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Found 253 results

  1. Howdy folks, I have a 2015 Silverado 1500 LTZ that has an issue I have never seen. I am at 49,000 miles. This last weekend I drove to the airport and was away for 3 days. When I got back from my trip: I unlocked my truck, and as usual, all the courtesy lights come on. I got in and closed the doors, lights stayed on (specifically, the two dome lights by the sunglasses holder, and the two dome lights above the back seating area). Started it up, lights stayed on. Drove 45 miles home, lights stayed on the entire time. Pushing the buttons on the lights did nothing (could not turn them off manually). Parked in my driveway, turned the truck off, lights stayed on. Eventually they turned off (assumedly thanks to the battery rundown avoidance feature) This morning, got up to go to work and experienced the same thing (steps 1-5 above). I have found a number of forum posts from other forum sites regarding this issue, but they are all for older (pre-2014) trucks, and none of them had a solution anyway. I called my Chevy dealer service department and talked with someone there whom I trust and have been working with for 4 years now - he had no idea. Anyone here have any ideas? Fuses I should try and pull, etc? Thanks in advance.
  2. Winjet Taillights

    Selling these Winjet taillights from my '15 Silverado as I purchased a '17 Silverado and they already have LED. These are 6 months old in excellent condition. All parts come with except you will need 3M double-sided tape if you don't want to use the screws to mount. Units do NOT come with LED reverse lights, those are sold separately. Asking $225 + the ride to your door in original box. Stock Picture: Picture before boxing up: In use pictures:
  3. I have 2015 Sierra, Power steering went out while driving last Wednesday June 15th, towed to closest dealership. On-line recall GMC 14743 for Steering electronic power assist system. does not cover my VIN...anyone else have power steering issues?
  4. Hi, I just joined the forum and tried to search for information about my specific issue and came up empty, so I'm hoping someone may have info I could look into on this subject. I bought my 2015 Suburban LTZ (5.3L 2wd) about 6 months ago (used, with 50,000 miles on it... I know ;) ). It now has about 62,000. I purchased an extended "Bumper to bumper" warranty along with it. A few weeks ago my front end started bouncing when I would hit bumps or drive out of parking lots. Anytime I go over a bump, it oscillates over and over. I've experienced this before with older vehicles. Its clearly the shocks that are bad. When the vehicle is stopped, if I push down on the hood and let go, it goes up and down several times before stopping. Instead of the standard, down, up, middle, - that would be expected from good shocks. I took it to my local dealership where I purchased it. After a week of waiting for diagnosis, and approval from the warranty company... They call me to say the warranty company says they wont cover "shocks" only "struts". From the looks of things, these are coil over shocks. I get that. However, the GM Part number description says "Strut". So which is it?! The warranty doesn't cover parts designed to wear out, I understand that. However, they state they will cover Struts. Anyway, they are telling me, my shocks need replacement and because of the LTZ Magnetic Ride, it is an $1,800 job ...just the fronts! at 60,000 miles! I'm not sure I want to replace them again at 120k miles if they are that prone to failure, with a cost like that tied to it. It sounds like I'm stuck with what the warranty company wants to call "Shocks" so I'm on to just trying to figure out how to get a decent ride back so I don't have a potentially dangerous situation on my hands. My options, as I figure, are as follows: a.) Pay the $1800 and get it fixed and continue with the arguably stiff ride this 'improved suspension' system gives. b.) Make some noise with the warranty company, waste some time, and probably wind up needing to pay out of pocket anyway. c.) Find a set of good after market shocks, and put them in. Then find out if the Magnetic ride system can be disabled (or if it even needs to be). I don't want to have a dash light on or any other issues if I just swap out the shocks on the front only (for now). I would even do a leveling kit if it came with new shocks. But I just don't want any suprizes by putting shocks on then finding out the system can't be bypassed or something. Does anyone have any experience removing the Magnetic Ride shocks and replacing them with Bilstein shocks or some other aftermarket brand? I look forward to any input anyone can give. I'm leaning hard on option c.) just because I've got a real sour taste in my mouth about this relatively new truck, that I love, giving me such huge expenditure so early on, especially on a component that is the subject of such controversy. I hardly see this magnetic ride as an improvement in ride quality, or lifespan. So I'm not sure where the improvement is.
  5. Hello all. I am about to purchase a new vehicle and am considering a 2014-2016 silverado 1500. Im wondering if anyone here has any of these years that has put a lot of kms on it. I wondering how reliable they are and what problems if any you have ran into with them. The reason I'm asking is because I purchased a subscription to Consumer Reports and Reliability was only a 2/5 and overall satisfaction was a 3/5. I just paid off a 2011 F150 a year ago and now it has a stretched timing chain @ 140k. I really don't want to buy a piece of shit again. Also, the dealership gave me a 2014 1500 to try out for a few days and i really loved the truck except for one thing. In comparison to my F150 it was an extremely rough ride. It seems like every dam bump on the highway was pretty jarring. Even my lady friend noticed it clearly and she doesn't give a shit about anything when it comes to vehicles. I've heard gm/chevy ride a little stiffer but this seemed pretty bad. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  6. After driving my Silverado for a little over a year now, and having driven a few rental cars inbetween, i have realized that there is one very subtle feature that I love about my truck. With so many vehicles now using electronic cruise control, and not the old mechanical switch and buttons GM used to have, it is common for the owner to have to turn Cruise Control back on every time the engine turns off. I use my cruise control constantly, and i mean constantly (lowest it will let me set at is 24 MPH, if i could use it at 20, i would). BUT, every time i turn my truck off, and turn it back on, cruise remains on!!! I don't know if this is unique to chevy right now, but ive driven a lot of rentals recently that the cruise needs to be turned back on every time i get in it, and i find myself turning it on and off constantly because i dont remember if its on. So thank you, GM, for leaving my cruise control on and not turning it off when i didn't ask you to.
  7. So after the free oil changes I realized it would take at least an hour or a little more to get oil changed for 80$ Even with appointment. And each oil change the dip stick would say its 1qt overfilled. so I decided to start changing the oil myself. And In doing this I learned a big lesson late in life. make sure the damn o-ring is still in the old filter! This has never happend to me ever! Embarrassing as heck! Oil everywhere, luckily I was out by the old shed and not on my concrete. Had to clean up my toxic waste and now somehow clean the bottom of my truck. So even after all that I'm still changing my own oil from here on out. another thing I learned is that after 5k the oil filter gets really hard to get off. The old filter Deforms from trying to break it free it get so tight. i use dexos o- 20w.
  8. Hello. I have a 2015 Sierra denali. And want more than anything for the all terrain grill. Just can’t fjnd one unless I want to get one painted and everything. My truck is on the left. The grill I want is in the right. And I know. The blue isn’t that common
  9. Hello, I recently installed OEM Chevrolet black bowties on my 2016 Silverado. Though I was unable to make a video recording the process, I did find a lot of shortcuts along the way that may be helpful to others. Below is a guide of how to do the swap yourself. -------------------------------------------------- ***Front Bowtie Removal/Install (30 min or less, 10 if you know what to look for):*** - To remove the front bowtie, Chevrolet recommends that you remove the entire front grille assembly. however, I found this is not necessary. If you lay underneath the front of the truck, you will see a plastic cover that fills the gap between the front bumper and the frame to cover the bottom side of the radiator from debris. - There are three (3) plastic body molding/trim molding connectors that will need to be removed (one in the center and one to either side about 18 inches out). I found the best way to do this was with a short bladed flat head screw driver and both hands. Simply put, force will coerce the pins out of their plug holders. - Once those are removed you will be able to stick your arm through the underside of the radiator protector and feel the four (4) tabs and two (2) pins that hold the front emblem to the grille. - To remove the emblem, I used a key (spare, cheap one) to push the tabs outward from the center while pushing away from the front with my hand to pop the tab out of the clip area. I suggest starting from one side and making your way to the other. This did take slightly more force than I expected, so do not be afraid to push outward and away from the grille. - Once all 4 tabs are free, you should be able to get out from under the front and remove the emblem completely from the front of the grille. - The new, black bowtie, should snap right in!!! No glue or tape needed! **The 2016 Silverado 1500 uses a different front emblem than the 14 or 15 models, make sure you purchase the proper emblems for your truck!!! ---------------------------------------- ***Rear Bowtie Removal/Install (1 hour or so, if done right):*** - First, gather the necessary tools to complete the job: Hair dryer or Heat gun, 2 microfiber towels, WD40, Goo B Gone, Fishing line (I used 50LB line, right size and strength, but you can used the guts of parachute cord and i have heard of dental floss, but that seemed silly), isopropyl alcohol, water, painters tape, plastic scraping blade/tool, small amount of gasoline (explained later) - Using the painters tape, outline the emblem on all 4 sides, careful to follow all the edges as close as possible. This will stay there until the new emblem is placed, serving as your guide lines. - Disclosure: I removed the back emblem on a 93 degree day, my truck is dark colored, and I used a hair dryer. Other conditions may require longer heating time. Heat the emblem to soften the adhesive backing on the emblem making it easier to remove (yes this actually makes it easier). Use your own judgment, heat until you think it is ready, just don't overheat. - Using the fishing line (or whatever you have), begin at one corner and slice through the backing. I would do an inch or so at a time and then reheat the nest area I was removing. This process took about 7-10 minutes to get off completely. - If you are lucky (like hit the lottery lucky), the adhesive backing will come off with the emblem, and there will not be much left on the tailgate. But, if yours is anything like mine, the adhesive will be stuck on the tailgate. spray this with WD40 and/or Goo B Gone, allow to soak momentarily, and use the scraping tool to remove the thickest parts of the adhesive back. There will be leftover glue on the tailgate. - You can play around with WD40/Goo B Gone to get the rest off, or you can be like me and take it off in seconds. This is where that gasoline comes into play. Using one of your microfiber towels, apply a liberal amount of gas and the glue should come right off. This should not harm the paint at all, as long as you clean it off within a day. - Now that you have the glue and adhesive backing removed, you need to sterilize the area to put the new emblem on. Mix a one to one mixture of the rubbing alcohol and water. Using the other microfiber towel, wipe the area clean. The alcohol will dissolve the WD40 and Goo B Gone and anything else that would prevent good adhesion. Clean until you are satisfied. - The area should be ready to be fitted with the new emblem now. I would perform some dryfits, with the adhesive backing cover still on so that you get a feel for where it should go. Then, remove the film, and slowly and carefully place the new emblem. Make sure and press firmly once positioned to ensure good adhesion. - Step back and admire your work. ------------------------------------------------------------------ Here are some pictures of my success! (I also added the OEM GM backup camera that my truck did not come with. If you need one like I did, I can tell you about that process too! I have a big hitch on, and backing into every spot, since I hate backing out, was getting risky.)
  10. So I have a 2015 Silverado. I’ve put a 2.5” leveling kit on it, 285/70/17 tires and American racing Baja wheels. Since leveling it anything I put any considerable amount of weight in the back it squats more than I’d like so after some research and a buddy having the firestone riderite airbags I’ve decided to go with them as well. My question I have is, where is the best location for the compressor? Any tips and advice is greatly appreciated.
  11. I’m sure this is already here somewhere but I didn’t see anything recent on this specific question. Does anyone have any recommendations on swapping out the headlights on a 2015 Sierra 1500 SLT? I feel like a flashlight would give me better light down road than the junk stock lights. From what I’ve read the stock projectors suck. What did y’all end up doing to make your lights actually useful at night? Complete new housing, HID conversions, LED conversion? Thanks in advance! -Zach
  12. Will 2015 GMC Sierra taillights fit my 2015 Silverado both 1500 model. I liked a pair of Sierra taillights better and I found some for a better price and I was wondering if they would fit? Thanks
  13. I got a used truck back in September with a lucky 17500 miles on it when I got it. So low miles compared to the 28000 miles on the Subaru Crosstrek I traded for the truck even though they were the same year. I got the truck to tow my new travel trailer that I am full time living in as I create a business to travel the country to see what is out there. Tired of the office life. I got the gas version and know a diesel is better but the smell of the exhaust gives me migraines and I don't know how to fix them. So I purposely went for the gas truck. The travel trailer I have is only 8000lbs GVWR so I am well under the max towing of the truck. I look forward to doing some research here and looking into upgrades or changes that might fit my needs. Tim
  14. FS: Matte black grille OEM

    I have a matte black grille with black mesh for sale. I purchased this to swap out the black mesh with my chrome on my 2014 but this mesh does not unclip. It is one whole piece. Asking $80 and buyer pays for shipping. Please PM if interested or would like more pics! P/N listed on back of grill: 22757227 LTZ 22757223 WT1 23164154 WT2 EDIT: Dropped price!!!!
  15. All - I have for sale the Borla Cat Back Exhaust in Touring Edition just like what is listed on the Borla Site: PN 140535. I had this installed new from the factory, so it has the special exhaust tube with the expansion joint and bypass for V4 mode. The Touring is a fantastic rumble and growl... I would call it just the right amount of deep sound perfection. You won't believe how nice it sounds over factory exhaust until you try it. It is in great shape (almost like new) as you can see from the Pics, I polished the tips and the muffler to show you just how clean it really is. The rest of the tubes were left as is, since you will be installing it and getting it dirty anyway. I live in South GA for Pickup, 30 min north of Tallahassee. Price is $800 if I ship it, or $700 local pickup. Let me know if you have any questions ! Link to Hear the sound: https://www.borla.com/products/silverado_sierra_1500_catback_exhaust_touring_part__140535.html
  16. Well, seeing as how I can't find much on this subject no matter what forum I go to, why not try to start the discussion here and see what kind of following I can get and see where we end up. If you're reading this thread, chances are you have thought about modifying or swapping out your current transmission in your 2014+ GM truck. In my case, I don't mind my 6L80 in my truck. It does fine for what I do right now and it's holding up just fine, but I think the big issue is when you start to search for big power (like I'm starting to do), that 6L80 is not going to hold very much (or so we think). Now, let's all face it. We've seen posts after posts, comments after comments, photos, videos, etc. of guys with built motors with turbos or prochargers shooting down the quarter mile in search for the best time on these 6L80s. Some say they're completely stock, others have them built, and we all ask ourselves the same question: Reliability. How well are these transmissions going to hold up to the abuse on the track? Especially if you want to make it a fast street/strip truck and drive it back home to the garage afterwords. We know for a fact that 6L90s can hold quite a bit of power. Even though I've mostly seen it in Camaro ZL1 applications, there is a guy on YouTube (GuitarmaggedonZL1) who is running a stock 6L90 on stock converter making 1000HP (give or take on an unloaded dyno) and the transmission hasn't puked all over the ground just yet. (Exaggeration, I know.) So, needless to say, a 6L90 swap sounds nice, at first... After you figure the extra length and weight (and in my case, relocation of the transfer case and getting custom driveshafts made), it starts to look a bit unpromising, but still not out of the ball park yet since it will be able to handle the power some are seeking, but where these newer transmissions lack significantly if you want to do boosted applications at the track (or even just launch control on N/A), no one has developed a transbrake. Very, very few forums are talking about this, and only one video exists of a guy in his BMW testing out a transbrake on a 6L80/6L90, and who knows how reliable it is. So, now, you start to think: Well, gee. What can I do now? How about a TH400 or 4L80e swap? So far, I've seen few posts on that as well. No one is talking about it, and I think the biggest problem people seem to be facing is the new PCM: E92. Also possibly the fact that the TCM on the newer transmissions is inside the transmission and whatnot, but whether that plays a part in this, I don't know yet. Now, adapting a TH400 or 4L80e can be done (most likely with a different bellhousing since the bolt holes are in a slightly different spot), but you run into the issue of getting it to speak/cooperate/communicate with the new E92, which I don't think anyone has tried. The only video I've seen of anything working in this application was on a 1320Videos video with a Nova where they were using an LT4 long block (built motor to 388 C.I.) and twin turbos, and it had a powerglide in it. Don't know if it was a manual valve body or computer-controlled, but what I do know is that they used the factory computer to run the DI injection system and piggybacked the rest to an MS3 Pro. After dealing with some issues, they were able to make that thing boogy to a 9 second pass at 148mph. So, these engines have potential to haul ass, but we just haven't figured out how to crack the system. So, at this point, I'll just leave what I've discussed here and see where the thread goes from here, and I'm hoping people chime in and vendors are watching/listening. Even though the demand isn't hot for it right now, there's going to be a surge for good transmissions when people can buy these trucks/cars/motors/transmissions for pennies on the dollar. Unfortunately, I feel like we'll have to wait that long in order to see results, but oh well. Just to give you guys an example: In the next year or two (2019 or 2020), I'd like to go turbo with my truck. (Doing all the supporting mods before going there minus built bottom end until I see where I can get with stock bottom end before sending a rod through the block or oil pan) Ideally, it'd be best to have a transbrake in that application with 2-step, but can't do it on the new transmissions. So, 4L80 seems to be the option, but I can't do that either because no one supports adapters or harnesses to make them work with the new motors/ECUs. That's the boat I'm in. I like to research everything before I go whole hog into something. Risk assessment, I guess.
  17. 2015 Silverado Regular cab with 4.3 V6. Has just under 14,000 miles. The other day after work I drove to the store and was gone for about 15 min. I kept my phone plugged into the charger. Came out, started the truck and it acted like it was gasping for fuel. Almost like starting up an old lawn mower. It then started surging a few times until I hit the gas and gave it some real juice. Then it became normal. This has only happened one time but it scared me. The only thing different I've been doing lately is running E85 fuel. On my 3rd tank of E85. Temperature has been in the high 50s to mid 60s. So not sure. Any input? Was just inspected and had synthetic oil change two weeks ago.
  18. I've been browsing the forums for some time, joined today to ask a few technical questions I haven't found the answer to. I have a 2015 LT Z71 Silverado RCSB, and I'm going to add a 6" lift kit and 35" tires. I've built up my old Jeep over the years, and I remember the short wheelbase TJ having an issue with the driveshaft angles if you went over 3" or so. This got me thinking about the 6" lift on a single cab, as opposed to the crew cab everyone seems to have (longer wheelbase = longer driveshaft, and vice versa). Any differences? 1) Anyone heard of driveline issues with a 6" lift on a short(er) wheelbase regular cab short bed? 2)As far as parts, I'm going with BDS for the lift, reusing my factory 17x8 wheels with 1.5" spacers, and BFG for a set of 35's 3)I'm thinking Diablo for the tuner; I'll probably just get a 'canned' tune and upgrade from there at a later date - Mainly looking to correct the speedometer 4)A friend recommended Spider Lock spacers, any feedback or info on that? Always ran aftermarket wheels on the Jeep so I've never used spacers. Anything else I should be aware of with these trucks and modifications? From what I've read BDS corrects most of the angles on an IFS lift and is top quality with a great warranty. I know my Jeep inside and out, but I'm new to IFS (used to having a solid axle in the front), and definitely not used to all of the automatic systems and electronics, haha. Any assistance or input would be appreciated!
  19. I am having issues with my brand new 2015 GMC Yukon Denali. I was so excited to get this new car. It had a leak in the back right rear window from the start. They had to replace the entire headliner in the interior. Now I've got a shiver when in idle both in gear and out of gear. It feels like the car needs more gas. I've taken it into the shop 3 times now. The service department, after listening to my complaint and acknowledging the shiver, ultimately states that the car is "operating as designed". I've test driven a 6.2 liter Denali that does not have this issue. They've stone-walled me at GM, essentially saying they can't fix a problem that doesn't exist. Has anyone else had this issue? You would think that a brand new car wouldn't have this issue, and that they could do something to fix a rough idle. I'm beyond frustrated. I'd love to hear if anyone has the same problem.
  20. All installed the Stampede Original Riderz texture 8626-5 fender flares. Instructions not the best, no videos from manufacturer. However, I am very pleased with the fit and finish. The truck looks great and im sold. I will be contacting their customer service to give them feedback. My next search is for Mud flaps to go with the flares. I hoping I can use the Husky flaps. Attached before and after pics G
  21. All - I have for sale the Borla Cat Back Exhaust in Touring Edition: PN 140535 on the Borla website. I had this installed new from the factory, the Touring is a fantastic, rumble... I would call it just the right amount of deep sound. You won't believe how nice it sounds over factory exhaust until you try it. It is in great shape (almost like new) as you can see from the Pics, I polished the tips and the muffler to show you just how clean it really is. The rest of the tubes were left as is, since you will be installing it and getting it dirty anyway. I live in South GA for Pickup, 30 min north of Tallahassee. Price is $800 if I ship it, or $700 local pickup. Let me know if you have any questions ! Link to Hear the sound: https://www.borla.com/products/silverado_sierra_1500_catback_exhaust_touring_part__140535.html
  22. Hello, I've read a lot of threads on different GM vehicles from Cruze to Silverados. One of my buddies have a 2015 2500HD Silverado with the 8" MyLink infotainment system. He reported about a month ago his system just went to a black screen, he could hear his music fine, press different areas of the screen and it would accept input (still black screen) From a bunch of reading, I had him check the ground between the windshield and A-pillar and it seemed find with no pinch of insulation. He eventually bought a new touchscreen but it did the same thing. Which leads me to believe nothing was wrong w the other screen either. If I had to guess it would be the HMI module? We have no dealerships here in Central America. What was the "fix" for this? We also tried pulling the fuse and it does nothing. We also disconnected the Touch screen from the module and it worked for maybe an hour and it went back black. Any help is appreciated. I really hope this does not happen to my High Country. Thanks, Keagan
  23. Hey Guys, After lurking on the forums and finding nothing on how to install a roof tent onto our trucks; I decided to take the plunge and see what it would take to get this done. As these style of tents are up there in pricing, (even more so for those of us in Canada), I didn't want to deal spending money excessively on rack systems that wouldn't be compatible with the tent, so I spoke directly with Smittybilt to see what they would recommend for mounting the tent on our trucks. At first I was considering using one of their contractor ladder racks as they were rated for 1000lbs and offered the ability to mount additional accessories such as light bars, tools and etc. however, their tech-line representative stated that the contractor racks would not only be too wide to properly secure tent but would be limited to having only one position of how the tent opens provided I found or made the appropriate brackets to make it work. Since I was already going into reasonably uncharted territory, I wanted to take the simpler route that even the entry level novice would be comfortable installing using regular household tools with a buddy or two. This led me to the TracRac ladder rack system - as every tent and roof related accessory supplier has led me to believe our roofs aren't rated for carrying weight in general - since it installs in the bed and has cross rails to mount additional items on the sides. In the interest of not making this post redundant, as both kits have fairly reasonable supplied instructions, I will note the key aspects and tips for installation. Installation was performed on: 2015 Sierra 1500 crew with 5’8” box Part numbers used: 1x TracRac 37002 1x Smittybilt 2783 4x 773680 -5” zinc bracket Home Depot Additional tools: 7/32 Allen key and/or Socket 3/16 Allen key and/or Socket Tape measure - preferably one that reads in inches Drill and drill kit Dust pan and brush or vaccum 1-2 additional sets of hands Assemble TracRac: https://c2.rt-static.com/shared/pdf/manufacturers/297/tracrac-pro2.pdf I found it easier to mount the posts first then worry about attaching the crossbars afterwards. The clamps supplied from TracRac are drilled on both sides and the instructions will not make it clear which side is the top or bottom. They are also lined with paint on the inside so before installing the clamps it is a good idea feed the recommended screws into the clamp a few times beforehand just to make it easier to install. The side that forms an inner ridge is the side that goes on top. This will go into the groove found on the posts. The Smittybilt tent has a 47" x57" spread, so be sure to make sure the distance between the front and rear bars posts is around 3.5FT to 3.75FT, this will allow you ample space to properly position the tent onto the bars. The supplied instructions state that for the front the required spacing between clamps must be at least 3” apart, and for the rear 7” apart. I chose to have both the front and rear to have the same spacing since I do not plan on mounting a tool box in the bed of the truck. Once the posts have installed measure lengths of the cross bars to be equally spaced out from the posts as best you can. So that they are evenly placed. I did not install the supplied tie downs on the crossbars yet as I wanted to make sure the roof tent will fit correctly before installing them.
  24. Is there a cheap way to upgrade existing mylink with one that has apple car play? All of the ways I've seen are over $1000.
  25. Problem: Truck while in 2 wheel drive will sporadically and temporarily tug briefly to the right causing a noticeable pull in the steering wheel to the right. It is only noticed between the speeds of approximately 40-50 MPH. There may be tugs at lower speeds but it is too small to be certain. The tugs do not occur over 50 MPH. The issue cannot be reproduced by the driver. There can be one tug or two to three sequential tugs. The vehicle is problem free prior and after the tugs. The force of the tugs can be mild, moderate or heavy. The tugs are noticed daily closer to the 42 MPH and 50 MPH marks in higher gear while coasting without acceleration or deceleration. For example, truck is accelerated to the 40-50 MPH range and acceleration is softened to allow for coasting in that speed range; the transmission will typically be in a lower gear, higher rpm, for a few moments until it up-shifts to the next higher gear and lower coasting rpm; the sporadic tugs are typically noticed in the lower gear, higher rpm range (1650). It seems that maybe the tugs are more prevalent during the first 5 to 10 minutes of operation from a sitting, parked position (cold engine or hot engine is irrelevant, it appears). Weather and pavement conditions do not affect the problem. Truck tracks straight when not tugging to the right. Problem started around 24,000 to 25,000 miles. Vehicle: 2015 Chevy Silverado, 2500 HD, WT, 6.0L Gas, manual 4x4, dual cab, long bed, tow package, plow package with 26,000 miles currently. Troubleshooting done so far by dealer: (1) corrective alignment; (1) alignment check after corrective alignment; tire rotation; swapping the two tires in front right to left; suspension check; front brake removal, check and lubrication. The dealer is currently stumped. Summary: Dealer has checked for radial pull, mis-alignment, tire pressure and brake issues. The closest guess that I have is from someone else's thread of: passenger side CV shaft going bad. They had what appeared to be the same tugging issues and the CV shaft did not give the tell-tale audible noises of failure. Their passenger side CV shaft just went bad, they changed it and posted that problem was mostly likely solved. I don't know though. Any thoughts??
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