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5.7s10

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About 5.7s10

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  1. i just ordered the under shock 1.5" ill have to see if i need the rear spacer 1" after its installed. id like to have some rake. thats what i was thinking, i could take the wheel off, unbolt the shock and pry up on it and slide in the spacer. i dont see why not.
  2. no feelings hurt over here! you have to really try harder than that, ive got thick skin which grew from where i work and the all people i deal with at work. i get more shit from my 8 year old cousin than you guys! ive found a couple of pictures of the setup i was looking for but with no rear blocks. i have 36.5 up front and 39 in the rear. so i should still have 1" of rake. measuring to the top of the wheel wells. too busy drinking beers and playing with the stihl kombi. ill be ordering the motofab 1.5 kit, and ill install it my next day off, been working 7 days a week, on call week nights and weekends, so my next free day ill post some pictures of it. dont let the thread die out, if you have any pictures to contribute for the 1.5 level, post them please.
  3. anyone with a 1.5 motofab and 1" rear block? i searched pretty good and only came up with 1 picture of a 1" front and 1" rear block. looks good but not high enough up front. debated 2" but i want to keep close to the factory angles (steering, suspension, and driveline) ive seen angles of 2-2.5" and im not crazy for them. its my opinion, please dont hijack debating angles. i just want a clean, small lift stance with close to factory rake. ive seen the 2-2.5" in person, dont get me wrong, they look great, but not enough for me to own one that high. and im 24, not a 60 year old man like im sounding...lol i have a 2016 silverado dbl cab 18" rims. 5.3 thanks guys! -Green
  4. i made a home made under body washer 3/4 pvc one piece was about 2.5' long with holes drilled on top to spray the water up. one side was capped, the other had a 45* female fitting going up to a 3.5'ish piece, then another 45* female fitting, going to a 3/4 ball valve, then to a PVC female to 3/4 NPT male. then a 3/4npt to female hose end. you get it idea. i walk around the truck flushing it out. works very well. the under body spray at carwashes use contaminated recycled water. if they were to get fresh water for every vehicle, thats THOUSANDS of gallons a day that they will be paying for from the water hookups. so now all you guys going to car washes especially in the winter, your soaking your frame and under body with salt water, dirt, and other chemicals to treat snowy icy roads. not smart. sprinkler or make a sprayer for $20. i also bought some touch up GM frame coating in a can, and touched up some spots where the dealer picked my truck up from their lift. i also sprayed my diff all the way around. mud flaps work great and stop alot of shit from going into your panels, doors, and bumpers. i live in CT, and i know how winter treats vehicles. make sure you spray up inside wheel wells until the water runs clear. youd be surprised how much shit gets up underneath.
  5. I went 35 over stock front tint. It's very slightly lighter than the rear. It's calculated to be 26% combined with the 75% factory and the 35% overlay. .75x.35=.26. Remove the decimal point and that's your percent. My old truck I matched the back and it was VERY dark. The guy layed 18% over the factory 75%. I thought he would have done it to match when scanned. Cop said it was 13% up front. I laughed and said "I thought it was 18, ****ing guy lied to me" he threw me a ticket. Kept them on and just payed the fine. 35 over the front stock looks great with black interior
  6. force a buy back. and if they wont, take them to court and make them. some states have laws about bring a vehicle back numerous times for an issue without being fixed, as well as GM. keep bringing it back. i think its 4 times for the same issue without a fix they have to buy it back. if they fail to do so, you can take them to court. switch to ford. **** nissan, keep the money in america.
  7. its not a Cadillac or lamborghini relax. it looks fine. drive it. and if your worried about trade in or resale, its not worth shit now because there is an accident on the carfax. so dont let the bumber bother you. no one can notice it. you wont get more money for it if you get it perfect. it looks VERY good and id just keep it the way it is. get a coffee, and carry on. dont loose sleep over it. sorry to be a dick, but seriously. its a silverado custom. not a high country. no offense. the accident on the report will do more hurt on the resale than a bumber that is .001" out of spec.
  8. i just drove my truck around, and what a difference and no vibration..feels as responsive as my 05 duramax without the tq obviously. very nice to drive.. if i had no warranty id have efilive done to wake it up more, but for now, this made a big difference and im happy how it gets up. especially since it took a ****ing panters stick. kind of hacky but hey, screw it.
  9. i see this alot. people asking dumb questions and what not. somethings take a few seconds of actually looking, and feeling around. i wasnt sure where to put the shim myself, and i didnt read much at all. i went outside, checked it out, felt in and around it, and found the gap on the bottom bolt, between the bracket and the firewall. wiggled it and verified that was the gap that wiggles.and shimmed it not worth the bashing, but sometimes you just have to get off the couch or chair, and look yourself.
  10. i went outside, saw the flex, went inside, got a painters stick, broke it in 2 pieces 1" long, wedged under the gap on the bottom, holy shit, i cant believe it. i have motorized pedals 2016 1500. there is more play left and right and a little front and back on the assembly. but now there feels like there is no more play at all. thanks for upping this thread where i would see it. when i see you at the bar, ill buy a round!
  11. yup. same here in CT. usually female drivers hit potholes and **** rims up or blow out the sidewalls... seems kind of crazy to try to blame the town. no body in this world can take the blame for their own mistake. thats what is wrong with america these days... its always someones fault and not yours... asking the town to replace your rim? might as well see if they cover brake pads and rotors because the town has stop lights and stop signs..
  12. That's a good way to ruin cv's. 4lo 3 point turn...lol
  13. 2wd all the time. even in snow unless i need 4wd. once i get moving in the snow i switch to 2wd. never needed auto in the rain... 2wd off road until i get cant move. obviously i wont bury my self.. auto is for girls and soccer moms who cant drive. what did you guys all do back in the day of rear wheel drive cars and trucks? i guess its different when you grow up driving 2wd
  14. It won't go past factory tables preset but there is a range within the computer, what to do with certain fuel based on pinging. There will be different timing for 87, 89, 93 and 85 based on knock sensor readings. I'm not trying to debate what people know in just stating facts how engines operate based on fuel and with 11:1 compression, you SHOULD use higher octane fuel for peak performance and efficiency. if gm was going to build a motor strictly for 87 they wouldn't have a 11:1 compression ratio. They do that for a range of fuel people will be using and they use knock sensors to compensate for just that. 11:1 is a very efficient and very good ratio to have. Back in the day of 4 barrel carb motors, depending how you built it or with the compression, you would have to stick with ONE type of fuel. Also before gm built motors with 11:1, performance guys would strive to have that as a minimum to get the best performance. If you lowered the octane you could potentially damage the pistons and run hotter temps in motors without sensors. That's the beauty of knock sensors and computers, to adjust timing for safe operations of multiple fuels. I wasn't debating knowledge or insulting people with how much people know but if someone says knock sensors do nothing and higher octane fuel does nothing, ill explain what they do and how it works.
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