds generally lack asthetic appeal, so I knew I would need a good one.). I had some schedule forty pipe laying around so I used it, but the totals would have been less than $50 bucks on pipe. I have a welder. I got color match paint from O'Reilly's and its ok. I didn't look hard but the two painters I contacted wanted $150 to paint them. I tried powder coating but it didnt match and the guys only charged $50 for it. Other than my time, I have less than $300 in them. All in all, I invested in some mediocre tools and gained a lot of knowledge after this project and would recomend it to anyone. I can draw up some dimensions and have lots of things to save time if anybody wants to try it. I'll post some closer pics of the brackets tonight if anybody wants some. Last pic has my new 305/20/50 Cooper LTZ's - I have always ran Nitto, but I really like these. They are quiet and supposed to last as long. We will see.
  12. I had also seen this at gmpartsdirect but have read bad things about them not telling customers where/when to expect their parts. The dealer I use said part #20918430 took over the #25966515 -(which he had for $400). He could not get the #20918430. Today, I got this email from GMPartsDirect.com regarding the #20918430. I am sorry we do not handle price quotes through email, but you can do the following to get your price quote. You will have to enter your part number into the SEARCH space provided on the homepage. You will then have to add this part number to your shopping cart and click on CHECKOUT to see total charges with shipping and handling delivered to your door. Part number 20918430 is a special order part that is currently on national backorder with GM and GM is not currently showing an ETA for the part to be released. Thank You, Scott GmPartsDirect.com I have a feeling its 400 for the old part number or back to the newly crashed salvage yard.
  13. How many wires go to the switches. I was thinking about getting this kit, but i dont want these switches in my dash. It seems that you could extend the switch wiring and cut them into the doors, where they belong. What do you guys that installed this kit think?
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