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Found 304 results

  1. I just bought my first newish truck, being the 2014 Silverado 2wd z71 lt. It’s got the crew cab with 5.3l under the hood. I’m currently stationed at ft Stewart ga. Im just looking for some help or some advice on some upgrades I’d like to do to this truck and which products might be the best. - I’d like to change the headlights and fog lights from stock. - Put a leveling kit and some new (bigger) a/t tires on it and not sure what size being 2wd. - Change to an aftermarket air intake. - Do something about the shitty stock speakers (without Bose). Wether it be new door speakers and sub(s). Or be just subs and have a separate amp just for door speakers. Do I need a processor to hook up to stock 8” head unit. - How do I add any app or navigation to this stock 8” head unit - Exhaust? - How to get more performance from the truck. Anything would help, Thanks
  2. Truck was purchased new in November 2014. It's the 5.3L, with 3.42 gears. SLT crew cab short box 4x4 model. I added the G4 Elite Fold-A-Cover week 1.
  3. After getting back from a 5month deployment, my 2014 Silverado 5.3 2wd, cruise control speed decrease is now increasing the speed. The + acts normal but - is now also speed increase. The battery was disconnected this entire deployment. I’ve reset battery numerous times for hours trying to drain any capacitor I could. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. It was in a cold environment. (Seattle WA)
  4. Winjet Taillights

    Selling these Winjet taillights from my '15 Silverado as I purchased a '17 Silverado and they already have LED. These are 6 months old in excellent condition. All parts come with except you will need 3M double-sided tape if you don't want to use the screws to mount. Units do NOT come with LED reverse lights, those are sold separately. Asking $225 + the ride to your door in original box. Stock Picture: Picture before boxing up: In use pictures:
  5. Hello all, glad to be a part of your forums. My first truck was a 2004 Silverado SS Onyx Black. Since then I've had a few cars/suv's in between but I'm sooo glad to be back in a Chevy truck. Last weekend I picked up a used 2014 Silverado LT 5.3L V8 from the local Chevy dealership in Enid, Oklahoma. Shortly after this picture was taken I added a Reflex spray in liner, tinted the front windows to match the back 20%, installed a leveling kit, and added a stubby antenna. At first I wasn't sure whether to go with Black or Chrome accents but lately I'm leaning towards chrome. I recently found a Undercover FLEX bed cover and Chrome running boards that I hope to have within the next week. After that I want to find neoprene seat covers (gray?) and chrome door handles with matching mirrors. Brownstone is a unique color that not everyone can rock but if done right it's hard to beat!
  6. Hey guys, I posted in the giant thread about my fix but I'm sure it's already gotten lost. I think this is important to at least have floating somewhere for someone to search. Symptoms: At 60-70mph I was experiencing a severe shake/vibration. I could usually push out of it at 70+ but it was still noticeable. It was like clock work as soon as I hit up around 60mph. Solution: I got my truck fully inspected before purchase and they noted the vibration. Mechanic showed me a dent in the drive shaft and general wear on the shaft. His recommendation was to replace it. I ordered the part online. The new shaft came fully assembled with new Ujoints and the yoke to slide in. Installation was very easy. I have driven 100 miles since installation and I have ZERO vibration. I hit 60mph and it is very smooth. So the culprit could be the shaft the ujoint or the yoke. Once again this fix worked for me and it may not be the same issue on your truck but I had pretty bad vibrations and they are GONE. Good luck!! *NOTE* I have no warranty so that is why I attempted a fix on my own. I'm sure this problem will still crop up as peoples warranty starts to expire.
  7. Hello all. I am about to purchase a new vehicle and am considering a 2014-2016 silverado 1500. Im wondering if anyone here has any of these years that has put a lot of kms on it. I wondering how reliable they are and what problems if any you have ran into with them. The reason I'm asking is because I purchased a subscription to Consumer Reports and Reliability was only a 2/5 and overall satisfaction was a 3/5. I just paid off a 2011 F150 a year ago and now it has a stretched timing chain @ 140k. I really don't want to buy a piece of shit again. Also, the dealership gave me a 2014 1500 to try out for a few days and i really loved the truck except for one thing. In comparison to my F150 it was an extremely rough ride. It seems like every dam bump on the highway was pretty jarring. Even my lady friend noticed it clearly and she doesn't give a shit about anything when it comes to vehicles. I've heard gm/chevy ride a little stiffer but this seemed pretty bad. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  8. It’s odd that one day my A/C works fine and the other it blows hot to the max air out of the passenger side and cold to the max on the driver side. Defroster isn’t working properly either because when I have it on it just blows air out of the regular vents. Took it to the dealer and they say it could be running out of free-on but that wouldn’t cause it to blow hot as hell air out of one side and cold as hell air on the other no matter what temp setting you have it set. It’s a ‘14 I don’t think it should be having these issues plus we ride with Windows down most of the time.
  9. Hi Guys, Diablo emailed me this morning to announce that they've got their tuner units ready for the 2014's, here are some of the options it does, I've had a Diablo for my 2010 Denali since I purchased it, but back then there were a lot fewer things supported than they appear to be doing now (primarily purchased it to change the tire sizes and disable the limiter) inTune really improves the 2014 GM Truck; tunes included are 87 octane tune, MPG Booster Tune, and the Diablo tune, which should be used with octane higher than 91. Increases of up to 15 hp and 20 ft lbs of torque can be seen across the entire RPM range with the Diablo Tune. Our tunes are calibrated specifically to improve performance, drivability, and economy and reduce the factory's power-robbing "torque management" to put more power to the ground when you need it. Other options include TCM (Transmission Control Module) control to adjust automatic shift characteristics, DOD (Active Fuel Management) disable, speedometer adjustment for gear and tire changes, and raising speed and rev limiters.
  10. The music sounds great as usual, but the connected party is complaining of my audio (crackling, raspy, choppy) when calling via my Apple iPhone X and connected to bluetooth. I didn't have this issue with my previous phone and other devices don't seem to have the same experience. Has anyone else experienced this with a new phone?
  11. After driving my Silverado for a little over a year now, and having driven a few rental cars inbetween, i have realized that there is one very subtle feature that I love about my truck. With so many vehicles now using electronic cruise control, and not the old mechanical switch and buttons GM used to have, it is common for the owner to have to turn Cruise Control back on every time the engine turns off. I use my cruise control constantly, and i mean constantly (lowest it will let me set at is 24 MPH, if i could use it at 20, i would). BUT, every time i turn my truck off, and turn it back on, cruise remains on!!! I don't know if this is unique to chevy right now, but ive driven a lot of rentals recently that the cruise needs to be turned back on every time i get in it, and i find myself turning it on and off constantly because i dont remember if its on. So thank you, GM, for leaving my cruise control on and not turning it off when i didn't ask you to.
  12. Hey, I'm new to this site. Just put a 2.5inch RC leveling kit in my 2014 silverado 4x4. I really want to get 305/55r20 Nitro trail grapplers on some 20x9 rims +18 offset. I'm wondering if anyone has this setup and what kind of rubbing issues you have if any. I'd love to see some pics or even suggestions on the next tire size down that would fit if the 305s don't. Any help or suggestions would be great. Thanks guys
  13. Hello. I have a 2015 Sierra denali. And want more than anything for the all terrain grill. Just can’t fjnd one unless I want to get one painted and everything. My truck is on the left. The grill I want is in the right. And I know. The blue isn’t that common
  14. Hey Everyone. I’ve been looking at buying a diesel 6.6 L duramax denali GMC automatic transmission. Both of the 2014 models in separate cities I’ve looked over have two, 3/8 or 1/2 inch holes drilled on the left side of the steering wheel in the dash. I can tell these are not manufacturer drilled, and was wondering why I have seen this on that model twice. At first I thought to mount the trailer brake controller, but the holes are way bigger than necessary for screw mounting. The holes are big enough they are very noticeable, an ink pen could easily pass through. So question 1: why drill these two holes? Both models I’ve looked at have a trailer towing feature engaged by pushing the end of the shifter on the right side of steering wheel inwards. Would that not mean this model also comes equipped with trailer brake controller? I’m concerned the previous owners removed something I will need for trailer towing or some other feature of interest. I can see the gooseneck mount, or trailer hitch and the 7 way round plug, so I’m baffled on why these holes are there in the dash. Thanks in advance.
  15. Hello, I recently installed OEM Chevrolet black bowties on my 2016 Silverado. Though I was unable to make a video recording the process, I did find a lot of shortcuts along the way that may be helpful to others. Below is a guide of how to do the swap yourself. -------------------------------------------------- ***Front Bowtie Removal/Install (30 min or less, 10 if you know what to look for):*** - To remove the front bowtie, Chevrolet recommends that you remove the entire front grille assembly. however, I found this is not necessary. If you lay underneath the front of the truck, you will see a plastic cover that fills the gap between the front bumper and the frame to cover the bottom side of the radiator from debris. - There are three (3) plastic body molding/trim molding connectors that will need to be removed (one in the center and one to either side about 18 inches out). I found the best way to do this was with a short bladed flat head screw driver and both hands. Simply put, force will coerce the pins out of their plug holders. - Once those are removed you will be able to stick your arm through the underside of the radiator protector and feel the four (4) tabs and two (2) pins that hold the front emblem to the grille. - To remove the emblem, I used a key (spare, cheap one) to push the tabs outward from the center while pushing away from the front with my hand to pop the tab out of the clip area. I suggest starting from one side and making your way to the other. This did take slightly more force than I expected, so do not be afraid to push outward and away from the grille. - Once all 4 tabs are free, you should be able to get out from under the front and remove the emblem completely from the front of the grille. - The new, black bowtie, should snap right in!!! No glue or tape needed! **The 2016 Silverado 1500 uses a different front emblem than the 14 or 15 models, make sure you purchase the proper emblems for your truck!!! ---------------------------------------- ***Rear Bowtie Removal/Install (1 hour or so, if done right):*** - First, gather the necessary tools to complete the job: Hair dryer or Heat gun, 2 microfiber towels, WD40, Goo B Gone, Fishing line (I used 50LB line, right size and strength, but you can used the guts of parachute cord and i have heard of dental floss, but that seemed silly), isopropyl alcohol, water, painters tape, plastic scraping blade/tool, small amount of gasoline (explained later) - Using the painters tape, outline the emblem on all 4 sides, careful to follow all the edges as close as possible. This will stay there until the new emblem is placed, serving as your guide lines. - Disclosure: I removed the back emblem on a 93 degree day, my truck is dark colored, and I used a hair dryer. Other conditions may require longer heating time. Heat the emblem to soften the adhesive backing on the emblem making it easier to remove (yes this actually makes it easier). Use your own judgment, heat until you think it is ready, just don't overheat. - Using the fishing line (or whatever you have), begin at one corner and slice through the backing. I would do an inch or so at a time and then reheat the nest area I was removing. This process took about 7-10 minutes to get off completely. - If you are lucky (like hit the lottery lucky), the adhesive backing will come off with the emblem, and there will not be much left on the tailgate. But, if yours is anything like mine, the adhesive will be stuck on the tailgate. spray this with WD40 and/or Goo B Gone, allow to soak momentarily, and use the scraping tool to remove the thickest parts of the adhesive back. There will be leftover glue on the tailgate. - You can play around with WD40/Goo B Gone to get the rest off, or you can be like me and take it off in seconds. This is where that gasoline comes into play. Using one of your microfiber towels, apply a liberal amount of gas and the glue should come right off. This should not harm the paint at all, as long as you clean it off within a day. - Now that you have the glue and adhesive backing removed, you need to sterilize the area to put the new emblem on. Mix a one to one mixture of the rubbing alcohol and water. Using the other microfiber towel, wipe the area clean. The alcohol will dissolve the WD40 and Goo B Gone and anything else that would prevent good adhesion. Clean until you are satisfied. - The area should be ready to be fitted with the new emblem now. I would perform some dryfits, with the adhesive backing cover still on so that you get a feel for where it should go. Then, remove the film, and slowly and carefully place the new emblem. Make sure and press firmly once positioned to ensure good adhesion. - Step back and admire your work. ------------------------------------------------------------------ Here are some pictures of my success! (I also added the OEM GM backup camera that my truck did not come with. If you need one like I did, I can tell you about that process too! I have a big hitch on, and backing into every spot, since I hate backing out, was getting risky.)
  16. Does anyone know if a bracket other than the windshield suction cup for a Garmin is out there. I have a Ford work truck and one fits in the console like it was made for it. My Sierra has nowhere in it to balance it. I hate putting it on the windshield.
  17. FS: Matte black grille OEM

    I have a matte black grille with black mesh for sale. I purchased this to swap out the black mesh with my chrome on my 2014 but this mesh does not unclip. It is one whole piece. Asking $80 and buyer pays for shipping. Please PM if interested or would like more pics! P/N listed on back of grill: 22757227 LTZ 22757223 WT1 23164154 WT2 EDIT: Dropped price!!!!
  18. All - I have for sale the Borla Cat Back Exhaust in Touring Edition just like what is listed on the Borla Site: PN 140535. I had this installed new from the factory, so it has the special exhaust tube with the expansion joint and bypass for V4 mode. The Touring is a fantastic rumble and growl... I would call it just the right amount of deep sound perfection. You won't believe how nice it sounds over factory exhaust until you try it. It is in great shape (almost like new) as you can see from the Pics, I polished the tips and the muffler to show you just how clean it really is. The rest of the tubes were left as is, since you will be installing it and getting it dirty anyway. I live in South GA for Pickup, 30 min north of Tallahassee. Price is $800 if I ship it, or $700 local pickup. Let me know if you have any questions ! Link to Hear the sound: https://www.borla.com/products/silverado_sierra_1500_catback_exhaust_touring_part__140535.html
  19. Well, seeing as how I can't find much on this subject no matter what forum I go to, why not try to start the discussion here and see what kind of following I can get and see where we end up. If you're reading this thread, chances are you have thought about modifying or swapping out your current transmission in your 2014+ GM truck. In my case, I don't mind my 6L80 in my truck. It does fine for what I do right now and it's holding up just fine, but I think the big issue is when you start to search for big power (like I'm starting to do), that 6L80 is not going to hold very much (or so we think). Now, let's all face it. We've seen posts after posts, comments after comments, photos, videos, etc. of guys with built motors with turbos or prochargers shooting down the quarter mile in search for the best time on these 6L80s. Some say they're completely stock, others have them built, and we all ask ourselves the same question: Reliability. How well are these transmissions going to hold up to the abuse on the track? Especially if you want to make it a fast street/strip truck and drive it back home to the garage afterwords. We know for a fact that 6L90s can hold quite a bit of power. Even though I've mostly seen it in Camaro ZL1 applications, there is a guy on YouTube (GuitarmaggedonZL1) who is running a stock 6L90 on stock converter making 1000HP (give or take on an unloaded dyno) and the transmission hasn't puked all over the ground just yet. (Exaggeration, I know.) So, needless to say, a 6L90 swap sounds nice, at first... After you figure the extra length and weight (and in my case, relocation of the transfer case and getting custom driveshafts made), it starts to look a bit unpromising, but still not out of the ball park yet since it will be able to handle the power some are seeking, but where these newer transmissions lack significantly if you want to do boosted applications at the track (or even just launch control on N/A), no one has developed a transbrake. Very, very few forums are talking about this, and only one video exists of a guy in his BMW testing out a transbrake on a 6L80/6L90, and who knows how reliable it is. So, now, you start to think: Well, gee. What can I do now? How about a TH400 or 4L80e swap? So far, I've seen few posts on that as well. No one is talking about it, and I think the biggest problem people seem to be facing is the new PCM: E92. Also possibly the fact that the TCM on the newer transmissions is inside the transmission and whatnot, but whether that plays a part in this, I don't know yet. Now, adapting a TH400 or 4L80e can be done (most likely with a different bellhousing since the bolt holes are in a slightly different spot), but you run into the issue of getting it to speak/cooperate/communicate with the new E92, which I don't think anyone has tried. The only video I've seen of anything working in this application was on a 1320Videos video with a Nova where they were using an LT4 long block (built motor to 388 C.I.) and twin turbos, and it had a powerglide in it. Don't know if it was a manual valve body or computer-controlled, but what I do know is that they used the factory computer to run the DI injection system and piggybacked the rest to an MS3 Pro. After dealing with some issues, they were able to make that thing boogy to a 9 second pass at 148mph. So, these engines have potential to haul ass, but we just haven't figured out how to crack the system. So, at this point, I'll just leave what I've discussed here and see where the thread goes from here, and I'm hoping people chime in and vendors are watching/listening. Even though the demand isn't hot for it right now, there's going to be a surge for good transmissions when people can buy these trucks/cars/motors/transmissions for pennies on the dollar. Unfortunately, I feel like we'll have to wait that long in order to see results, but oh well. Just to give you guys an example: In the next year or two (2019 or 2020), I'd like to go turbo with my truck. (Doing all the supporting mods before going there minus built bottom end until I see where I can get with stock bottom end before sending a rod through the block or oil pan) Ideally, it'd be best to have a transbrake in that application with 2-step, but can't do it on the new transmissions. So, 4L80 seems to be the option, but I can't do that either because no one supports adapters or harnesses to make them work with the new motors/ECUs. That's the boat I'm in. I like to research everything before I go whole hog into something. Risk assessment, I guess.
  20. Hello everyone, new guys here. I've had my 2014 Sierra 1500 SLE extended cab 4x4 for a few years now. I've done a few cosmetic upgrades, but nothing big. 2" leveling kit, plasti dip wheels and emblems plus some other minor projects. I'm getting new tires for the winter season coming up. I walked into discount tire and the guy took a look at the truck and suggested 285/70/18 size tires (I know very little about tires). My question is will they rub? I've seen a few posts on here talking about spacers and cutting. I'd like to avoid cutting at all costs. Thanks for the help
  21. Would like to know if I can turn off the seat belt chime. I wear the belt on the highway but around job sites It's a pain.
  22. Ok, so this is my first time posting here, and I'm really hoping to get some useful feedback as y'all are truck people like myself. I've owned my truck for the past year and a half, and only began noticing this issue after I serviced and changed all my oils (Transmission, and both diffs.) We're talking about a 2014 GMC Sierra 1500, 5.3l V8, SLT trim (if the trim matters). Here's what happens. On 2HI it runs great, no sound, smooth as silk, and transmission temp hovers at around 91 Celsius (195 Fahrenheit), and when I use to shift it to 4HI or 4LO, it rises up to MAX. 105 Celsius (around 220 Fahrenheit), and still smooth on the turning. Once I changed all my oils, suddenly there is a LOUD whining sound coming from beneath once I turn (not even sharp turns), its really sluggish, and the transmission does not take long to reach temperatures of 120-125 celcius (245-260 fahrenheit). I've already rechecked all the oils, and everything is clean and at a good level, there are no leaks, and I've used oils as per the owners manual. Any idea what I'm looking at, or what I should be checking? I do not want to blow useless money on monkeys clanking around in my truck for no reason.
  23. Hi folks, I have a 64 GB SDCard in my 2014 Silverado and I love having music, audiobooks and pocasts on this - especially for long road trips. I have edited the ID3 tags of the .mp3s for Audiobooks and Podcasts to show "Audiobook" and "Podcast" respectively for the "Genre" field. When I go to browse, they still don't show up under the Podcast or Audiobook categories (bottom of list under composer, artist, genre, etc). While I'm able to get "Audiobook" and "Podcast" to show up as a genre when browsing Genre, I'd like the audiobooks to show up under the audiobook category and podcasts to show up under podcasts. Does anyone know how to do this? If anyone is unsure what I mean, I'll try to upload a picture later of the "categories" of which I refer. Thanks! Gadgetman53
  24. Hi all, 1500 high country 20 inch chrome rims peeling around valve stem. 3 out of 4 are doing that. 20,000 kms on truck. GM said they would cover only 2 of them... Saw on forum that a guy w a GMC truck got all 4 replaced... Your thoughts?
  25. Hey i just picked up some 33x12.5R20s Haida Mud Champs for my 2014 gmc sierra all terrain. So I ordered a 2.5" RC leveling kits and ordered a 3" block with it too just in case it goes front end high. I would like to run mudflaps and save my paint. ✌ Hopefully someone has some pictures of some on a truck to get me going.
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