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Found 253 results

  1. I have a 2012 silverado and my check engine light keeps coming off and on. The codes read are c0900- device 1 voltage high(history) c0899- device 1 voltage low(history) p0300- multiple misfire detected (History Mil) p0301- cylinder 1 misfire detected (confirmed) there is a slight rough idle on the truck, and I think that my gas mileage has decreased slightly Does anyone have any idea what my problem could be before I take it to a shop, or start replacing parts
  2. Brand new 2017 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LTZ 2WD, 600 miles. Has a speed limiter limiting the vehicle speed to 98 MPH. I installed a tuner to just raise this parameter only. At 99 MPH the truck began a drivetrain vibration that increased with speed. At 100-103 MPH it was extremely bad with a loud sound that filled the cabin and a vibration that felt like the drivetrain was about to fly apart. At 109 MPH the vibration ceased entirely. Slowing down from there the exact opposite happend with the vibration and noise subsiding entirely by 93 MPH. The truck also has developed a loud vibration noise at 52-55, and 34-39 MPH as the torque converter locks and unlocks. It will last as long as that speed and constant foot feed is maintained. I’ve owned many Chevrolet pickups to include a 1990 Silverado 1500 that could go over 140 mpg! I’ve never experienced this vibration and noise before. Could this be a problem on all 1500s that GM is covering up with software? I expect a $51,000 truck to be able to travel at 100 MPH if required without coming apart!!!! Any others experienced this? If so, was it diagnosed? Was it repaired? What was the diagnosis and the repair? Did the repaired problem return later? Thanks, Bart
  3. This is driving me insane, 2000 Silverado 4.8 vortec has codes for random missfire and apparently all cylinders are missing about the same amount of times according to the Chevy dealer. I noticed a small intake manifold gasket leak (truck would barely run on cold cold starts till it warmed up) so I replaced the intake manifold gaskets and did multiple smoke tests confirming no air leaks... I have checked each individual spark plug for spark, they all do. Had fuel pressure within spec. Removed all injector connectors 1 at a time and they all made a big difference (all are working in pretty sure).. I replaced pcv valve and fuel filter to be safe. I also plugged up the egr port in the manifold to see if I have a leaky egr system still nothing. The codes the truck also gave are map and maf sensor codes, although the codes were pulled before I changed the intake manifold gaskets so I'm assuming the manifold leak may have caused these sensors to throw codes but I am going to swap sensors with another truck tomorrow. Truck does have 240k on it, but I know this problem is fixable although I have nearly lost all hope as of this point. Any advice is much appreciated, thanks
  4. Guys, I'm new here and I'm sorry if there's already a similar thread about this issue. I chose to eliminate my new truck fever by sprucing up my truck that has been paid off for 5 years now. My truck is 2WD and leveled. I went from the stock 17" wheels with 275/70/17 tires to the XD Buck 25 20" x 10" rims with a -25 offset. The new tire size is 275/55/20. I got it back from the tire shop and it was rubbing everywhere and shaking while I was breaking. The shaking came from the clips or "keepers" on the rear wheel studs that keeps the drum in place in the factory (got that part resolved after it was found on this forum! So, thanks guys!). After much trimming, the tire shop says I need a 3" suspension lift to have more room and eliminate all rubbing. Am I missing something? It's been four days in a row that I've been to the tire shop and it seems that nothing is getting resolved other than the shaking due to the clips. Is there a certain style trim that I can perform? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!
  5. This is driving me insane, 2000 Silverado 4.8 vortec has codes for random missfire and apparently all cylinders are missing about the same amount of times according to the Chevy dealer. I noticed a small intake manifold gasket leak (truck would barely run on cold cold starts till it warmed up) so I replaced the intake manifold gaskets and did multiple smoke tests confirming no air leaks... I have checked each individual spark plug for spark, they all do. Had fuel pressure within spec. Removed all injector connectors 1 at a time and they all made a big difference (all are working in pretty sure).. I replaced pcv valve and fuel filter to be safe. I also plugged up the egr port in the manifold to see if I have a leaky egr system still nothing. The codes the truck also gave are map and maf sensor codes, although the codes were pulled before I changed the intake manifold gaskets so I'm assuming the manifold leak may have caused these sensors to throw codes but I am going to swap sensors with another truck tomorrow. Truck does have 240k on it, but I know this problem is fixable although I have nearly lost all hope as of this point. Any advice is much appreciated, thanks
  6. Looking for pictures of 2015-2017 Chevrolet Silverado with stock 18” wheels and 37s-40s with 6-9” suspension lifts. I had a truck with stock 17” wheels and 37s with spacers and loved the look of it. Wanting to build a new truck with the same platform.
  7. John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 1-15-2018 Ram launched its new 1500 today at the Detroit Auto show. Highlights of the launch include a new eTorque mild hybrid system that increases payload by 22% and towing capability by 20% due to its significant torque increases at low RPM. The New Ram also has a class-leading infotainment setup that takes FCA’s already popular UConnect system to a place no other truck seems to be in terms of size. The new Ram also has revised air suspension options, more high strength steel in its frame and other key areas which brings down weight, and is longer, wider and more aerodynamic than the outgoing model. Does the new Ram sound to you in some ways like the new Silverado? If so, watch the launch video and it will sound even more similar since its launch host also has a foreign accent, just like the two hosts of the Silverado launch event! Rule Britannia! “The all-new 2019 Ram 1500 delivers a no-compromise approach to the full-size truck segment with strength, durability, technology and efficiency,” said Mike Manley, Head of Ram Brand. “The Ram 1500 offers truck buyers leading-edge innovation with 225 pounds of weight reduction, 12,750 pounds of towing capability, a stunning Uconnect 12-inch touchscreen display and active systems that improve fuel efficiency and assist drivers. The Ram 1500 stands out as the benchmark in a very competitive segment.” The new Ram has many other interesting tidbits added. Ram says there are now 100 safety features to bore you. One plus of the new mild hybrid system is that when the truck shuts off (yup, stop-start), the new system is what powers the re-start. The parking brake is now electronic. There is a new 4X4 off-road package with cool stuff. Both Ford and GM are bragging that their new diesel engines now to Ram’s. However, Ram made sure to point out that its 1500 has a new diesel engine coming in 2019 that will “Regain all of its titles.” It sounds like 2019 is the year of the diesel. The new Ram has many very specific improvements we will explore in the coming week with focus stories and comparison and contrast stories showing where Silverado stands among the new lineup of trucks for 2019. Check out our focus on the UConnect infotainment system here.
  8. So I recently inherited a 99 silverado and I want to lift it a little. I was planning on cranking the keys and adding a leaf in the back to clear 33s without rubbing. I have heard stories of having to redo front ends because of overcranking torsion bars. I was wondering can I put hdtorsionbads on my 1500 and will that give me any lift??
  9. 2017 sierra A/T crew cab I have the most annoying tick noise over bumps, coming from the b pillar behind my left ear and it is driving me brick house, I've pulled at the trim off put my hands on everything made sure everything is tight, stuff rags in between contact points, I've run out of ideas, anyone have an guidance for me, I'm a ex gm technician of 5 years , I know what I'm doing but of course my own truck baffles me..per usual any new bulletins or tsbs?
  10. I've been wandering these forums for a little bit now - I was initially looking hard at a 16+ chevy. Then realized it wasn't practical for me to buy another newer truck. So I then started looking at 07-13 trucks.... Then realized I don't want to deal with the 5.3 AFM issues.... So now I'm very interested in even older ones, from 03-06. I have been looking for about a month and have now found a 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT that is 2 hours away. Heres the info: - 2006 GMC Sierra SLT 1500 4x4 5.3 - 127k miles - crew cab - leather - heated & memory seats - electronic everything - sunroof - matching cap - tinted windows - Grey color (MY FAVORITE) - 2.5" lift - GMT900 wheels - few other add ons, only a few repairs to the front end... mostly untouched - new rear brake lines The bad: - rusted out driver side rocker, but the passenger side is almost flawless (so he says - the pictures look like its good) - dent/scrape on the passenger side from the rear door to the beginning of the bed. I got an estimate to fix all of the body issues from someone who I personally know who does professional body work - ~$2,200 to repair. I will post pictures later when I'm able.... But for now I wanted to get a feel for what everyone who is experienced with these trucks thinks about it. I have him down to $8.000 cash. Do you think that is a good deal? It seems that these crew cabs are GOLD and hold their value like an old jeep. I love the truck so far. I don't mind the rust because it is all contained on the bottom rocker - which can all be replaced as one when I see fit. Does this sound like a good deal? Obviously I'll probably have to have work done on the front end in the near future. I am planning to go look at it 10/7/17.... exactly 1 week away. Thanks for your input.
  11. Zane Merva Executive Editor / Publisher, GM-Trucks.com 1/15/18 Earlier today, Fiat-Chrysler introduced their new 2019 RAM 1500 Pickup. We have more on the all new RAM here, but one thing caught our eye and we wanted to talk about it right away. The 2019 RAM's optional 12-inch Uconnect infotainment system. We were all happy that Chevrolet upgraded the interface of the MyLink System for the 2019 Silverado. That said, the brand didn't upgrade the screen or make it any larger than the last generation. To be fair, 8-inches is right in line with the market as it sits today. Ford certainly didn't offer anything larger, so Chevy apparently didn't see the need to go bigger or better with MyLink for the next generation Silverado. That might not have been a great idea. The new (and highly optional) UConnect seems like it was plucked straight from a Tesla. In comparison, 2019 MyLink looks like it was pulled from a Step 2 Playset Manual. Take a look for yourself. 2019 RAM 12-inch UConnect vs 2019 Silverado MyLink 2019 RAM Uconnect 12 inch vs 8.4 inch 2019 RAM Uconnect 12 inch Interface Of course, we've yet to actually use this new 12-inch system but we've been impressed with RAM's smaller 8.4-inch screen and interface for some time. What do you think? Does the 2019 Silverado have enough with an 8-inch MyLink System or does the 2019 RAM blow it away?
  12. Hello, I recently installed OEM Chevrolet black bowties on my 2016 Silverado. Though I was unable to make a video recording the process, I did find a lot of shortcuts along the way that may be helpful to others. Below is a guide of how to do the swap yourself. -------------------------------------------------- ***Front Bowtie Removal/Install (30 min or less, 10 if you know what to look for):*** - To remove the front bowtie, Chevrolet recommends that you remove the entire front grille assembly. however, I found this is not necessary. If you lay underneath the front of the truck, you will see a plastic cover that fills the gap between the front bumper and the frame to cover the bottom side of the radiator from debris. - There are three (3) plastic body molding/trim molding connectors that will need to be removed (one in the center and one to either side about 18 inches out). I found the best way to do this was with a short bladed flat head screw driver and both hands. Simply put, force will coerce the pins out of their plug holders. - Once those are removed you will be able to stick your arm through the underside of the radiator protector and feel the four (4) tabs and two (2) pins that hold the front emblem to the grille. - To remove the emblem, I used a key (spare, cheap one) to push the tabs outward from the center while pushing away from the front with my hand to pop the tab out of the clip area. I suggest starting from one side and making your way to the other. This did take slightly more force than I expected, so do not be afraid to push outward and away from the grille. - Once all 4 tabs are free, you should be able to get out from under the front and remove the emblem completely from the front of the grille. - The new, black bowtie, should snap right in!!! No glue or tape needed! **The 2016 Silverado 1500 uses a different front emblem than the 14 or 15 models, make sure you purchase the proper emblems for your truck!!! ---------------------------------------- ***Rear Bowtie Removal/Install (1 hour or so, if done right):*** - First, gather the necessary tools to complete the job: Hair dryer or Heat gun, 2 microfiber towels, WD40, Goo B Gone, Fishing line (I used 50LB line, right size and strength, but you can used the guts of parachute cord and i have heard of dental floss, but that seemed silly), isopropyl alcohol, water, painters tape, plastic scraping blade/tool, small amount of gasoline (explained later) - Using the painters tape, outline the emblem on all 4 sides, careful to follow all the edges as close as possible. This will stay there until the new emblem is placed, serving as your guide lines. - Disclosure: I removed the back emblem on a 93 degree day, my truck is dark colored, and I used a hair dryer. Other conditions may require longer heating time. Heat the emblem to soften the adhesive backing on the emblem making it easier to remove (yes this actually makes it easier). Use your own judgment, heat until you think it is ready, just don't overheat. - Using the fishing line (or whatever you have), begin at one corner and slice through the backing. I would do an inch or so at a time and then reheat the nest area I was removing. This process took about 7-10 minutes to get off completely. - If you are lucky (like hit the lottery lucky), the adhesive backing will come off with the emblem, and there will not be much left on the tailgate. But, if yours is anything like mine, the adhesive will be stuck on the tailgate. spray this with WD40 and/or Goo B Gone, allow to soak momentarily, and use the scraping tool to remove the thickest parts of the adhesive back. There will be leftover glue on the tailgate. - You can play around with WD40/Goo B Gone to get the rest off, or you can be like me and take it off in seconds. This is where that gasoline comes into play. Using one of your microfiber towels, apply a liberal amount of gas and the glue should come right off. This should not harm the paint at all, as long as you clean it off within a day. - Now that you have the glue and adhesive backing removed, you need to sterilize the area to put the new emblem on. Mix a one to one mixture of the rubbing alcohol and water. Using the other microfiber towel, wipe the area clean. The alcohol will dissolve the WD40 and Goo B Gone and anything else that would prevent good adhesion. Clean until you are satisfied. - The area should be ready to be fitted with the new emblem now. I would perform some dryfits, with the adhesive backing cover still on so that you get a feel for where it should go. Then, remove the film, and slowly and carefully place the new emblem. Make sure and press firmly once positioned to ensure good adhesion. - Step back and admire your work. ------------------------------------------------------------------ Here are some pictures of my success! (I also added the OEM GM backup camera that my truck did not come with. If you need one like I did, I can tell you about that process too! I have a big hitch on, and backing into every spot, since I hate backing out, was getting risky.)
  13. Hey Everyone, I am about to pull the trigger on a 2017 or 2018 Sierra 1500 SLT. My main issue right now is do I buy one on the lot with the standard V8 (5.3) or do I order one with the 6.2 L? I tow a 5000 lb travel trailer often and a smaller 10 foot utility trailer. I am coming from a Diesel Volkswagen Touareg with over 400 lb feet of torque. This will be my daily driver. I am not concerned about the money to upgrade the engine but more so whether It is worth it. I really like the power ratings of the 6.2 l but is it that much more noticeable than the 5.3? I don't want this truck to feel "slow" since I am coming from a torquey vehicle. Thank you
  14. I’m sure this is already here somewhere but I didn’t see anything recent on this specific question. Does anyone have any recommendations on swapping out the headlights on a 2015 Sierra 1500 SLT? I feel like a flashlight would give me better light down road than the junk stock lights. From what I’ve read the stock projectors suck. What did y’all end up doing to make your lights actually useful at night? Complete new housing, HID conversions, LED conversion? Thanks in advance! -Zach
  15. So about a week ago, I got the "Left rear indicator failure" I figured it was just a bulb. So I put it off for a couple days. However, this Saturday I decided to change out the bulbs. Well the bulbs are good and also the fuses. I checked the wires that come from the junction box and they where all good. Any idea what it could be? The running lights work, but when it comes to stoping and the turn signal I get nothing. This shit is driving me crazy. This is what I've been told: - I need a new Junction Box. - I need to replace the fuse box in the engine bay Please help, thanks for anything!
  16. New to the forum as of a couple of weeks ago but just saw this page tonight. Vehicles: 1998 GMC SIERRA SLT 1500 5.7 +True Dual Flowmaster Delta Flow 50 Series Exhaust System +Bakflip Fibermax Bed Cover +Billet Grille +Kenwood Excelon GPS Unit w/Apple Car Play +JL Audio 13.5” W5 sub with Hertz Component Speakers/JLA Amp 2017 GMC SIERRA SLT 5.3L +True Dual Flowmaster Delta Flow 50 Series Exhaust System +AFE Momentum GT Pro 5R CAI +AFE Throttle Body Spacer +Diablo Intune i3 Tuner +Bakflip F1 Bed Cover w/Bakbox +Denali Grille Insert +Katskin Leather Seat CoverS +Weathertech Floor Mats +Window Tints (installing AFE/Diablo mods this week with help from a buddy. Exhaust installed last week) I am a high school teacher and head baseball coach. I also own a lawncare business. Thanks Patrick B
  17. Hey there, i wanna know if im able to upgrade my steering wheel from my silverado 1500 to the leather, stitched, heated wheel that you find in the LTZ / Z71 trucks. If there is a way lemme know step by step how to do it! thanks
  18. Does anyone know if a bracket other than the windshield suction cup for a Garmin is out there. I have a Ford work truck and one fits in the console like it was made for it. My Sierra has nowhere in it to balance it. I hate putting it on the windshield.
  19. So about a week ago, I got the "Left rear indicator failure" I figured it was just a bulb. So I put it off for a couple days. However, this Saturday I decided to change out the bulbs. Well the bulbs are good and also the fuses. I checked the wires that come from the junction box and they where all good. Any idea what it could be? The running lights work, but when it comes to stoping and the turn signal I get nothing. This shit is driving me crazy. This is what I've been told: - I need a new Junction Box. - I need to replace the fuse box in the engine bay Please help, thanks for anything!
  20. Howdy, I have a 1998 Silverado 1500 with a 350. I bought the truck for parts but I might decide to fix it. The truck runs however water seems to dump out from underneath the AC compressor. The cooling system doesn't stay pressurized and the water comes out as fast as I can put it in. There's no coolant in the oil and it doesn't seem to burn any either. So I'm leaning towards it not being a headgasket. Any other ideas?
  21. How's it going, I have a 2000 single cab 4.8 Silverado 1500 that has a misfire, gradually revving up the engine you can tell the engine is missing and causes truck to vibrate, and vibration is worse while driving. Has following codes: p0300, p0137, p0141, p0157. I believe these are codes for random engine misfire and various 02 sensors? If someone could point me in the right direction I would really appreciate it thanks
  22. I have an 04 Silverado 1500 crew cab z71. It's all stock. I currently have stock 17" rims with 265/70/17 tires. I'm looking to fit 285/70/17 tires on and will be tightening the torsion bar to create enough clearance. I'm also looking to get aftermarket rims that'll make them stick out a bit. What rims or sizes would you suggest?
  23. I have an 04 Silverado 1500 crew cab z71. It's all stock. I currently have stock 17" rims with 265/70/17 tires. I'm looking to fit 285/70/17 tires on and will be tightening the torsion bar to create enough clearance. I'm also looking to get aftermarket rims that'll make them stick out a bit. What rims or sizes would you suggest?
  24. Hello, I recently got a 2017 Silverado Custom 1500 and was wondering if keyless entry is something i should have received at purchase. The truck was paired with one when i test drove it but when i received it i expected to have it but realized i only received two keys. i was curious if anyone else has this model and if it came with keyless entry or not. Thanks everyone!
  25. What's up ya'll. I've had my front and rear Rough Country floor mats in my 2014 Silverado Double Cab for a bit over a year. I shot a quick update video to show you guys how they are holding up and protecting my floors
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